9 Days, 3 Countries, 4 Cities: Thailand, Cambodia and Laos
I was visiting in late June, and it was very hot throughout the day. In June, the temperature can go up to 38 degrees Celsius. While the weather may be uncomfortably hot at first, one of the perks of traveling in off-season is being able to save on hotels.
In June 2017, I took a big birthday trip to Southeast Asia. It was my first time in the region since I had celebrated the 2000 New Year in Malaysia with family. I had also been very keen on seeing the temples of Angkor. I decided to squeeze in as much as possible with nearby destinations for a 9-day trip.
These places in Southeast Asia are often referred to as the ‘Backpacker Trail’. They are often the first countries that backpackers visit when developing their solo travel skills due to ease of travel, safety and budget-friendliness.
Bangkok: Gateway into Southeast Asia
At the time of my visit, I was living in the Emirates. I flew from Dubai and arrived in Bangkok, my hub for flights. Given that I had a lot of cultural activities squeezed into my itinerary, I decided to spend only 2 nights in Bangkok (mainly for shopping) and focus more on the northern Thai city of Chang Mai.
Bangkok, the capital of Thailand (also known as the ‘Land of Smiles’), is an enormous city. Thailand is a monarchy of 70 million, with over 11 million inhabitants calling Bangkok home. Bangkok is visited by over 20 million international tourists a year, almost twice its actually population. It often ranks as the most visited tourism destination in the world. Despite its importance on the global business and tourism map, English is spoken by very few in Bangkok. Always make sure that your destination is written in the local Thai script when taking taxis because language barrier is a setback that visitors face.
Bangkok is One of the World’s Most Visited Cities
I was confronted by the size of Bangkok as soon as I left the airport and faced the traffic. My hotel was on the other side of the city, and the taxi ride took more than an hour. If I were planning a longer visit, I would have definitely learned how to use the local BTS sky train system to save time. It is known to be very clean and efficient. Formerly known as ‘Venice of the East’, Bangkok’s waterways and canal system also offers a much-needed respite and bloodline, with boat taxis offering an alternative means of transportation.
I was visiting in late June, and it was very hot throughout the day. In June, the temperature can go up to 38 degrees Celsius. While the weather may be uncomfortably hot at first, one of the perks of traveling in off-season is being able to save on hotels.
As a monarchy, the Thai king is revered and loved by the local population. My visit happened within a year of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who was the oldest and longest-serving monarch in the world until he passed away in October 2016. A full year of mourning was announced, with some activities limited. It was not uncommon to see shrines to the King and some locals wore black for a whole year. Thailand is a majority Buddhist country, and the locals adhere to the Theravada branch of Buddhism. Any gestures deemed disrespectful to the local religion may put visitors in trouble. Coming from the airport, there were signs warning tourists that Buddha tattoos are unacceptable and may incur a fine or deportation.
The Luxurious Anantara Riverside Hotel in Bangkok
I stayed at the luxurious Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort on the Chao Phraya River. The hotel had lush green gardens on its grounds and one of the city’s most reputable spas. I booked a Thai massage as soon as I checked in. If you haven’t had a Thai massage before, don’t expect to be pampered and showered with massage oils. In fact, it can be quite painful. You lie down and are forcibly stretched in different positions, while the masseur also applies great strength on your back and joints.
In the evening, I took advantage of the cooler weather and the free river shuttle that the hotel offers, and took the boat to the Asiatique Riverfront Night Market just across the river for some shopping. The Asiatique Market is relatively new. It is well clean, spacious and does not have vendors haggling customers to buy goods. Tourists can find many souvenir and gift shops, as well as well as clothes and other items offered at malls throughout the city. The market also offers countless food options to choose from. I was able to find some good gifts to bring back.
At the time of my visit, the conversion rate was 30 Thai Bhat per 1 USD. Thailand is very affordable. Unless you plan on doing a lot of shopping, a budget of 1500-2000 Baht can cover daily expenses and activities. The average backpacker spends as little as 800 Baht per day, considering that they stick to street food and avoid taking taxis.
