Vietnam: Modernity Meets Ancient Tradition
In November 2017, I embarked on a nine-day solo travel through Vietnam. My itinerary was split between two cities, in addition to nearby regional attractions. I had been meaning to visit Vietnam when I had visited Southeast Asia on a previous trip that included Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. However, I did not have enough time as Vietnam is a large (or long) country with tons of interesting destinations from North to South. At the time, entry into Vietnam also required specific visa procedures (visa on arrival upon prior authorization), which required prior planning.
Halong Bay, a Natural Wonder in the World, is Called ‘The Descending Dragon’ in Vietnamese
Hanoi: Bustling Capital with Great Day Trip Options
I flew into Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital city, from Dubai at the time on a direct flight via Emirates, the journey took over nine hours since Vietnam is situated on the easternmost tip of continental Asia. At the time, my visa processing took about 3 business days. I had to fill out a form online and receive an authorization, which was then stamped as a single-entry visitor’s visa on my passport (usually between 30 and 90 days). All in all, my visit was 9 days in total, split almost evenly between northern and central Vietnam.
My plan was to experience attractions within Hanoi, as well as venture out into nearby spots (including Halong Bay and Ninh Binh). I booked three nights in Hanoi and one night in Ninh Binh. If I had more time, I would have visited the Sapa region in the far north via the famous sleeper train. However, that trip would have required me to add at least three extra days.
I stayed at The Lapis Hotel in Hanoi’s elegant French Quarter. The service at the hotel was exceptional and my room was beautifully decorated with old-school charm, with a balcony with a view perfect for morning coffee for a nightly rate of about 80 USD. Coffee is a big part of local culture, it is often enjoyed ice cold or brewed using a special drip technique, with condensed milk added at the end. The Lapis Hotel also has a small pool on the rooftop, but as we were already in November, the weather was not very suitable for swimming. In the cooler months of winter, it is recommended to wear a light jacket as temperatures can drop as low as 14 degrees Celsius at night.
As a key city of then French Indochina, French influence has lingered on throughout the city’s architecture and cuisine. It is within walking distance to the Hanoi opera as well as unique and upscale shoe and clothing stores. Vietnam is famous for its shoe craftsmanship, so make sure to stock up when you visit. Here you can find shoes in genuine leather, often handmade and in a range of classic and modern styles for less than half of what they would cost at western-style retailers (usually 100 USD and under).
The local currency is the Vietnamese Dong and unlike neighboring Laos and Cambodia, dollar bank notes are not accepted by venders. You can exchange each dollar for about 24,000 Dong. Some blogs also suggested using ATMs to withdraw cash in Vietnamese Dong for a better exchange rate. Either way, make sure to have cash on hand since cards are not accepted in many places. Vietnam is one of the most affordable destinations I have visited, so anywhere between 50 and 100 USD for daily expenses will go a long way.
Language barrier was the most recurring obstacle that I faced in Hanoi. At the time, there were no ride apps available and you are bound to get scammed when taking taxis. It is highly recommended to have your destination written down for taxi drivers, and ask your hotel to call a taxi whenever possible to ensure service with a reliable company.
Hanoi is also a city of over eight million residents and is a bustling metropolis. Visitors will instantly notice the sheer number of motorcycles roaming the city streets. Crossing the street is a challenge while surrounded by motorcyclists who mostly disregard traffic lights, but with courage and practice, one can easily get used to crossing the street in Hanoi.
Hanoi’s most famous landmark is Huan Kiem lake, which is beautifully illuminated by the Huc Bridge at night (as well as Turtle Tower right in the middle of West Lake) and includes a busy promenade in the city’s center. It is a favorite pastime activity for local residents and tourists alike, and is within walking distance to Hanoi’s lively pub street in the Old Quarter.
When at Beer Street, there are hundreds of little hole-in-the wall type eating and drinking establishments there that line both sides of narrow alleys. What’s remarkable is the tiny, low stools that customers sit on. The official curfew is quite early, so the stools can be easily put inside if there’s a police raid, and then back outside to continue the party once the patrol is gone. There is also a night market within walking distance, but I found most of the items sold there to be knock-offs and not of great quality. Still, it is a good place to experience the busy city streets at night.
