Beyond Cartagena: A Mini Road Trip through Colombia’s Northern Caribbean Coast

In December 2023, I had been living in Bogota for six months. As the holidays were approaching, I was looking for some unique trip ideas within Colombia. I was also keen on exploring other cities in Colombia, apart from Bogota, where I could possibly live in the future. Having previously been to Cartagena as part of another trip, I chose to focus on other destinations along Colombia’s Caribbean coast.

I had heard positive things about Barranquilla from many sources, while it is not commonly known as a tourist destination. I decided that it was time for me to visit and see how livable this city in the department of Atlántico was, including a fair share of sightseeing and tourist activities. When I travel, I like to bundle a few nearby destinations together to make for a worthwhile trip. Barranquilla lies on the Caribbean coast, sandwiched between Santa Marta and Cartagena (where I visited on my first intro trip to Colombia). A few hours north of Barranquilla along the coast are the resort city of Santa Marta and the department of La Guajira, which is known for its unique natural wonders and indigenous culture. To make my trip complete, I booked 5 nights in Barranquilla, while continuing north by bus and spending 2 nights in Santa Marta and La Guajira, respectively.

1-Barranquilla, Atlántico: Capital of Carnival and Caribbean Commercial Hub

 Barranquilla, a city of 2 million, is the largest urban and commercial hub in Colombia’s north. It has the country’s fourth largest population. When it comes to tourism, Barranquilla is largely overlooked in favor of Cartagena, Colombia’s busiest international destination, despite only being two hours away by car. While both cities may have historical and cultural similarities, the economy of Barranquilla is much more focused on shipping and manufacturing. One major event in Barranquilla, however, draws scores of crowds nationwide and a few from abroad. Barranquilla’s annual carnival is the largest in Colombia and the second largest in South America, right after Rio’s.

 From Bogota, it was a 1.5-hour flight with Avianca and cost about 300,000 COP (or 80 USD). Barranquilla’s international airport is located in the southern municipality of Soledad. From here, it was about 30 minutes by taxi and about 50,000 COP to get to my hotel in Barranquilla’s central and historic El Prado District. While driving northward from the airport, it is easily noticeable how the southern parts of the city suffer from poverty and neglect. Some of the wealthiest parts of the country are located in Barranquilla, particularly in the north. Still, the wealth gap here is striking. As with most of Colombia’s metropolitan areas, Barranquilla is a tale of two cities.

My hotel, Hotel Majestic, did not disappoint. It is a gem of a mansion with a unique history and one the most beautiful hotel lobbies in Colombia. It has seen better days, and in a strange way, its faded glory is what adds to its charm. While by no means run down or sketchy, the rooms are dated and most of its features feel like the hotel is stuck in time, where today it is only a shadow of its former self. The staff were very friendly and the level of service was great. Barranquilla is an extremely hot city, and a swimming pool in by no means a luxury but a necessity. The staff kept the hotel pool open much later in the evening than other places typically do, which is a very thoughtful gesture.

Though the Hotel Majestic has an elegant art-nouveau exterior, it is the hotel lobby that makes it stand out. It is full of detail and character.

 It blends the best design details from the old world. There’s a gorgeous Andalusian courtyard-themed reception area, with geometrical design and ceramics adorning the wall, a central fountain and marble columns. The oriental flair feels like stepping into an Arabian Nights fairytale. Right next door, breakfast is served in a restaurant designed as a vintage French salon. The details are very plush and opulent, from the mosaic floors to the fine silverware and crystal chandeliers. The tables and chairs were directly imported from France, adding to a very sophisticated feel. It looks like a place designed to entertain French royalty. Today, many weddings, private ceremonies and photo shoots are held in this hotel. The Majestic hotel was founded by an Arab immigrant family over 60 years ago.

 There is a sizeable community of Lebanese and Arab immigrants in Barranquilla, many of whom came here as far back as the late 19th century. They are particularly prevalent in the textile trade. If you walk down some of the streets of central Barranquilla, you will see the Arabic namesake fabric shops that specialize in imported materials as well as local production. Barranquilla’s most famous person is Shakira, who also has some Arabic heritage. While she may not live in Barranquilla full time, there’s a statue in the city to honor her contribution to music at an international scale.

