Oman is my favorite country in the Arabian/Persian Gulf region. When I was living in Dubai, it was about an hour flight away and was my go-to place of escape from the big city. While often overshadowed by the glitzier and showier United Arab Emirates (UAE), Oman provides a more authentic and slow-going introduction to South Arabian culture.

Flying into Muscat is easy. The national carrier Oman Air flies directly to many Asian and European destinations. Alternatively, it can be reached by a short flight by regional giants such as Qatar Airways or Emirates. Budget Airlines such as Fly Dubai and Salam Air also make frequent daily flights. Muscat can be reached from Dubai by car. The distance between the two cities is about 400 km through the desert, mountains and villages. It typically takes about 5 hours to drive, minus the wait times at the border crossing. It just makes much more sense to take a short and economical flight instead.

There is no public transport service in Muscat, and taxis are your only option. They are relatively rare and are difficult to flag on the street. More recently, there are a few apps for ordering taxis on demand, Upon leaving the airport, you immediately notice the rocky desert terrain. There is a lack of traffic and the very few pedestrians on the street. Despite being a capital city of about 1.5 million residents, it is quite spread out and very tranquil. In Muscat, you won’t hear any horns honking or vendors yelling. There are virtually no high-rise buildings, and Muscat’s villas and low-rise residential buildings are all painted a harmonious white color. Omanis take pride in how clean their city is and there is also rumored to be a fine for citizens who do not wash their cars.

Like many countries in the region, Oman is an absolute monarchy. Islam is very prominent in the local laws and everyday culture. Still, everyone is welcome. About 40% of the country’s population are foreign-born expatriates who work in manual, administrative and executive positions. Formerly an economy based on natural resources, Oman opened up to tourists in the past two decades with an emphasis on quality and sustainable tourism. The number of tourists is much smaller than in nearby Dubai.

Apart from the historical center or what is known as ‘Old Muscat’ there is no central downtown area. The city is spread out between many neighborhoods. The area of Qurum Beach is a great place to stay and enjoy the breeze. There are elegant white villas with cafes and restaurants overlooking a wide sandy coastline and a beach that is accessible to the public. Qurum Beach is the perfect spot for a morning stroll before the Omani sun reaches its peak.

A more secluded area with ultra-luxury hotels is Al Bustan. Here you will find the opulent Four Seasons Hotel, with an interior and patio views unparalleled anywhere in Muscat. Nearby there’s also the Shangri-La and the Capital Area Yacht club, which is popular with foreign residents. The water is azure blue, docile and warm enough to swim in.

On the few times that I visited until 2017, my favorite place to Stay was the Crowne Plaza. The chic hotel has a private beach and is located within close proximity to many of the city’s attractions. Waking up in the morning, my room had stunning views overlooking the Gulf of Oman and Qurum Beach. There are two restaurants serving oriental and Italian cuisine, as well as a pub. Owing to strict Islam laws, alcoholic drinks can only be consumed within hotel bars in Oman. A pint of commercial pilsner beer typically costs in the 4 Dinar or $10 USD range.

The weather in Oman is very hot and the sun is strong. The weather can reach 50 degrees Celsius in the summer months, and barely dropping below 20 degrees on winter nights. Much of everyday activity takes place within air-conditioned shopping malls. When the sun eases, the Corniche promenade is a favorite spot among locals, with shaded pavilions adding an arabesque look to the skyline. Here you can see the old part of the city as the barren mountains meet the water.

The Mutrah Fort, build by the Portuguese in the 16th century, sits on top of a hill overlooking the harbor and tells the story of the many civilizations that crossed this land. The citadel is relatively small but well-preserved, with curved observation towers. At the height of its glory as a major stop on the spicy and frankincense route, the Omani empire extended well beyond the borders of the Arabian Peninsula, reaching as far as Zanzibar and Mozambique in Africa, as well as Pakistan to the northeast. Cultural influences left behind by mixing with Indians, Persians and African Slaves live on to this day in the cuisine and ethnic makeup of the people.

The Mutrah Souq is the most bustling part of Muscat. Here you can find traditional Omani souvenirs such as encrusted Khanjars (or daggers), shiny gold and jewelry shops, frankincense stalls and traditional abayas. Omanis often dress in their traditional clothes. The men wear a white kandura with a white round cap and the women typically long abayas in a range of colors. Frankincense, or ‘bakhoor’ as it is known locally, is one of Oman’s most treasured resources. The rocks come from the resin of Frankincense trees in the country’s south, some varieties are edible and the substance is often added to a burner to produce a purifying aroma that has inspired royalty and saints throughout Ancient Egypt and the biblical epoch. If you have a few hours (and hundreds) to spare, visiting the Amouage Museum is a must for fragrance lovers when in Oman. The artisan perfumery produces one of the world’s most exclusive perfumes for men and women, with oriental aromas from ingredients such as Agarwood, Frankincense, Amber and Musk. Prices typically start at $300 USD for the smaller sizes, but one drop has enough longevity and silage for weeks.