After exploring Hanoi’s nightlife on arrival, I was looking forward to the next day’s trip. I booked a tour with the hotel for the following day to visit Vietnam’s most famous natural wonder: Halong Bay. The journey from Hanoi to Halong Bay took approximately three hours by bus. Afterwards, we were taken to a yacht for our day cruise and lunch. Halong Bay is a series of limestone islands in the middle of the Gulf of Tonkin. The tall structures are adorned with green vegetation and the water is emerald green in color. The site has been the location of many movies and really does offer magnificent views reminiscent of a travel postcard.
We also got to take smaller boats along the view that took us right inside the limestone structures and into secluded lakes, in addition to a massive grotto with lighting effects decorating the stalactites and stalagmites. It is no wonder that Halong Bay is Vietnam’s most popular tourist destination. The journey to and from the hotel was very long. Upon return to my hotel, I visited the Nha Hang Ngon restaurant across the street (one of the city’s most popular) and had an early night.
In addition to exploring the city’s main attractions, I had used Hanoi as a base to explore the nearby countryside. The following day, I joined my tour group for Ninh Binh, where I was to stay the night and return to Hanoi the next day.
Ninh Binh province is about two hours away from Hanoi. It epitomizes the Vietnamese countryside with its lush green rice fields, temples and wetlands. The first stop on my tour was a visit to the Bai Dinh Buddhist temple complex, with a mix of old temples and newer temples surrounded by imperial-scale gardens. While Vietnam is officially an atheist country and does not have as many temples as Thailand on guidebooks, traditions do persist. Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism (in addition to Christianity and folk religion) are practiced in Vietnam, and that is evident in the mix of its architectural influences.
The next stop on the trip was through the wetlands and waterways of the nearby Trang An town, where we took a boat trip throughout the waterways of the Sao Khe River. The area is lush with vegetation and has some of quaint temples; one of which was situated right in the middle of the river and had a live performance at the time, just as we were passing by on the boat. In the evening, I was dropped off at The Reed Hotel, which I had booked for the night. It was relatively new at the time, and had very few visitors.
The next day, I headed back to Hanoi for my final day there. My itinerary included a visit to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. Ho Chi Minh is modern Vietnam’s most revered leader and is seen as the figure behind the liberation and unification of the country. His devotion to communism is clearly visible in the architecture of the mausoleum that was built for him. Surrounded by a large square with daily military processions, Ho Chi Minh’s final resting place is a striking example of Soviet-style architecture. Built when he passed away in 1969, Hanoi’s mausoleum is inspired by Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow with its rectangular shape and large grey granite columns. Inside lies General Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body, but photography is strictly prohibited.
Souvenir Shopping in Hanoi
Afterwards, I visited Hang Gai for more souvenir shopping. Vietnam is famous for its silk, and there are many beautiful silk garments and accessories for men and women in traditional or modern styles. The prices are very reasonable, and if you want to buy silk items then Hang Gai Street is definitely the best place to shop. Additionally, there are many beautiful home décor accessories from hand-painted lacquerware to porcelain and silk lanterns. The district has many souvenir and artisanal shops, alongside beautiful and exclusive art galleries.
A peculiar thing I noticed was how long and narrow Vietnamese houses were. I didn’t get the chance to visit Vietnamese homes, but one thing I noticed about the small family-run shop is that some had an altar, complete with photos of passed family members, vases, incense and even fresh fruit and fake money bills to bring good luck. One shop that I visited even had a shoes-off policy, which I found very unusual.
Vietnamese food is renowned internationally. It varies by region, and has been strongly influenced by neighboring countries and the French colonial era. Sweet and sour are key flavors, with fish sauce and lemongrass as recurring ingredients. A signature Vietnamese dish associated with the north is Pho, an aromatic Vietnamese noodle soup with a rich bone broth and beef slices. Fresh herbs are added at the end as garnish. In Ninh Binh, mountain goat is a specialty dish, grilled and topped with ginger and basil. My personal favourite, and a dish I often made at home is the crispy papaya salad in sesame oil and lime juice, topped with peanuts, beansprouts and a generous amount of chopped red chillies. Further south, Banh Min a meat and vegetable sub that has become a local favourite after the French brought the baguette to Vietnam.
Hanoi is a city that has retained its heritage over centuries over centuries and has endured feudalism, European colonization and subsequent Japanese invasion prior to a decade-long conflict with the United States. When the war ended, the north and south were unified under one communist government. While technically still a communist country, Vietnam’s economy grew rapidly in the 2000s, with a sizeable urban middle class. When in Hanoi, one can experience both, the traditional and modern side of Vietnam’s booming capital city.