 The number one thing to do in Barranquilla is to visit the Carnival Museum. This three-story building houses a screening room that gives visitors background into the unique traditions of this annual parade and how it first came to be, mixing elements of African and Indigenous culture. As with most cities along the Caribbean coast, a large percentage of the locals hold African lineage. Many comical masks are on display here, as African slaves once disguised themselves in flamboyant costumes to mock their white owners. A recurring figure that you will see on display at the museum, and throughout Barranquilla in general, is the mask of Marimonda. Marimonda is a whimsical cross between an elephant and a monkey, and is one of the central characters in the carnival and Barranquilla tourism branding.

 The most impressive room in the museum houses all the dresses of the parade queens. At every yearly festival, one woman is elected as ‘Queen of the Carnival’ and is adorned in elaborate gowns that take months to make. The details of the dresses, sequins and feathers come in all colors. In this room, you can see all the actual dresses on display from the past century, along with a note documenting the year and the queen who wore it. The main floor of the museum has a life-sized replica of one of the flotillas used during the parade. Entrance to the museum is only about 25,000 COP (about $7 USD) and it was a short walk from my hotel in El Prado district.

 In the evening, when the sun has set, Barranquilla’s main congregation point is around the Malecón del Rio river boardwalk. It overlooks the Magdalena River, which offers a delightful breeze. The Cayman del Rio is a closed-air galleria around the boardwalk, with hundreds of food vendors in a food court style setting. Here, visitors can have a wide variety of local and international dishes, as well as ice cream and cocktails. There are at least around 50 options to choose from. The entrance to the Cayman del Rio food hall has a giant Cayman statue that glows at night, aptly designed after the Magdalena River’s most famous resident. My visit also coincided with the Holiday Season, with an outdoor craft market and giant Christmas trees illuminating the busy boardwalk.

 The heat in Barranquilla makes it nearly impossible to walk around outdoors when the sun is out. During the day, a lot of the activity takes place within air conditioned shopping malls. As the commercial center of Colombia’s north. There are dozens of new and shiny malls to choose from, with major retailers and restaurants offering a variety of local and international food.

 For those looking for a Caribbean-themed dining experiences with food and décor that is typical of the region, the best place to go is Cucayo, in the upscale Riomar neighborhood. The seafood here is very fresh, and the restaurant has a traditional market theme with colorful decorations and live performances. For a starter, I had Carimañola, a deep fried yuca fritter stuffed with cheese. My Cazuela de Mariscos bowl included chunks of fish, oysters and lobster in coconut milk, with rice and plantains on the side. Within a short distance, there are more bars and cafes in the area, which is located in the wealthy north and caters to a more exclusive segment of clientele.

 As with most cities in Colombia, safety can be a concern in Barranquilla, depending on the neighborhood which you stay in. El Prado and Riomar are wealthier, and are perceived as safer. Still, it is recommended not to wander off alone at night (unless in a big group), as well as using trusted taxi services and keeping valuables hidden and in a safe place.

 One fun activity that I got to participate in during my stay in Barranquilla was a nighttime ghost tour of the El Prado neighborhood, where I was staying. The walking tour was offered in Spanish for about 2 hours, with at least twenty other participants. As we made stopped around various city blocks and in front of specific houses, we got to hear about the true crime stories and superstitious phenomena that happened there. There are many luxurious traditional mansions in El Prado, many of which have been abandoned, some of which evoke an eerie feeling of something superstitious creeping by.

At the end of the tour, we got to enter one such mansion. The family that inhabited the mansion was originally from Germany, and many tragic events took place on the premises. While the architecture of the house is beautiful, the interior is now derelict, dark and sinister. There’s even an old car within the interior garage that was left there. It’s as if whoever lived there last vanished in their sleep or just ran away by foot in the middle of the night, pledging never to come back again.

My stay in Barranquilla was overall very pleasant and it was a good starting point from which to discover more of Colombia’s northern coast. It is a bustling city that is among the country’s wealthiest and most business-friendly. In comparison to nearby Cartagena, however, there is much less for a tourist here to do outside carnival season. In fact, I felt like I was the only foreigner in many of the places that I visited. Barranquilla is also scorching hot, which can be difficult for some visitors to get used to. Nonetheless, for those who are spending an extended period of time on visiting the Caribbean coast in Colombia, Barranquilla’s convenient location between Cartagena and Santa Marta makes it worth a short visit.