Thai cuisine is one of the world’s most popular, and Bangkok is a premier culinary destination. The locals are very generous with their chili peppers, which translate into very spicy dishes. My favorite is the Thom Yum Gung, a red curry paste soup with shrimp and zesty lemongrass, lime leaves and galangal (a ginger-like plant unique to this region). Side dishes include fried Morning Glory, which is a local version of spinach in soy sauce, and Chicken Satay skewers dipped in peanut sauce. Another signature dish is Pad Thai noodles, with tofu or meat. Many curries are cooked in coconut milk and Thai basil is used as garnish at the end.
As the most visited city in the world, Bangkok is one of the shopping destinations in Asia. Its markets and megamalls do not disappoint. The next morning, I headed to the Chatuchak Market (also known as JJ market). The market opens from Friday evening to Sunday, and is often cited as the largest open-air market in the world, where you can find literally anything from imitation goods to higher-end options, as well as antique furniture and pets.
I was able to find some Asian designer-style outfits at better prices than boutiques, as well as beautiful handmade shoes. Thailand is also renowned for its spa products and soaps, many of which use natural essential oils and organic ingredients. I made sure to stock up on those, and they kept my luggage smelling aromatic throughout my journey.
Bangkok is not only popular for shopping. There are over 30,000 Buddhist temples in Bangkok. The city is famous for its Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha, as well as Khaosan Road for those who like to party on the cheap. Bangkok’s Chinatown is one of the largest in world. Many people flock here for street food. I was careful with street food and chose to eat indoors instead. The city still has a reputation for attracting sex tourism, and that is very evident in the seedy Patpong Red Lights District upon nightfall. There is a small night market in Patpong, but I found it to be filled with brand knock-offs and not memorable at all. The sleazy district sits in very stark contrast with the spotless Lumphini Park and glitzy skyscrapers nearby.
As one of the largest cities in Asia, Bangkok offers endless options for sightseeing and activities.
Considering that my itinerary was well-planned and split among different regions and countries, I allocated certain activities to the destination. While there are so many interesting temples and historical landmarks in Bangkok, I was short on time. I left temple visits to other places on my trips and chose to experience the more modern aspect of city life in Bangkok instead, then the temple visits and nature tourism for Siem Reap, Chiang Mai and Luang Prabang.
On my second and last evening in Bangkok, I headed back to the hotel and visited the adjacent Avani Riverside hotel. I headed up to their rooftop (one of the best in Thailand) for some wine and stunning views of the cityscape at night–another must-do for when you are in Bangkok.
Sleek City Rooftop Bar at the Avani Riverside Bangkok
Bangkok, Thailand Pros:
Infinite shopping and dining options
Highly developed metropolis
Endless cultural experiences
Big international community
Budget-friendly
Bangkok, Thailand Cons:
Traffic and pollution issues
Can be sleazy in some parts
Too hot in summer months
Siem Reap: The Ancient City of Angkor
I flew into Siem Reap from Bangkok via Air Asia. Siem Reap is a small tourist town in western Cambodia centered on the nearby Angkor complex, and numerous temples spread out in the territory. Make sure to get your e-visa on arrival sorted and printed to save time and inform your hotel of estimated arrival time. Most hotels in Siem Reap offer complimentary airport shuttle pickup. It is also advised to get your passes for the temple complex a day in advance (as soon as you arrive). At the time of my trip 1 day pass cost $37 USD, a 3 day pass cost $ 62 and a 7 day pass cost $ 72. Considering the length of my trip, and the immense size of the temples I opted for the three-day pass.
I booked three nights at the Borei d’Angkor, and was impressed with the hotel amenities and quality of the service. I also visited with family for three days in 2019. The hotel we stayed at then was the equally impressive Lotus Blanc Resort. Our trip itinerary and activities then were also very similar to my first visit. The local currency is the Cambodian Riel, but US Dollars are widely accepted in Cambodia. On smaller purchases, they mostly give you the change in local currency.
As one of the rare historical treasures of the world, I was really excited to visit Angkor Wat, and all the other temples that make up the ancient city of Angkor.
Upon arrival, I took a tuk-tuk taxi to the ticket kiosk to buy my visitors’ pass for Angkor in the city. I had seen many documentaries about Cambodia’s tragic history in the 1970s. Most war museums and genocide monuments are located in the capital Phnom Penh, which I did not get to visit. However, there is a small memorial around Siem Reap called Wat Thmey. It was a very humbling experience to be there and to pay respect to the victims of Pol Pot’s Khmer regime. Whenever I visit a new country, I also do a bit of what’s known as “dark tourism”. I try my best to see happy places and sad places for a more complete cultural immersion and to fully appreciate local history.
