One-Month Road Trip through the Colombian Andes
The Cocora Valley’s Wax Palms are the Tallest Palm Trees in the World
Colombia is a country of stunning natural diversity. There are at least five to seven different ecosystems in this mid-sized South American country. In June 2023, I had been living in Bogota, Colombia’s capital, for a few months. My short-term lease was coming to an end and I had a full month off before starting a new job. I packed a small suitcase and embarked on a month-long journey through Colombia’s interior.
My plan was to spend a week a week in different regions and cities along the Andres mountain range, including major cities such as Medellin and Cali, as well as the coffee region and small colonial towns straight out of postcards.
1-Santander: The Adventure Capital of Colombia
Morning Coffee in Barichara
From Bogota, I headed to the Terminal del Norte bus station in the early morning to catch a 7 AM Bus to San Gil. There are several bus operators leaving the terminal every hour. You can book bus tickets in advance online or directly at the station. There are several kiosks, one for each company, with different routes and time zones out of Bogota. I went with Copetran for the price of 50,000 Colombian Pesos ($12-13 USD) for a one-way ticket. Their buses are large, safe and very comfortable. The journey takes about 7 hours with one stop for lunch. Luckily, Copetran busses are air conditioned and have bathrooms, which is much-needed considering the length of the trip.
From Bogota, we drove through the mountains of Cundinamarca and Boyaca before arriving in the eastern department of Santander. The weather changed significantly from cool to sunny and hot as we approached San Gil. Santander is particularly famous for its grilled meat, and our bus made a stop at a local restaurant. A heart lunch from the daily menu, which included soup, rice, salad, meat and fresh juice was 14,000 Pesos, or less than $4 USD.
From San Gil’s small bus terminal, I took another small bus for the 30-minute journey to San Gil for about 8,000 pesos. You can also take a taxi for about 50,000 pesos if there are several passengers and if you are carrying heavy luggage. I chose the second option because I had my suitcase with me and so that I could be dropped off right at the hotel instead of the town square of Barichara.
I booked my 4-night stay at the Casa de Hercilia Boutique Hotel for a very reasonable 100,000 pesos or about $25 USD per night. It is an old house that has been passed through generations and converted into a hotel, with a small public café in the front courtyard and garden. It gets very hot in Barichara, and many houses are constructed with adobe mudbricks to stay cool. My room was very spacious and decorated in a simple style that is typical of the region, with a window facing one of the two small courtyards that make up this old house. It is located in a central location in Barichara, about a 3-minute walk to the town’s main square.
Barichara was founded in 1705 and its architecture has remained virtually unchanged throughout the centuries. It has a population of around 7,000 inhabitants and attracts many tourists, especially those coming from nearby cities to spend the weekend. What makes this little town particularly attractive is its hilly cobblestone streets that are lined with small white adobe houses and brick roofs. The colors of the buildings elegant, neutral and slightly rustic. The streets are small and hilly, which is a big plus for photography lovers. In Barichara, the tuk-tuk is a preferred mode of transport and can easily be found in the town’s central plaza.
Like with most towns in Colombia and Latin America, most action is centered around the main square, often with a church and public park. In Barichara, the Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception is the main place of worship and congregation point. It is a big church for such a small town, with an elaborate interior and gold-plated altar. It is surrounded by a small park, around which there are a handful of bistros and cafes, as well as souvenir shops that cater to visitors.
Some small hotels, restaurants and boutiques can also be found along the smaller streets that the central plaza intersects with, like the case of my hotel. Still, once evening sets in, most side streets empty out and you can only find people in the main square. I was surprised to see how early everything closes in Barichara, despite its popularity among local and international tourists.
Santander is famous for one exotic delicacy that isn’t found anywhere else in Colombia. Ever since Indigenous civilization, hormigas culonas or large, round ants have been a favourite snack among the locals. They are farm grown, and their salty flavor when roasted make them a popular side dish at restaurants that specialize in local cuisine.
Colombia is Very Carnivorous
One great place to sample Santanderenean cuisine in Barichara is at El Puntal restaurant just by the main square. The décor resembles a large mountain cabin, it is spacious and has a terrace to enjoy views of the town center – all with very reasonable prices. Gringo Mike’s is another favorite, with locations in both San Gil and Barichara. Gringo Mike’s specializes in ‘West Coast American food’, with enormous portions of burgers that feature different condiments inside home-baked bread buns. El Bodegón de Toñita Restaurante Bar is also a good place to have a wrap or a salad with a cocktail or Tinto de Verano. It sits right below the steps to the main cathedral and stays open a bit later. If you love books like I do, then you must check out at Aljibe Librería. The bookstore café has floor-to-ceiling collections of new and used books in Spanish that you can buy or simply browse while having a pastry or glass of wine.