2-Santa Marta, Magdalena: Colombia’s Most Beautiful Beaches

 From Barranquilla, it was a two-hour journey north by bus to reach Santa Marta. Unlike in central Colombia, the bus terminals here aren’t as well developed, and are merely just stops along the side of the road. Still, this mode of transportation is reliable and will get you from city to city for under 40,000 COP or about $10 USD. I was dropped off at the bus stop along the highway in Santa Marta and took a taxi to my hotel in the Cabo de Tortuga zone.

 While not as famous as Cartagena, Santa Marta is the favourite beach holiday destination for Colombians. It is the capital of Magdalena Department, and has a population of just about half a million. While Santa Marta is actually Colombia’s oldest city, founded by Spanish conquistadors in 1525, its old town is not as beautiful as Cartagena’s. It also doesn’t have the abundance of luxury resorts that Cartagena does, the atmosphere here is much more mid-range and budget-friendly. However, it beats Cartagena by far when it comes to its beaches. They are the most beautiful beaches in all of Colombia, if not most of the Carribean as a whole.

 I booked my two-night stay at Playa del Ritmo Beach Hostel and Bar. For about 200,000 COP or $50 per night, I had my own room and an en-suite bathroom. The staff were very friendly and helpful, and the restaurant served good food and happy hour cocktails. The hotel was a bit far from ‘el centro’, about 15 minutes by car and 25,000 COP for a one-way taxi ride. However, the best part of Playa del Ritmo is that it has access to its own secluded and quiet beach. Cabo de Turtuga is hidden between tree-covered cliffs in a turtle shape, hence the name. The long stretch of beach is clean and unspoiled by scores of tourists (as with El Rodadero, Santa Marta’s main beach). The cape shelters the water from strong waves, making it a great place to swim. The views at Cabo de Tortuga are gorgeous at sunset as the high tide covers the white sand with a clear, shimmery water.

In the evening, I headed to the historical center. Most evening activity takes place around Parque de los Novios. Here, thousands of tourists walk along narrow alleyways with cocktail bars and nightclubs, as they are haggled by pushy vendors. A few of those little streets have old houses painted in bright colors, as well as murals and street art. Santa Marta’s Centro can be rough in some parts, so it is recommended to stick to well-lit streets and keep phones in pockets. A bit further down is a promenade along the city’s main beach, where many evening strollers meet to enjoy the evening breeze from the Caribbean. Most visitors choose to stay in this part of Santa Marta. With Playa del Ritmo Hostel and Bar, I was happy with my choice for a calmer, more secluded and safer area to stay in.

I had two big excursions planned for my stay in Santa Marta: The Tayrona National Park and the mountain town of Minca.

 The next morning, I took a taxi from the hotel and asked to be dropped off at the bus stop for Minca. It is located near a busy market. You can also take a taxi (for about 50,000 COP) or book an organized tour in advance. My decision to visit Minca on that particular day was ad-hoc because my planned tour for Tayrona was postponed. While the bus stop is located in a crowded and noisy area, it is a reliable and affordable way to get to up to Minca for only 8,000 COP. You also get a little discount for a two-way trip, so make sure to save your return ticket. The bus to Minca is actually a colectivo, or more like a large van. It can be uncomfortable if you can’t handle stuffy places. In that case, an organized tour or a private taxi is the best option.

 Minca is a small town of a few thousand inhabitants in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It is surrounded by a cloud forest and coffee plantations, some of which are the oldest in all of Colombia. Before the region of the coffee triangle, coffee cultivation started in the Sierra Nevada. The air in Minca is very fresh and the temperatures are slightly cooler than on the coast. For those with a few days to spare, it is absolutely worthwhile to stay in Minca. The sunrise here, overlooking the hills and onto the coast, is supposed to be legendary.