There exists a rivalry between Hanoi, the administrative capital and Ho Chi Minh City (endearingly known as ‘Saigon’), the commercial capital in the south. The latter is often described as being more modern and prosperous, with Hanoi being more attractive to visitors seeking to discover a more cultural and traditional side to Vietnam. Nonetheless, both are a great example of a bustling Asian metropolis that effortlessly blends the future with the past.
In contrast to the silk and lacquerware-filled shops of Hang Gai, there are many modern districts with skyscrapers, large shopping malls with international luxury brands. The Lotte Tower is one of the tallest buildings and business centers in Hanoi. It features a popular rooftop where tourists, expats and locals can enjoy premium cocktails over sunset with a view over the expansive cityscapes and increasingly modernizing metropolis. Rooftop pubs are a big trend in Vietnam’s cities and offer a chance to escape the hustle and bustle of the streets which are obstructed by traffic and millions of motorcyclists.
Hoi An: The City of Tailors and Lanterns
The next morning, I took a Vietjet flight to Da Nang, Central Vietnam’s largest city famous among tourists for its beach resorts and access to the nearby historical town of Hoi An. Vietnam is a long and very skinny country. There is a train service connecting the north with the south, and many bus companies offering overnight sleeper bus services when travelling between the major cities if you wish to discover Vietnam at a leisurely pace. I chose to fly in order to save time. Plus, my return air ticket was only the 70 USD range.
Hoi An is One of the Most Beautiful Heritage Towns of Southeast Asia
I booked a private transfer online from Da Nang Airport to Hoi An. After a twenty-minute scenic drive down Da Nang’s beach and through the dragon-shaped, I arrived at the Lasenta Boutique Hotel. While the hotel does not have direct access to the beach, it offers a very comfortable stay and great spa service, and is elegantly decorated with a swimming pool overlooking the nearby rice paddies. Central Vietnam is warmer than the north, so you can swim all year round. The Vietnamese are famous for being the best nail aestheticians locally and internationally. In fact, over 70% of all nail salons in North America are owned by people of Vietnamese descent. You can book a few hours at a spa, with mani-pedi and a full-body massage for as low as 40 USD.
My three-night stay in Hoi An did not include any long daytrips and was mostly focused on exploring this magical ancient town by foot, with a quick trip to Da Nang to see the Cham Museums, famous for its prehistoric sculptures. Da Nang is one of Vietnam’s largest cities, with a population of over 1 million. It grew rapidly as the US military base was set up there during the years of war. It is a relatively modern city famous for the dragon-shaped Da Nang bridge and its long stretch of beaches and glitzy resorts. Hoi An, which is only 20 minutes away by car, is a much more exciting place to stay if you want to experience more history and culture.
The town of Hoi An is famous for its tailors. Many visitors can have suits and dresses custom made and received within a day’s time. Tailors and clothing boutique can be found on every street corner in Hoi An. The city dates back to the imperial period, with an old quarter that is small enough to explore by walking. Highlights include the Japanese bridge (constructed in the 18th century) and a set of small houses and shophouses that have been converted into museums for their historical significance. You can buy a day pass to visit all the historic sites within Hoi An’s old town.
Hoi An is decorated by numerous fabric lanterns of all colors and is often referred to as “The City of Lanterns”. Nightlife options are centered on small wine bars and restaurants. I spent most of my time in Hoi An walking within the old quarter’s narrow streets and soaking in the town’s relaxing and uplifting energy. You can also take a river cruise in the evening to witness a spectacle of lights as the hanging lanterns project beautifully across the heritage buildings and into the water. Lanterns are the perfect souvenir to bring back home from Vietnam and can be found in different colors and designs throughout the city’s artisanal shops.
Just as I was about to head back for Hanoi for my layover night in Vietnam before leaving, the rainy season started in Hoi An, which caused major floods and evacuations and had many businesses most to-visit lists for any Vietnam itinerary.
On my next trip to Vietnam, I am hoping to spend more time traveling the country by train, and particularly to get to know Saigon and the southern region.
A Lantern Shop in Hoi An
Vietnam Pros:
Cost effective
Perfect for lovers of art and souvenir shopping
Great cuisine
Friendly people
Vietnam Cons:
Distances between cities and destinations can be long and require internal flights
English is not widely spoken, so expect language barriers