By 10 PM, the few bars and restaurants on the main square take their last orders. Even at daytimes, some streets look and feel deserted. Barichara is a quiet town; you will not be haggled by vendors or hear any reggaetón music blasting loudly. It attracts a different type of tourist from nearby San Gil, which is larger and rowdier. While both towns are historical and have amazing nature, Barichara is more suited for couples and families, while San Gil throws more of a party and is an important stop on the backpacker’s itinerary with the abundance of extreme sports that it offers. After a day or two, solo travelers like myself might feel a bit lonely in Barichara. I used some of this time to catch up on writing and plan parts of my remaining itinerary.
While Barichara is often hailed as the prettiest town in all of Colombia, as well as inspiring parts of Disney’s Encanto, there aren’t too many historical landmarks or things to do there. It is beautiful, but not in a flashy or colorful way. The key is to explore the town in a leisurely pace and just feel the charming energy this colonial town offers as you stroll past its narrow streets and take in its nuanced beauty. There are only a handful of sites for visitors to discover in Barichara, and the town’s safety and ease of access to San Gil and the Chicamocha Canyon make it an ideal base for when exploring Santander.
The Tuk-Tuk is an Ideal Mode of Transport in Barichara
Within Barichara, and outside the main square and its large cathedral, there is another church that cannot be missed. At the top of a hill sits the Church of Santa Barbara. While not the largest, it is Barichara’s oldest church, dating back to the 18th century. The façade is a beautiful red brick with a bell tower, and the interior has been transformed into an art gallery.
An unusual place of interest that tourists like to visit in Barichara Is the local cemetery. It is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Colombia, adorned with whimsical statues and greenery. The vibrant colors of fresh flowers add a joyous feeling to the tombstones. The locals in Barichara have used terracotta or adobe in everything from architecture to pottery for generations. At the Ceramics Museum, you can take a workshop and do your own pottery. There’s also the Fundación San Lorenzo de Barichara, where visitors can take a tour of artisan papermaking from vegetable fiber. Tours cost just 3,000 COP, and there’s a vairty of souvenirs to purchase, from notebooks to small furniture items, all of which are made out of specialty paper.
There are two viewing points in Barichara to take pictures of the stunning natural landscape, El Mirador, with a small bar that stays open till around midnight, and Salto de Mico, a bit further from the town center. It is a canyon zone, full off steep hills and valleys. However, the best views are offered on a visit deep into the Chicamocha Canyon, a trip I had planned for the next day.
After a relaxing day of sightseeing and walking around Barichara, I woke up early on my second day in Santander for an exciting day ahead. My first stop was to get artisanal coffee at my hotel, which I enjoyed while sitting on a bench outside and watching the locals start their day. People in Barichara, and in Colombia in general, are very early risers. It is not uncommon for people to get up at 5 AM and start their working day by 7 AM. The heat in Barichara also makes it more difficult to sleep in.
From Barichara’s main square, I took a bus to San Gil, which leaves around every 20 minutes. Upon reaching San Gil’s small terminal (or ‘terminalito’ as it is called), I had to switch to another bus thayt goes directly to Panachi. The journey costs 13,000 COP for a return ticket and takes about 40 minutes along a very curvy road of never-ending serpentine turns. The bus dropped us off right in the parking lot of Chicamocha National Park (also known as Panachi). Entrance to the park costs 45,000 COP.
Chicamocha National Park has one of the longest and most scenic cable car rides in the world. When inside the cable car, it takes about 20 minutes descending a very steep mountain and then ascending again to get to the second part, the observation point. Few cable car rides have impressed me as much as this one (apart from the one going up to the Great Wall of China, perhaps). The hills are covered in lush vegetation, from trees to cactuses, and a river sits at the base of the hills. The cable car moves slowly and allows for some great pictures and videos to be captured.
Chicamocha Canyon covers 265 hectares of natural, unspoiled beauty in the Eastern Andes Range. In Colombia, the Chicamocha Canyon is a symbol of national pride. It had previously been pitched to be included in the list of the World’s 7 natural wonders, and ended up in the final list of 77 places.
Once at the top, there are many restaurants and souvenir shops. If you are brave enough, you can also do many activities such as paragliding through the canyon, zip lining or relax in a giant swing that goes back and forth through the edge of a cliff. All activities incur and extra charge. There is also the Panachi waterpark at the entrance of the park, that adults and kids can enjoy. You can go to the Chicamocha Canyon by yourself like I did, or there are countless of tour operators in San Gil that can take you there. The second option might even be more convenient and economical if you want to partake in some of the extra adventure activities there.
The following day, I took another bus from Barichara to San Gil in the morning. When arriving at San Gil’s main square, there are many offices of tour companies offering tours to nearby natural retreats and extreme sports activities. San Gil is dubbed ‘The Adventure Capital of Colombia’, and there’s no shortage of exciting things to do in the area.