When you are dropped off in the center of town, you can visit a tour office or hire a motorbike driver to show you the around this jungle paradise.  If you arrive early enough, you can visit a birdwatching reserve and a butterfly garden. Since I got there by about 11 AM, it was already too late. My local guide took me to Minca’s Pozos Azules and Marinka waterfalls while I rode on the back of the scooter. The price of the moto taxi will depend on your destination, mine cost me 55,000 COP and the driver stayed with me for about 3 hours, including transportation and wait times.

 I saw some tourists try to walk up to the Pozos Azules natural pools, but considering how hilly the road is, it could take hours just to get there. To save time, hiring a moto taxi is much easier. There aren’t any ATMs in Minca and many places won’t accept card, so it is best to have enough cash. The main pool is sandwiched between two small waterfalls and has a turquoise blue water. You can rent a plastic chair to keep your belongings and buy drinks from a vendor’s hut there. There was a small group of tourists splashing around in the pool. The water is very clean and safe to take a dip in, but it is extremely cold. For those who choose to hike there through the tropical heat, there can be nothing better than dipping in an ice-cold natural pool when you’ve reached your destination.

 From there, it was another ride on the back of the scooter to get to the Marinka waterfalls. I was dropped off at the main entrance, and from there I had to climb a very steep hill to reach the park. It costs 10,000 COP to enter, which is very reasonable considering how well-maintained it is. Here, you can see two levels of the waterfalls with wooden stairs and several observation points. There are also giant hammocks where you can lie down while taking in the breathtaking views. The bottom waterfalls also forms a natural pool that is perfect for swimming, albeit the ice cold water.

Minca, once a very sleepy town, has grown in popularity among tourists and backpackers recently. There are many hostels and small coffee farms where you can stay. The center of the town has many cute cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops. From here, many people explore Ciudad Perdida. From here, adventure seekers can embark on a four-day trail around the Sierra Nevada mountains to discover La Cuidad Perdida, or the Lost City. It is an archeological wonder that lies deep within the jungle that predates Macchu Picchu by about 600 years. Not much is known about the original inhabitants and the civilization that once thrived here, as the city died out after the arrival of the Spanish colonizers. Today, their descendants, the Kogi people continue to inhabit the Sierra Nevada mountains. They are noted for their shiny black hair, which is kept long by both men and women, as well as all-white costumes. To this day, the Kogi live in relative isolation up in the mountains and practice their ancestral religion. They live in perfect harmony with nature and are only allowed to wear white, as white represents the purity of nature.

The next day, I went on another exciting day trip from Santa Marta. Perhaps the primary reason that tourist come to Santa Marta is to visit the Tayrona National Park. There are several ways to get to Tayrona, depending on how much time you have. You can get there by bus, taxi or speedboat. It is important to keep in mind that the park is closed to visitors during three distinct periods of the year, with the dates depending on the year. Tayrona is home to several Indigenous communities, including the Kogi, Wia and Kankaumo. The land is sacred to the tribes that inhabit it, and the closures take place to honor their special holidays and celebrations – depending on when they fall each year.

 I had pre-booked a tour to Tayrona with my hotel, for about 200,000 COP or $50 including the entry fee to the park. Prices depend on the destination beach in Tayrona, with Cabo San Juan being the farthest and more expensive destination. In the morning, I was dropped off by my taxi in El Rodadero. From there, a small group of us got into a speedboat for a 45-minute journey. The waves were strong and the ride was very bumpy. The views on our way to Tayrona were fantastic, as the tropical green cliffs met the Caribbean Sea.

 Tayrona National Park combines the Sierra Nevada Mountains with pristine waters, as they intersect and form many unspoiled beaches along the coastline—each with their own distinct beauty. The most popular of those beaches is Cabo San Juan. It is hard not to marvel at the turquoise blue water and white sand beach, which is hugged giant and geometrically perfect rocks. Upon arrival, there is a hut built in traditional Tayrona style from which visitors can observe the beach below, and the mountains in the back. As though by perfect symmetrical design, Cabo San Juan’s dual coastline. The beach is separated by a narrow stretch of sand, is what makes it stand out, and a favorite among tourists. Here, there is no shortage of postcard worthy photos to take from all angles. Its only downside is that it can get crowded, especially during peak times and holidays.