Sunset at Angkor Wat
The Angkor temple complex also admits visitors who have already purchased passes for the following day to watch the sunset there towards closing time in the early evening. I headed there in the Tuk Tuk to watch sunset from outside the gigantic main pagodas of Angkor What. It was a very scenic ride through lush jungle. June is considered the start of rainy season in Siem Reap, and it was pouring in the afternoon. Riding the tuk-tuk in the jungle, it felt as though I could smell the whole the whole forest, from the earth to the leaves of the gigantic trees.
Afterwards, the tuk-tuk driver dropped me off in the city’s entertainment district. Siem Reap’s Pub Street is a haven for tourists and backpackers. I was startled with how wild some of the bars along this busy street would get, and how some of them would stay open until the early hours of the morning. Solo travelers would have no problem meeting new people in Siem Reap.
For those who prefer less boozy and more relaxed evenings, there are also plenty of restaurant options in and around Pub Street. Popular spots include Khmer Kitchen and Temple Food n Beverage. For more upscale option, Malis offers a truly fine dining experience in a beautiful setting. Make sure make to try Fish Amok, a signature Khmer dish, served in banana leaf. Most varieties contain egg and fish, but there are vegetarian and vegan options upon request.
There is also a night market nearby for street food options and souvenirs. Quality wise, I found there to be a shortage of unique artisanal goods in Siem Reap compared to other places. Most goods are mass produced and each vendor’s stock more or less resembles the other. Still, it is a good place to buy inexpensive gifts if you are in town or in the region on a short visit. One place that stood out was Senteurs d’Angkor, which makes artisanal soap and perfumes in beautiful bamboo packaging.
The next morning, I got up before dawn and took my scheduled ride to watch sunrise at Angkor Wat. It is worth mentioning that ‘Angkor Wat’ refers to the main Angkor temple. The city of Angkor on the outskirts of Siem Reap contains tens of temples ranging in size and the era in which they were built (about 800-1300 AD). Those include Wat Bayon, known for its large, smiling stone face statues that look at you from all angles, as well as Ta Prohm Temple, famous for its oversized sprung trees whose roots are overgrown into the temple’s stone shrines. The latter is particularly famous for being the filming location of the Tomb Raider movie.
I spent the remainder of my trip exploring the ancient city and its temples in the morning, and cooling off over drinks at Pub Street in the evening. I could go into further detail about the sites and temples at Angkor, but no description of mine could ever do the place justice. Visiting Siem Reap and Angkor Wat is one of those ‘Wonders of the World’ that should be on every traveler’s list.
I also returned to Siem Reap with my parents two years later, as part of another Southeast Asia trip (this time with Malaysia and Singapore).
Traditional Khmer Dance Show in Siem Reap
Siem Reap, Cambodia Pros:
Breathtaking historical landmarks
Budget destination
Friendly locals
Siem Reap, Cambodia Cons:
All activities are centered on Angkor Wat temples
Chiang Mai: The Heart and Soul of Thailand
After 3 nights in Siem Reap, I headed back to Thailand. I flew to Chiang Mai on Bangkok Airways (via a brief layover in Bangkok).
Located in the hills of northern Thailand, Chiang Mai is often referred to as ‘The Cultural Capital of Thailand’. Despite being Thailand’s second largest city, Chiang Mai offers a much more relaxed atmosphere than Bangkok, with stunning landscapes, a slower pace to life and numerous cultural attractions. Make sure to pack bug spray, because you will be surrounded by mosquitos. On the flipside, the area is lush and noticeably cooler than Bangkok—even in the middle of June.
The Fresh Mist over Chiang Mai’s Hills
I stayed at the Mango T. Villa Chiang Mai Resort, where I had a small bungalow for a very good price. This small boutique hotel was relatively new and did not have many visitors at the time. It is also relatively far from the old city. Still, my room was very comfortable and the hotel staff were exceptional. They were very attentive and surprised me with a birthday cake and had gathered to sing me ‘Happy Birthday’. It was a very heartwarming gesture.