You can choose between bungee jumping over the river, swimming in waterfalls and natural pools, whitewater rafting and canoeing, among other things. I chose a more simple activity and went for the canoeing option. There are several levels of difficulty, based on your experience. The boat held only two people, myself and the instructor, and was actually more difficult that it looked at first. We started at the river on the outskirts of town, and the journey took about an hour, ending closer to the city center. The instructor films the experience on an action camera, and you can have videos and pictures sent straight to your inbox for a little extra charge. The waves were strong, and the stream moved very fast. I got really wet in the end and had to take a taxi, instead of a bus to Barichara.
Canoeing in San Gil was Very Fun and Extremely Wet
On my last day in Barichara, I chose to relax in town. I had a long trip the following day to my other destination in Santander, the bustling city of Bucaramanga. Barichara was a nice first stop on my long road trip. I had previously had high hopes for Barichara. The town is very pretty, but once you’ve spent a full day here, there isn’t much to do. Plus, everything seemed to close unreasonably early for such a touristy destination. Considering that I had plenty of time, four nights in Barichara with day trips to San Gil and adventures from there on seemed reasonable. However, for those who are more pressed for time, 2-3 days is plenty to split between Barichara and San Gil. Solo travelers might also choose to stay in San Gil and just take a day trip to Barichara instead, as there is more nightlife and opportunities to meet other solo travelers in San Gil.
To get to San Gil from Bucaramanga, I had to take a 3-hour bus from San Gil’s main bus station. I then took a taxi to Tatami Hostel in Bucaramanga, where I was staying for 4 nights. I had some friends in Bucaramanga, so I was looking forward to catching up with them.
Bucaramanga is the capital of Santander Department
Tatami Hostel is a very cozy place. I had my own room, with an en-suite bathroom and a balcony. The hostel is owned and managed by a couple, Ana and Jorge. Ana is a chef who sometimes hosts dinners at the hostel, and Jorge is a stand-up comedian. They are full of recommendations and go above and beyond to make sure that their guests had a comfortable and fun stay.
Tatami Hostel is located in a quiet, residential area called Los Pinos with villa-style houses. It is very safe during the day, but as with many cities in Colombia, it is recommended to avoid walking alone at night and just rely on taxis and Uber instead.
The Bucaramanga Metropolitan area is made up of three adjacent cities: Bucaramanga, Florianapolis, Piedecuesta and historic Girón. The combined population of metro Bucaramanga is close to 1.5 million residents. It is referred to locals as ‘La Cuidad Bonita’ The Pretty City) or ‘Cuidad de los Parques’ (City of Parks), with over 160 parks and green spaces around the city.
The weather in Bucaramanga is warm year-round. The city’s weather and affordability has made it a popular place for retirement, and it often ranks among Colombia’s most livable cities. There are also several universities, college and medical research centers in Bucaramanga, which attract students and young talent.
Bucaramanga is a pleasant city with friendly people. The Bumagués, or people from Santander have a distinct way of talk. They are very expressive with their hands and tend to speak on the louder side. While other Colombians sometimes mistake people from Santander for being rude, it is just their natural way of talking. For many years, Bucaramanga has been considered a very safe city. However, it is relatively close to the border with Venezuela. In the past decade, many migrants crossed the border fleeing the economic and political crisis in Venezuela, which has led to increased crime in Bucaramanga.
It can get very hot in Bucaramanga during the daytime. A lot of activity takes place in modern, air-conditioned malls. There are many shopping malls throughout Bucaramanga with local and international clothing brands, as well as a vast variety of restaurants. Bucaramanga is also a famous producer of shoes and leather goods. For a more local shopping experience, you can browse the many stores down San Francisco Street. Men’s and women’s shoes are produced and sold in-house and range from everyday tennis shoes to unusually high heels. Beauty pageantry is still big business in Colombia, and much of Latin America, and many beauty queens wear shoes from Bucaramanga when competing at international events.
There are a couple of museums in Bucaramanga, and the district of Giron retains colonial-era architecture with all houses painted white. It is about 9 km away from downtown Bucaramanga and makes for a great option for a day trip. Apart from that, greater Bucaramanga itself is not the prettiest city in Colombia. Most of it is relatively modern and unimpressive, and after a while, it tends to blend into one. The main reason why tourists visit Bucaramanga is for its easy access to the Chicamocha Canyon, which I had visited before while staying in Barichara.
One fun day trip I got to take was to see the Páramo de Santurbán. My friend Yesit is a local tour guide with his own company. He mostly specializes in canoeing trips and water sports activities in nearby Topocoro Lake. This time I convinced him to take some friends and I to the Páramo since I had never been to one before and was really eager to include it in my itinerary.