An easily manageable 20-minute walk from Cabo San Juan through bushes and groves, you can arrive at a much more private beach. Playa Piscina is much quieter than its bigger neighbor, and I was there completely by myself for about 15 minutes, having the beach all to myself. At Playa Piscina, the water is very still and shallow, hence the name. While it is important to note that swimming in many of Tayrona Park’s Beaches is not allowed, the water in Playa Piscina and Cabo San Juan are perfectly safe and enjoyable to swim in.

 Some visitors to Tayrona choose to stay overnight to explore the large park at a more leisurely pace. There are many hiking trails, and those with a few hours to spare can enter the park at the bus stop and hike to the coastline through lush forests. At Cabo San Juan, as well as other points in the park, there is a camping ground complete with tents, bathrooms and showers.

There is a large restaurant serving a variety of dishes and seafood, as well as shops selling drinks and snacks. Being the most popular of all of Tayrona’s beaches, this is where you will find most amenities for visitors, as well as a first aid and rescue team. Everyone is required to purchase medical insurance for 5,000 COP, paid in cash upon arrival. Cards are not accepted anywhere in the park, and there is no phone or data coverage.

Your Own Private Beach at Playa la Piscina

The water in Cabo San Juan is perfect for swimming and the temperature is just right. I did not encounter any seaweed or pollution on the afternoon that I spent there. Apart from swimming and lying on the beach, there are also scuba diving activities offered at Tayrona Park. As a national treasure of Colombia, it is one of the points with the highest levels of biodiversity in the world, with rich marine life, bird and reptile species, primates and many other unique types of animal and plant species.

Santa Marta is a gorgeous beach holiday destination that couples, solo travelers and families can all enjoy. It is much more budget friendly than Cartagena, and what it lacks in historical sites of interest it makes up for with the beauty of its beaches. A 4-5 day itinerary is ideal to spend in Santa Marta to ensure enough time to visit Minca and Tayrona National Park, which should be planned in advance and with buffer days in case of delays and cancellations.

From Santa Marta, I embarked on another bus journey to the northernmost tip of Colombia, the department of La Guajira.

3-La Guajira: The Edge of South America

 La Guajira peninsula is one of Colombia’s most remote, sparsely populated and fascinating regions. It is located on the farthest tip of the northern Caribbean coast and shares a border with Venezuela. It is famous for its original inhabitants, the Wayuu, as well as its desert landscape, where the sand dunes reach the sea.

After a two-hour scenic journey, I arrived in Riohacha, La Guajira’s largest city. The town itself is dusty, stuffy and does not offer much in terms of tourism. There is a beachside promenade and just a handful of historical buildings. Riohacha is mainly used as a base from which to explore the outer region of Alta Guajira. It is the last place to offer reliable internet, city infrastructure, banks and ATMs and hotels with modern amenities.

 I booked a 2-night stay at the Bona Vida Hostel, with my own room and exterior bathroom. The place was really clean, with hospitable staff and a swimming pool. Best of all, my room had strong air conditioning and a bar with ice-cold cocktails for happy hour. The heat in Riohacha is overbearing, so I felt especially lucky to have access to modern accommodation and a comfortable bed to sleep in. The living conditions here are tough, and they get more and more hostile as you travel north.

 La Guajira is by no means a luxury tourist destination. Visitors to this part of Colombia are warned in advance to not expect modern-day comforts. Over the years, more and more backpackers and adventure seekers have been coming here to learn about the Indigenous Wayuu culture and to explore the natural wonders of Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas further to the north. In a somewhat similar way to my experience in the Amazon, La Guajira is a place to visit once in your life and cross of your bucket list, with little likelihood of visiting ever again.

Upon checking in at the hotel, I took a short nap and got ready for my first experience of the day, an afternoon visit to a Wayuu rancheria. Riohacha and La Guajira peninsula today is inhabited by a mix of Mestizos, Afro-descendent Colombians and Indigenous Peoples. It is the Wayuu, who have inhabited this region throughout history, who has left the biggest mark on the local culture. Today, the Wayuu comprise the largest percentage of Indigenous inhabitants in Colombia. Their persistence to preserve their traditional way of life has survived to this day, albeit in some of the most difficult circumstances in the whole world.