From there, I took a taxi to the city center. The most common type of transportation in Chiang Mai is the ‘red taxi’. It resembles a van with open seating at the back where random passengers share a ride, depending on their direction. They are easy to flag and cost as little as 30 Baht or 1 USD. Simply inform the driver of your destination, if it is in their direction then they tell you to hop on, then you hop off when you’ve arrived.
On my first night, I decided to check out the night bazaar for shopping and food options. Chiang Mai’s night bazaar is a very quaint district with numerous arts and crafts shops, souvenirs, food stalls and food trucks. The atmosphere is also much more relaxed than the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Chaing Mai also has its own culinary scene specific to northern Thailand. Kao Soi is one local noodle curry soup dish to try, and it comes with a variety of toppings. The night bazaar is close to many bars and nightclubs. If any country pioneered drag and ladyboy shows, then it is probably Thailand. The best shows in the city take place at the Ram Bar, and there’s no cover charge.
The next day I took a tour from my hotel. The tour started with a morning visit to the hillside Hmong village, one of the indigenous tribes in the area, where I got to learn about their traditions and mastery of embroidered silk and cotton textiles.
Afterwards, we headed to Doy Sutep Mountain temple, to admire its golden pagodas and breathtaking views of the city.
The next day, I took another tour to the Tiger Kingdom orphanage. I had heard mixed reviews, with many urging tourists not to go because the tigers are allegedly sedated. While some may call the place a tourist trap, it was a worthwhile experience to bond up-close with such a big cat. Chiang Mai also has several other animal attractions, including an Elephant sanctuary, crocodile farms and a butterfly garden.
My trip also included a visit to the Hill Tribe Village, with Karen, Lahu, Mien, Akha and Lisu ethnic inhabitants. Each tribe has its own distinctive way of clothing and accessories. Most notably, Karen and Kayan Lahwi women wear stacked neck rings since childhood that really elongate their necks. The Lahwi women wear black turbans. The Hill Tribe village also has mixed reviews from travelers as some refer to it as not being an actual village and a human zoo. However, I spoke to some of the local villages and they were very welcoming. Many make a living from selling their handicrafts to tourists.
After my stay in Cambodia, I had experienced a bit of temple fatigue. Still, Chiang Mai is famous for its colorful temples. On my next trip, I will make sure to allocate more time to visit the landmark Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Chiang Mai and Wat Suan Dok temples. I will also make sure to visit the city of Chiang Rai (located about a 4 hour’s drive from Chiang Mai) to see Wat Rong Kun or ‘The White Temple’.
After three restful nights in Chiang Mai, I was ready for my last stop on this jam-packed trip, the charming colonial town of Luang Prabang in Northern Laos.
Chiang Mai, Thailand Pros:
Mild climate
Cultural activities
Nature and hiking
Chiang Mai, Thailand Cons:
Language barrier
Luang Prabang: An UnderDiscovered Gem on the Mekong River
I knew very little about Laos and its leading tourist destination of Luang Prabang before coming across videos and blogs of travelers to the area. What prompted me to visit most was its proximity to Chiang Mai, its colonial architecture, as well as its gorgeous waterfalls. Laos is a landlocked country that is often overshadowed by its larger neighbors. The Mekong River flows throughout the length of Laos and is the heart and soul of the country.
Daily Alms Giving Ceremony in Luang Prabang
I flew into Luang Prabang via Chiang Mai on a direct Laos Airlines flight. At the time, foreign flights into Luang Prabang were not very frequent, and my only option was with the national carrier. Visitors can get a visa upon arrival for about $40 dollars (depending on country of origin). The local currency is the Laos Kip. Just like in Cambodia, you can pay in US Dollars. Quality hotels tend to be on the pricier perhaps due to a lack of competition, but aside from accommodation Luang Prabang is very inexpensive.
I booked my stay at the gorgeous Satri House Luang Prabang. The hotel is on the pricier side, but considering that it was my birthday that week, I decided to splurge on accommodation. Satri House is one of the most luxurious hotels in Luang Prabang and is located very close to the city center. It is a collection of small colonial buildings, with a beautiful indoor garden and exquisitely designed rooms with massive wooden patios. There is attention to detail everywhere in this hotel.