We left Bucaramanga early in the morning by car and drove up about an hour to reach the municipality of Vetas, the entry point to the Páramo. We kept the windows open to ensure an adequate supply of oxygen as we were ascending very high elevation despite the very cold air outside. As we drove up a misty road with the clouds remaining beneath us, the terrain became more and more rocky and deserted. Not many plant and animal species can survive this type of environment. By the end, we parked the car and paid 10,000 COP each to enter the reserve.
The Páramo (translated as ‘wasteland’ in Spanish) is a unique type of ecosystem that can only be found in Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela. It is the South American take on the moors of the UK and Ireland. They are located at extremely high altitudes, with a very special type of vegetation and fauna. This magical place is almost impossible to get to by public transport. Solo travelers must also avoid going alone because it is very easy to get lost in the empty, rugged terrain. Warm clothes, sunscreen and waterproof shoes are also must-haves when visiting a Páramo.
The hike takes about an hour of trekking through rocks and wet, moss-covered Moorish ground to reach the gorgeous Laguna Negra, the famous black lake that is the park’s decorative centerpiece. The Páramo de Santurbán covers a total area of over 140,000 hectares between the departments of Santander and Norte de Santander. It has a total of 7 lagoons, but visitors are only given access to a part of this natural wonder.
The Laguna Negra sits at an elevation of 3,783 meters above sea level. If you continue hiking for a few more hours, you might reach an elevation of 4,290 meters above sea level. Good luck finding your way back if you chose to reach the very top! We spent about another hour taking epic pictures by the lake before it started drizzling, so we headed back to the car.
Before heading back down the mountain to Bucaramanga, we stopped to have lunch at the small farming town of Tona. Tona is located about a 10-minute drive from the Páramo. It is a sleepy town with grey skies and cold air. Living conditions there are tough, and you can tell from underdeveloped the infrastructure is. Make sure to carry enough cash because it is difficult to find ATMs or places that accept card payment in many of the smaller towns in Colombia.
The setting is more reminiscent of what one would expect from Bolivia, instead of tropical Colombia. The locals wear very thick grey woolen ruanas (or ‘ponchos’ as they are commonly referred to by foreigners). The high elevation and proximity to the sun can have detrimental effects on the skin and cause premature ageing. Still, one can’t claim that they have truly been to Colombia without experiencing its very different regions and climates.
We were back in Bucaramanga in the early evening, and after a long hike in the cold, I slept for about 12 hours straight until the next morning. By my 3rd day in Bucaramanga, I felt like I had already seen and done more than a fair share than it has to offer. I was looking forward to my next destination, Medellin.
Medellin can be reached from Bucaramanga by bus, which is about a 9-hour journey westward. My initial plan was to do a complete road trip throughout the country by bus. You truly get to see and experience more when travelling by land. However, after having compared bus and flight ticket prices, I noticed a very slight difference. I cheated and opted for the second option with Avianca. I left Bucaramanga and reached Medellin’s José María Córdova Airport in less than an hour.
2-Medellin: City of Eternal Spring
Medellin’s international airport is located in Rionegro, about 20 kilometers away from the city. The taxi ride was very scenic and smooth as we drove through lush mountains. In contrast, getting home from the airport in Bogota is usually much less panoramic and much more congested.
About half an hour later, I arrived at the La Campana Boutique Hotel in El Poblado district, where I had booked for 5 nights. At the time, hotel rates in Medellin were on the higher side, and it was difficult to find good options for under 300,00 COP or about $80 USD per night. Overall, the hotel was average at best in terms of amenities and service. On the plus side, it was well located and had a central courtyard to relax in.
Medellin is the capital of Antioquia department or what is commonly known as ‘Paisa’ region. With a population of about 4 million, it is Colombia’s second largest city. When in Medellin, you can expect a mild and pleasant climate on any given day, which has earned it the title of ‘The City of Eternal Spring’.
Millions of international tourists visit Medellin every year, and generally prefer it to the busier and colder Bogota. The city has undergone very significant changes in the past few decades and is hailed as a Latin American urban transformation success story. In the 1980s and 1990s, Medellin was at the epicenter of Colombia’s violent drug conflict, with cartels wreaking havoc on the everyday population. It is hard to imagine that less than 30 years ago, Medellin was the deadliest city in the world.
Leafy, Pedestrian-Friendly El Poblado
Today, Medellin has been completely revamped with modern infrastructure, investment in culture and education and a booming tourism industry. Medellin on top of the Human Development Index, ahead of Bogotá. It has also become a favorite base among digital nomads due to the relatively low cost of living, climate and abundance of entertainment options. On the downside, digital nomads have significantly increased the prices of accommodation and real estate across the city, driving a large number of the locals out. While nowhere near as violent as it was once, crime is still a serious problem in Colombia’s cities and visitors must know how to behave when out in public. A popular slang is “No Des Papaya” (“Don’t Give Papaya”), which means do not give someone a reason to rob or take advantage of you. Be aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables hidden from sight at all times, even in the more swanky neighborhoods.