The Wayuu are a collectivist society, where up to several families share a single rancheria. About a 30-minute drive outside Riohacha, I visited one such place. The houses are very basic one-room structures. There is a a central courtyard and shaded, makeshift wooden huts where tourists are seated, in addition to a small stall to sell local handicrafts. Food and clean water here are very scare. Most Wayuu rely on goat herding for food, and the coastal rancherias (such as the one I visited) also practice fishing. Visiting a rancheria is a very humbling experience that is a stark reminder of how modest some people’s lives are.

Colombia’s most sought-after artisanal item, the mochila bag, is handmade by Wayuu women. What makes the item so popular are the colorful patterns that are inspired by local mythology. Buying a mochila handbag here is more affordable than anywhere else. The profits directly benefit the source, in this case the bag weaver, and it is often the only source of income for many local residents. Prices start from as little as 50,000 for the smaller bags and less than 150,000 COP for the larger ones. Each mochila bag comes in vivacious colors and none of the patterns on display were identical.

A Senior Wayuu Couple at the Rancheria

Colombia granted La Guajira relative autonomy, and many municipalities are self-governing. There is no police force as the community members and elders deal with crime and punishment. Still, corruption is very rampant and funds from the central government are often misused. To this day, sadly, there are disproportionately high levels of poverty, infant mortality and malnutrition in La Guajira.  I sat with a local guide, a member of the community, who talked to me with pride about his people’s culture, customs and folklore. Rural Wayuu communities mainly observe their folk religion, which guides all personal matters. The age of marriage is typically very early and the dead are buried with their personal belongings, then their bodies exhumed 5 years later.

Bird Dance Performers

 Afterwards, I watched a courtship dance called La Yona (or the bird dance) which the clans perform to honor guests. The female dressed in a colorful flowy caftan glides in birdlike move. The male dances backwards before her to the beat of drums. They perform this dance in circles until the male falls to the ground. This type of dance is usually performed when women reach the age of maturity and have to pick male suitors.

I was picked up by the driver at the ranch as the sun was setting. I had some ice-cold cocktails at the hotel bar with some fellow travelers as we shared interesting stories about our road trips. I had to wake up very early the next morning and was in bed by 9 PM.

The next morning, I was in my hotel lobby at 5:30 AM waiting to be picked up by my tour. The hotel staff were kind enough to pack my breakfast on the go. We had a very long journey ahead to reach Cabo de la Vela, and I was particularly looking forward to this last step on my Caribbean trip. A four-hour drive north awaited us.

While many visitors choose to stay at least one night in Cabo de La Vela (before continuing to Punta Gallinas), I preferred to do it all in one long day trip. I decided that I did not want to trade my air-conditioned room in Riohacha for something much more basic. Otherwise, I would have had to sleep in a hammock at a distant rancheria overnight, with barely any amenities.

Manaure Salt Mines

Most tours advertise a trip to Cabo de La Vela (with Punta Gallinas optional) as at least a 2-day excursion. Prices vary, but typically start at 750,000 COP or just about $200 USD for all-inclusive tours with food, transport and accommodation. More in-depth tours of 3-4 days can cost up to 2 million COP. I was lucky enough to find a day trip online with same-day return for just about 300,000 COP. It is crucial to not go to that part of Alta Guajira alone, as it is impossible to reach without a knowledgeable guide and a well-equipped 4X4. There have been instances of tourists venturing out alone and vanishing in the desert.

Our first stop outside Riohacha was the salt mines of Manaure. Here, salt is extracted from salt pools in the ground. The color of the pools is sometimes colored pink by algae from the sea. They are then stacked in a pyramid shape and left to dry in the sun. There is a small shop selling salt-based products – everything from sauces to salt body scrubs and salted chocolate.

Then, we stopped at the town of Uribia (also known as ‘the Indigenous Capital of Colombia’). This is the very lost point with urban infrastructure and shops to stock up on water for the road. Water is a prized treasure in this part of the world, and you could end up spending hours in thirsty in the desert heat if not planned well. Many visitors to Cabo de La Vela also buy water and snacks for the locals there from a Uribia. I had previously seen travel videos and news reports about the severe shortages of essential items in the north of La Guajira, so I made sure to allocate a budget to buy water, bread and snacks for the children there. I bought as much as we could fit in the car.