In the old town, one peculiar and lesser-known museum that I enjoyed visiting was Ghaliya’s Museum of Modern Art. In addition to an exhibition room with local painters, this old house has rooms modelled after a traditional Omani house. There’s the Majlis room, a salon for male entertainment and segregated women’s quarters with a bridal room and colorful fabric and décor.

If you visit the area early in the morning, it is worthwhile checking out the fish market situated along the Mutrah Harbor. Here you can see local fisherman unloading their boats with fresh catches-of-the day that are ready to clean and sell. The most prized fish in the region is Hamour, a gold-spotted grouper with a light pink flesh. There’s also a wide selection of tuna and shellfish on display. The nearby restaurants are a great place to relax for lunch.

In the nearby countries that comprise the GCC (namely Saudi Arabia, Qatar, UAE, Kuwait and Bahrain), ‘blue collar’ occupations are almost always held by migrant workers. By Contrast, many manual jobs are held by locals in Oman, from fishermen to service staff and taxi drivers. Although not as wealthy as their neighbors, the locals are hardworking, modest and very friendly. If you have some time to spare, it is worthwhile checking out some of the fishing villages on the outskirts of Muscat, such as Seeb and Yiti Beach for panoramic views of distant fishing boats the Hajar Mountains as they dip into the water and form miraculous landscapes.

After the fall of the Omani Sultanate in the 18th century and subsequent British rule, progress was slow. Oman was one of the last countries to abolish slavery and illiteracy was commonplace. The locals subsisted on fishing and date cultivation. Sultan Qaboos bin Saiid came into rule in 1970 and quickly reversed his father’s isolationist policies, turning a largely tribal and feudal society into one of the most advanced in the Middle East, with a focus on education and social programs. He is a highly admired ruler who is seen as the father of modern-day Oman.

The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque was the ruler’s gift to his children, the people of Oman. It is one of the largest mosques in the world. The majority of Omanis observe the Ibadi branch of Islam, which emphasizes peace, contemplation and dialogue. The décor of the mosque is very elegant. The finishing is all in white, with intricate geometrical designs decorated the walls and arched high ceilings. Inside the men’s prayer room, there is an oversized Crystal chandelier and the floors are covered in a giant Persian rug that took 6000 workers and 4 years to finish. When visiting the mosque, it is obligatory to observe modest dress and keep shoes off. The mosque is only open for non-Muslims between 8 AM and 11 AM.

Equally as impressive is the Al Alam Palace. It is one of the six royal palaces in Oman. Mainly used for official ceremonies, this giant palace complex is also open to visitors. The white marble walls blend in with the rocky hills in the back, with white marble corridors and front gates feature gold and turquoise columns. The garden area is perfect for a walk as the sun sets in. Within walking distance, there is Oman National Museum, with 14 exhibition halls documenting Omani history through rare artefacts such as coins, textiles, weaponry and actual ships from the Sultanate’s Golden Age.

After a long day of sightseeing, a traditional Omani dinner typically starts with dates. Oman has close to 50 different varieties of dates in all shapes and sizes. Qahwa is ‘Arabic’ for coffee and can be found in a yellowish color in Oman, prepared from green coffee beans and mixed with cardamom seeds. Main courses borrow from Indian and Mediterranean cuisine. Quintessentially Omani dishes are the pilaf-like Majbous and Shiwa, which is meat that has been wrapped in banana leaf and slow cooked underground for at least a day. Shiwa is only typically prepared and served on special holidays such as Eid. Dessert is Halwa, a thick brown pudding prepared with sugar, honey and rose water.

Muscat is a great place to visit for a short getaway trip and feels like a world apart from ostentatious and boisterous Dubai. Though I never stayed in Muscat for more than 3 days in a row, I heard great things about other places in Oman for those with more time to spare—mainly the ancient capital of Nizwa and the lush, monsoon resort town of Salalah on the Indian Ocean. For those looking for a safe and authentic Arabian adventure, Oman beats other destinations with its unique heritage, natural beauty and welcoming people.

Muscat, Oman Pros:

· Clean and safe

· Rich history and cultural influences

· Friendly locals

· Reasonably biodiverse (with daytrips)

· English is widely spoken

Muscat, Oman Cons:

· Not enough public transport

· Can be extremely hot

· Too quiet for some with no real nightlife

· Can be costly for solo travelers

Muscat, Oman City Break: The Noiseless White City