Most people who visit Medellin choose to stay in hotels and Airbnbs in upscale El Poblado. It is the most developed area of the city, with shops, bars and cafes lining the leafy avenues. The area is a mix of residential and commercial buildings, with most activity happening around Parque Lleras. Medellin has become a premier nightlife destination over the years and is considered by many as the reggaetón capital of the world. Unfortunately, Medellin has also attracted a lot of sex tourism over the years and some parts of El Poblado become sleazy at night.
Laureles, a bit north of El Poblado, is a good option for those seeking a more quiet time while in Medellin. The feel here is more local and community-centered, with small cafes and bars catering to a less rowdy crowd than El Poblado’s late-night partygoers. Staying in Laureles has increased in popularity over the recent years, further driving up prices.
Many government offices, exhibition halls and points of interest are located in the city center of Medellin. I booked a walking tour of the downtown area or ‘El Centro’ for a very fair price of $13 USD on Airbnb. The tour was offered completely in Spanish and the hosts were very friendly and knowledgeable. There are plenty of daytime and nighttime experiences to choose from on Airbnb in English and Spanish, in addition to some free ones if you plan your visit well.
We started at Plaza Mayor, with its sleek exhibition hall that houses many world-class exhibitions. From there, we walked along the riverfront for panoramic views of the cityscape hugged by the Western Andes mountain range. The promenade is very well developed and the breeze offers an escape from the heat of the midday sun. From there, we headed to the Parque de las Luces, which faces the city’s main library and features and features 300 modern light poles that illuminate the surrounding square every night. From there, we headed to El Centro’s principal attraction, Botero Square. Named after Colombian painter and sculptor Fernando Botero, the square features many of his comical artworks on display that you can stroll around for free. His very distinct style is impossible to miss, as he painted and sculpted objects in a stretched manner to make them look large and fat. You can see more of Botero’s work displayed at the nearby Museum of Antioquia. El Centro makes for a great trip during the day, but can be dangerous and is best avoided after dark.
Medellin is Colombia’s only city with a metro system, and it is a great source of pride for its residents. The network is composed of two lines, as well as a system of cable cars to reach the hilly neighborhoods. The metro is very economical and impeccably clean, which makes a great way for the locals to get around. I met my guide for a tour of Comuna 13 at the San Javier station. From there, we took a cable car to proceed with the tour.
Comuna 13 is one of Medellin’s must-visit places. Formerly a neglected and dangerous hilly area of unlicensed and improvised housing structures, this ‘barrio popular’ is a perfect example of the city’s reinvention. Education and social programs have significantly increased the community’s quality of life. It was previously cut off from the rest of the city, but residents now have access to reliable public transportation, in addition electric escalators connecting different parts of the barrio and making their lives much easier. My tour guide, Leidy, recounted stories of growing up in the neighborhood, its dark past and how it has changed over time. It is recommended to visit Comuna 13 with a local to a get a more in-depth cultural experience. Perhaps the main reason tourists flock to Comuna 13 is the murals and street art that add life and color to the otherwise humble houses. The views of the cityscape below are also breathtaking.
To this day, Colombia still suffers from the shadow of its past and negative perceptions worldwide. In the minds of many, the name Pablo Escobar is synonymous with Medellin and Colombia. Talking about Escobar in public is a contentious issue that draws feelings of disapproval among locals. Sadly, millions of thrill-seeking tourists flock to their country for narco tourism that glorify Escobar’s life. There are several Escobar-themed tourist cities in the area of Medellin, including the drug barron’s mega estate of Hacienda Napoli (now a free theme park). However, I chose not to go on any of the Escobar-themed tours in Medellin out of respect.
Other sites of interest within Medellin include Parque Arvi and Pueblito Paisa, a replica of a traditional Antioquenian village where tourists can sample traditional food such as the Bandeja Paisa and buy local souvenirs. I chose to skip the later because, after all, it is a replica village and I had much more authentic experience planned out as part of my trip. Another place that most tourists to Medellin end up visiting, which I skipped due to time constraints, is the town of Guatapé and El Peñón rock.
There is a lot of rivalry between Bogota and Medellin for the title of Colombia’s best city. Overall, Medellin is a very pleasant city with world-class infrastructure and a progressive outlook on the future. It is easy to see why so many people flock to Medellin and choose to stay. Having lived in Bogota for some time by then, I found that the capital offered more history, diversity and opportunities for career growth. In my view, Medellin’s climate, urban design, air quality and more relaxed lifestyle make it a great destination for a holiday.
3-Manizales and the Coffee Triangle: The Essence of Colombia
Colombia’s coffee-producing Eje Cafetero region is the heart and soul of Colombia. It is principally made up of three departments: Caldas, Quindío and Risaralda.