La Guajira is divided into three parts: forested Baja Guajira, Media Guajira with minimal vegetation and Alta Guajira, which is entirely covered in a desert. As we left Uribia, it was Alta Guajira from there on. The roads vanished as we drove entirely on sand and the trees got smaller and dried, where only shrubs remained. The terrain became completely barren. The ride was extremely bumpy for what seemed like hours on end. Driving here requires a high level of skill and knowledge of the area. It is not uncommon for even the sturdiest cars to get stuck, which is why cars often travel in droves, following one another in case of emergency.

 On our way to our destination, the local kids set up impromptu roadblocks asking for food or many. Many children ran up to our 4X4 and we distributed supplies of food and water from the window. There were much more children coming up to us than I had expected. Overall, it was a very confronting experience. The level of poverty here is the worst I had ever seen.

By about 11 AM, we reached Cabo de La Vela. It is a small settlement of a few hundred people at most, including the tourists and backpackers that stay overnight in the rancheria guest houses. There is also one restaurant and some stalls selling mochila bags. The main reason why outsiders come here is the picturesque landscape. The cape’s beach, Playa Dorada, can be accessed by a set of stairs, the sand is red and the water is easy enough to swim in. It is this combination of turquoise blue Caribbean Sea intersecting with the red sand that makes Cabo de La Vela one of the most unique places in the world. The views here are stunning as you take in nature’s range of shapes and colors.

 The cape is sacred to the Wayuu, and once you climb up the hill sheltering the cape (known as Pilon de Azúcar) you can see a monument of the Virgin of Fatima, an example of the mixing of Catholic beliefs and traditional faith. A bit further away there is also a lighthouse not too far away called El Faro, which draws a small crowd around sunset.

For lovers of adventure sports, you can go kitesurfing and paragliding in Cabo de La Vela for very good rates. Those who stay overnight have the advantage of seeing sunrise and sunset over the cape. Cabo de La Vela is also known to be one of the best spots for stargazing. The clear dark skies put on a nightly show in this remote part of the desert, inspiring local legends and mythology. 

A few hundred meters away is another point of interest, Playa Arcoíris (or Rainbow Beach), a where the rocky terrain meets the sea. The waves splash against the rocks forming rainbow-like specs of color all kinds of shapes. The geyser-like phenomena fuels the imagination and misty splashes of water provide a much-needed coolness effect. The earth here is rocky, with a backdrop of azure blue waters, the red sand of the cape and deserted mountains at the end. I haven’t been to Mars yet, but I imagine that that is what it would look like.

After Cabo de La Vela, our last stop on the trip was Mayapo beach for lunch and an hour of swimming. Alta Guajira waters are famous for lobster fishing, but it was not available at the restaurant on that day, so I just had a plate of fried fish with salad and rice. The sand here is white as snow and it mixes beautifully with the blue of the sea. There were almost no waves and the sea was as still as a swimming pool. There were also very few people around, and the few of on the tour together had the beach to ourselves.

Those who have already made it as far Cabo de La Vela extend their stay in the desert to travel north to Punta Gallinas. Punta Gallinas is another tiny settlement with white sand dunes reaching into the ocean. From the pictures I have seen, it looks like a Salvador Dali painting. Nearby, there is also the Natural Park of Macuira, where the desert sits side by side with a lush green tropical oasis. However, if I were to travel further up north, it would’ve required an all-inclusive four-day trip and lots of endurance.

 By the time I reached the hotel, it was past 7 PM. I was with the tour and on the road for 14 or so hours. I can’t recall other times that I had been as excited to have the basic necessities of life, a bed and air conditioning. La Guajira’s natural beauty cannot be replicated. Still, the weather, harsh landscape and impossible living conditions faced by many in La Guajira leaves a long-lasting impression as well. La Guajira is not a comfortable travel destination, but those with enough patience to go until the end will be rewarded with priceless memories.

My 10-day road trip came to along the coast came to an end. The next morning, I took my LATAM flight (a much better option than Avianca for a comparable price) from Riohacha’s airport back to Bogota. It was Christmas Eve, and I was looking forward to the festivities taking place back in my adopted home at the time.