Upon check in the evening, I planned my activities with the front desk staff for the next day before heading to their evening market.
The night market in Luang Prabang in the middle of the city and at the foothills of Mount Phusi, and just below the gorgeous Wat May Souvannapoumaram. For lovers of artisan goods and handicrafts, this is hands-down the best market in Southeast Asia. The quality of the goods is top-notch, it is a very clean and well-organized market with local vendors who sell beautiful clothes, wood items, coffee and local textiles that are handmade in the region. I managed to get plenty of gifts from the Luang Prabang market, as well as some gorgeous home accents in silk and wood. I cannot wait to go back to there with empty suitcases to load up!
Luang Prabang’s Night Market is Southeast Asia’s Tidiest and Most Authentic
Early the next morning, my guide picked me up from my hotel to partake in the alms giving ceremony. It is a famous tradition in Luang Prabang, and much of the region, where local residents share rice and food in a line as the monks pass by with their baskets. Monks are technically not allowed to perform their duties for a salary, so they receive their daily food from the locals. The alms giving ceremony is a contested topic, as some argue that what was once a spiritual event has been overtaken by tourists and their cameras. The monks shy away from cameras and prefer their privacy when partaking in this ritual. Being a tourist, I chose to still take partake in alms giving—but respectfully. One can buy rice from one of the nearby vendors to share with the monks as they line up and pass by to receive the alms.
Luang Prabang perfectly blends French colonial influence through its villas and mansions and festive Asian colors in its architecture. The temples are very ornate and decorated in gold and bright colors. It was one of the former capitals of the Kingdom of Laos, and is surrounded by pristine nature. Make sure to dress modestly when visiting the temples and cultural sites, as those wearing shorts and tank tops are turned down.
Laos is by no means a rich country. It is much less flashy and boisterous than its neighbors. Most Laotians rely on farming and fishing straight from the Mekong River. From the locals’ faces and their gentle demeaner, you can tell that they embrace a much more meditative approach to wealth and happiness. Luang Prabang epitomizes Zen.
The Morning Fruit and Vegetable Market
French influence is also clearly noted in the cuisine of Laos. My guide took me to the best bakery in town for coffee, croissant and baguette. On a similar note, Laos is famous of its coffee culture, which is sometimes drunk cold (just like in nearby Vietnam). Afterwards, we headed out of town to the nearby Kuang Si waterfalls. After a short hike, where we got to see some of the native bears in a small sanctuary, we arrived at perhaps the most gorgeous waterfalls I have seen. The Kuang Si waterfalls is comprised of a small series of pools that flow downwards. The water is a clear crystal blue and its temperature is just the perfect level of cool. Swimming is not allowed in the upper pools, but visitors can still hike up to the upper pools to take photos. The Kuang Si waterfalls were one of the highlights of my trip to Southeast Asia, and are enough reason for me to visit Laos again.
Afterwards, we stopped at a restaurant overlooking the mighty Mekong River, where we had some local dishes and the spiciest (and best) green papaya salad I have ever tried.For the main dish, we had traditional fish soup and steamed fish in Laos accompanied by locally-distilled rice whiskey. Rice whiskey is a local specialty. Adventurous tourists can try and bring home a variety with scorpions and snakes in the bottle. The evening ended more shopping at the night market and a few glasses of wine at the French-inspired bistros catering to tourists. Unlike Siem Reap and Chaing Mai, Luang Prabang is much smaller and bars are all closed by midnight. I had an early flight to catch the next morning, so that was my que to return to my hotel and call it a night after 9 days of being on the road.
Lunch on the Mekong River
There are much more things to do in Luang Prabang, but I only had less than 48 hours there because of my flight schedule. I consider my time there as the most delightful part of my 9-day trip. I had to fly back to Bangkok for a 3-hour layover and then straight on back to Dubai.
Since I visited, Laos has gained more popularity among international tourists, and I cannot wait to discover more of this country someday.
Luang Prabang, Laos Pros:
Under discovered and less touristy
Welcoming and humble locals
Stunning nature
Luang Prabang, Laos Cons:
Difficult to reach via external flights
Many hotels are on the pricier side