For the rest of my trip, I took a bus from Medellin’s Terminal del Sur to get to Manizales, where I were to spend seven nights and use it as a base to explore the surrounding coffee region. The journey from Medellin to Manizales by bus usually takes about 5 hours and costs about 35,000 COP. However, due to road construction along the way, our arrival was delayed by about three hours.
In Manizales, I booked my week-long stay at the Paraiso Verde Lodge in the Vereda Cuchilla de Los Santa area. The eco-lodging style accommodation is tucked away deep within an isolated valley. The views from the premises are otherworldly and are some of the best that you will get in all of Colombia. The staff were extremely friendly and accommodating. For less than 30 USD per night, my stay also included daily breakfast. My favorite were the waffles that are topped with wild berries and flower petals. The property is very large, with a hiking trail, a campfire area and several observation points.
At Paraiso Verde, it is not uncommon to see toucans or one of the many colorful bird species that inhabit the area. It is a great spot for birdwatching. There are also many different species of trees, plants and flowers that make this zone very unique. The Chilean poet Pablo Neruda described Manizales are the ‘Factory of Sunsets’ and it’s no wonder why. The small eco hotel deserves its name of Paraiso (or Paradise). It is a little piece of heaven just five minutes from the city. The only downside was actually reaching the hotel by car. The road from the entry gate to the hotel building was extremely rocky and bumpy. I had to leave the car and continue walking downhill with my luggage. If you choose to drive in, make sure you have the right car and tires.
Manizales, the capital of Caldas Department, is nicknamed ‘The City of Open Arms’. A mid-sized city of 500,000 inhabitants, it ranks among Colombia’s safest cities. Additionally, its streets are very clean and it is considered a highly livable city. It is seen as a more quiet and affordable alternative to Medellin. It sits right in the middle between Medellin and Cali and has its own airport. Additionally, the larger city of Perreira in Risaralda department is less than an hour away, in addition to also being close to Armenia, Quindío – all three sister cities comprise the ‘Coffee Triangle’.
In Manizales, the climate is warm during the day and cool at night thanks to being at an altitude of just over 2,000 meters above sea level. Manizales typically receives considerable rainfall, especially in the afternoon, which produces very lush vegetation. The climate in Caldas, as well as its neighboring departments that form the Coffee Triangle, is perfect for coffee production.
The coffee bean was introduced to Colombia in the 17th century when it was brought across the Atlantic by Jesuit Priests. Today, Colombia is one of the world’s leading producers of coffee. There are many fincas or Hacienda-type plantations around Manizales that you can visit for a scenic daytrip, as well as to learn about how coffee is grown, harvested and roasted. There are large international-scale producers of coffee such as Juan Valdez, with shops around Colombia and Latin America, as well as the smaller, gourmet-style coffee producers typically run by families. A day trip to a coffee finca, or several, is an absolute must while in the region, and visitors are spoiled by the plethora of choice.
Manizales has a cozy and well-preserved historical center that dates back to the mid 1800s when the town was established. The area is slightly highly, but very walkable, with many quaint cafes and bars. The locals are known to be some of the nicest in Colombia, and I enjoyed getting to know them and chatting strangers up over shots of Aguardiente, the national spirit with an overpowering aniseed taste. It was also Independence Day, with many festivities taking place.
The main square is called Plaza Bolivar (no surprise there), and boasts Colombia’s tallest church. The Manizales cathedral is an elegant neo-gothic cathedral. It is famous for its stained-glass windows and observation deck that can be reached by a very narrow spiral staircase. While at the top, there’s also a café where you can have lunch and enjoy the views.
Apart from the cathedral and main square, sightseeing options within Manizales are limited. The best way to take advantage of your stay here is to enjoy the fresh air, nature and coffee. In the evening, a visit to the Tierra Viva hot springs is a fun and relaxing experience. There are three pools to choose from, complete with a restaurant and pool service of drinks. The locals come here in groups and throw a party while soaking up the thermal water.
The undisputed highlight of my journey was a day trip that I took from Manizales to the Cocora Valley, with stops in the magical towns of Salento and Filandia. There is one tour that leaves Manizales once a week for only 59,000 COP with Alcon Tours. The other tours that I was browsing had been much costlier and typically left from Pereira instead of Manizales. The only downside of this experience was having to wake up before sunrise, and going on a 14-hour journey, half of which was spent in a crammed bus to and from our destinations.
I had to pre-arrange my taxi ride from the hotel, and was picked up from downtown Manizales at 5:45 AM. It was a chilly morning as we waited outside the tour operator’s office for the bus to arrive. We arrived at the picturesque Cocora Valley at about 11 AM. It is impossible not to be inspired by its natural beauty. Once there, you are greeted by the tallest palm trees in the world against a backdrop of bright green mountains. The palm trees can grow to a height of up to 60 meters and can only grow in the Andes of Colombia and Peru. Entrance to the natural park costs just 15,000 COP and you can easily spend a few hours on the hiking trail, while taking hundreds of pictures. You can also go on a horseback riding tour while there for an extra cost. Visiting the Cocora Valley is a mystical experience that no amount of descriptive writing or pictures can do justice. It is indisputably one of the top things that every tourist must see with their own eyes if they’ve already come all the way to Colombia.
30 minutes away from the Cocora Valley is the town of Salento, where we headed for lunch. I had a delicious plate of ‘trucha de ajillo’ or grilled trout fillet in garlic sauce. Salento is Colombia’s most colorful town and has been one of the inspirations for Disney’s Encanto. The buildings are small, dating back to colonial times, and the doors, windows and balconies are painted in a wild parade of bright colors. Most of the activity is centered around the main square and surrounding streets, with street buskers, restaurants and souvenir shops overflowing with open-mouthed tourists.
Salento’s population is roughly equal to that of Barichara, Santander, where I had started my journey around the country. Both small, mountainous colonial towns vie for the title of the most beautiful in Colombia. However, they couldn’t be any more different. While Barichara’s houses are all painted white, with a few nuanced colors in the brick roofs and wooden doors, those in Salento are painted every single color that the naked eye can see. The energy in Salento is also very different. The music is louder, the vendors are more smiley and the town is much livelier at night. Within Colombia, every region is different and the cultural differences between Santander and the Paisa region are clearly evident, the former is rugged and more reserved, while the latter is whimsical and colorful. Had I planned my trip better, I would have definitely stayed overnight in vibrant Salento. A bit less touristy than Salento, but equally is beautiful is the little town of Filandia. The architecture is just as pretty and the houses are also very colorful. Filandia has a gorgeous central church and an observation tower where on a clear day you can spot the snow-capped Nevado del Tolima volcano.
We arrived back in Manizales at night on what seemed like a never-ending, but totally worthwhile journey to the treasures of the Eje Cafetero. My week in this region was very relaxing. I managed to catch up on some work and was looking forward to the next stop on my trip, the passionate city of Cali.
4-Cali: The Salsa Capital of the World
I took an afternoon bus south from Manizales to Cali, which lasted just about four hours. From Cali’s central bus station, it was another short taxi ride to my hotel.
Cali (officially known as ‘Santiago de Cali’) is Colombia’s third largest city. Its proximity to the Pacific Ocean made it a very important trading hub for centuries. While not exactly on the Pacific, the cuisine is Cali is very reliant on fish and seafood. It also has a significantly higher ratio of Afro Colombians (or ‘Afrodescendientes’ as common in Colombian Spanish), when compared to other big cities in the Andean range. Inbound migration from the nearby port of Buenaventura and largely Afro-Colombian department of el Choco, mixed with centuries of immigrants from the old world, have made Cali a true melting pot of ethnicities.
Cali is informally known as ‘The Salsa Capital of the World’. While the music genre was not born in Cali, the locals adopted the music and made it their own. The weather in Cali can be scorching hot, which adds a lot of passion and warmth to the locals, many of whom live up to this stereotype. While not all international visitors have Cali in mind when visiting Colombia, the city is highly folkloric and offers different vibes from those felt in Medellin, Bogota or the Caribbean cities.
I booked my seven-night stay at the upscale Faranda Collection, one of the best hotels in the city. The staff were very friendly, the breakfast was varied and my room was comfortable. Most importantly, the hotel rooftop had two jacuzzi pools, which was where I spent many several afternoons when the heat reached 35 degrees Celsius. In the evenings, the rooftop is converted into a disco bar that is also open to the public. The drinks were on the pricier side, but the views of the cityscape at night were worth paying 50,000 COP for a cocktail. The bar was mostly empty at night during my stay, but the music kept playing until the early morning.
The Faranda Collection hotel, which is managed by the Radisson Group, is located right on the riverside promenade. Cali has a reputation for being one of the more dangerous cities in Colombia, so I did some research into which area to stay in. Throughout the day, and especially when the sun comes down, the riverside is full of people taking a stroll along a few kilometers’ long urban park lined with bars and restaurants. The area around the river was formerly neglected, but was recently revitalized. Today, it is where most of the action takes place in Cali, with office buildings and hotel towers facing the river. Security is present on every block, and the area feels safe at any hour of the day.
From my hotel, it was about a 15-minute walk along the river promenade to one of Cali’s landmarks, La Hermita cathedral. La Hermita is relatively new, having been built towards the middle of the 20th century. It is built in a gothic style and has a white exterior, somewhat reminiscent of the Milan cathedral, making it stand out and contrasting with the more modern building styles along the riverside. Just outside La Hermita, there’s a free daily walking tour that leaves at 8 AM.
Not too far from the river promenade is Cali’s historical Barrio San Antonio, a well-preserved neighborhood dating back to at least the 18th century. At the heart of the districts is a small hill with the San Antonio church and some of the best views of the city from above. Barrio San Antonio is a quiet neighborhood that feels like it is world away from the busy boulevards just outside this historical center. The streets here are narrow and paved with cobble-stone. There are several handicrafts boutiques at the ground level of houses with colorful hand-painted murals and street art, which add even more bohemian touches. San Antonio is also a good place to eat with restaurants and cocktail lounges serving local and international specialties. My visit to San Antonio was somewhere between 3 and 5 PM, when most of the business in the area were closed for the afternoon.
As with other notoriously hot cities in Colombia (such as Barranquilla), local businesses take a few hours off in the afternoon in order to reopen when the sun has gown down and the air is cooler.
From Barrio San Antonio, it is a short walking distance to the Archeological Museum Calima and the Religious Art Museum of La Merced –both of which are housed in the same building, a church constructed in the 16th century. Both museums are relatively small, but hold interesting artefacts from the pre-Columbian era, as well as elaborate Catholic-themed paintings from the Conquistador area. The Church itself is a work of art and is Cali’s most beautiful building, complete with a tranquil courtyard garden.
Music is felt everywhere in Cali. One place that is impossible not to notice as you walk or drive in the city center is the giant golden trumpet structure at La Plazoleta. The park is dedicated to Colombian musician Jairo Varela. The surprise comes when you stand behind one of the triangular horns. The inner walls are decorated with extracts from lyrics and the music comes on as soon as you step inside. The name ‘Cali’ has become synonymous with Salsa music. Here, you can learn to dance from among hundreds of salsa schools. Private classes range from as a little as a few dollars an hour. There are salsa bars and clubs that throw a party on any night of the week with minimum or no cover charge at all.
For a premium salsa experience, make sure to visit El Mulato Cabaret. Here you can watch a show by professional Salsa dancers that have worked with international celebrities on their tours. The interior of El Mulato cabaret is very plush and glitzy. The two-story venue can hold up to a thousand people and you can have dinner and drinks while watching the show. The dancers are exceptionally skilled. Everything from the costumes to the lights and acrobatic flexibility of the performers must El Mulato Cabaret an absolute must-visit for when in Cali. Tickets usually start at less than $20 USD (or around 70,000 COP), which is very low considering the presentation and level of talent by the Swing Latino group. Make sure to book in advance because tables fill up quickly.
Cat lovers will find the Rio del Gato park particularly interesting. There are about 20 cat sculptures by different artists, each presented in a unique theme and a wide array of colors. There isn’t much context behind this random park dedicated to felines, but each statue is whimsical and unique.
Cali is also famous for its zoo, which is one of the best in Colombia and South America. Here, you can spend hours looking at exotic birds and flamingoes, different species of fish and reptiles, as well as striped tigers. The animals come from the region, as well as other parts of the world. Entrance is only 50,000 COP, but make sure to come earlier in the morning because the outdoor heat can be overwhelming in the afternoon.
Giant Jesus statues are not only found in Rio de Janeiro. Cali has its own 26-meter Jesus statue on a hill overlooking the city that dates back to 1953 and is surrounded by a public park. During my visit, the site was closed for renovation. The best time to visit Cali is in late December when the city holds its annual Feria de Cali on the last week of the year with colorful parades that celebrate salsa dancing and the city’s cultural traditions.
In addition to historic San Antonio and the river promenade, the best places to eat are in and around the Galeria Alameda market. The seafood comes right from the nearby pacific and you can sample many different varieties of exotic fruit. Here you can have some of the best seafood casseroles in coconut milk, served with rice and plantains for as little as 30,000 COP or $8 USD.
Cali may not directly seem as the prettiest city in Colombia. Still, it holds a special charm with some hidden and offbeat gems and a passion for music and dance. It does not Cali may have been eclipsed by the larger Medellin for years, but it is experiencing a renaissance and is currently the city with Colombia’s fastest growing economy. After some decades of relative obscurity, the city is back in full swing and is waiting to be rediscovered.
Cali was the ending point of my month-long trip around Colombia’s interior, which I planned to do (and mostly succeeded to) by bus. From Cali, I had the option of taking the bus for about 12 hours or flying for just one hour. I chose the latter. By then, I was looking forward to going back to Bogota and back to a routine. From a first glance, all cities along the Andean range in central Colombia may seem somewhat similar in topography, but differ greatly in terms of the history and culture, the architecture and the people. Just twenty years ago, flying between cities was the only option. It would have been difficult to travel to these places by road due to poor infrastructure and the armed conflict that impacted vast amounts of the country’s territory. Nowadays, when planned well, a road trip around Colombia by bus is a safe, comfortable and scenic journey.
