Colombia Intro Trip: The Land of Magical Realism and Biodiversity
The first time that I visited in South America was when I spent 2 weeks in Colombia. I eventually moved there, but this will be covered later on. This part is focused on my 2-week visit in February 2022. I had heard many great things about Colombia in the past, but naturally personal safety concerns always come up. I planned my trip really well and made sure to read up about safety precautions really when booking my trip.
Plaza Mayor in the Colonial Town of Villa de Leyva is Colombia’s Largest Public Square
Colombia is one of the eight most biodiverse countries in the world, and I wanted to sample different geographies and cultures—starting from the capital, Bogota. The landscape ranges from Caribbean in the north to desert in the northeast and Paramos (or moors) scattered at some of the highest elevations throughout the country, lush temperate forest in the interior Andean range to the Pacific Rainforest to the west and the Amazon Rainforest in the south—not to mention the Llanos (or Savannah) of the west and the occasional snow-capped mountains. The ecosystem of flora and fauna in Colombia is like nowhere else that you’ll experience.
Bogota: A High Andean Capital
Bogota, the capital city of Colombia, was my original point of entry and a hub for layovers as I explored the rest of the country. I took an Air Canada flight from Vancouver to Montreal, which landed at the Air Dorado International Airport located in the western part of Bogota. I had coordinated airport pickup from the hotel in advance to avoid any hurdles and to ensure a safe trip. Bogota, a city of over 8 million, is notorious for its bad traffic. Luckily, I arrived on Sunday morning, so I was at my hotel within 30 minutes. Visitors to Bogota must also keep in mind that the city sits at over 2,500 meters above sea level. This can result in mild shortness of breath and altitude sickness. It is best to postpone physically grueling activities such as hiking by about two days until accustomed to the elevation.
Bogota is One of the Highest Capitals in the World
Temperatures in Bogota range between 20 degrees Celsius at daytime and 10 digress Celsius at night. This is true at any time of the year as this particular geographical spot does not have seasons-so the climate is similar year-round. Being so high up, the sun in Bogota is very strong, so make sure to wear lots of sunscreen.
Corn, Avocado, Beans, Rice and Meat are the Main Ingredients of Colombian Dishes
My stay for my first two nights in Bogota was at the Casa Dann Carlton Hotel and Spa, located in the upscale neighborhood of Chico in Bogota’s north. Dann Carlton is a local chain of luxury hotels and my stay at the hotel was very pleasant. My room was nicely decorated and the breakfast buffet had a lot of variety. The hotel was located in a very safe area, the lobby was beautifully decorated, with a bar lounge. I was surprised to see that the security guards at the hotel had rifles on them—uniquely a Colombian experience.
Since I arrived on Sunday morning and was already eager for my first tour of my two-week trip. As a lover of handicrafts, I made sure to include a visit to the Usaquen weekend market. The best day to visit is a Sunday, as that is when most vendors set up shop on the pedestrian street. Shortly after check-in, I headed north to the area of borough of Usaquen to meet my guide for a private tour of the crafts market.
Colombia is a highly stratified society, with the north side of Bogota being much more affluent, safer and with more things to explore. It is highly recommended to stay in the northern part of the city—especially for first-time visitors. Usaquen is a beautiful and exclusive neighborhood that until a few decades ago was a separate city, considering its location on the northern tip of Bogota. As the population grew, the area was incorporated into the city. There are many beautiful vintage European style homes along elegant streets and alleyways with plenty of cafes and restaurants in Usaquen. It feels like its own little town within the big city. I met my guide Emilio at the Café Quindío artisanal coffee chain and we headed to the Sunday crafts market (sometimes referred to as ‘the flea market’ by the locals). Colombia is one of the world’s largest exporters of coffee, so be ready to drink lots of it when you visit.
The market consists of hundreds of stalls selling with vendors selling unique handicrafts from all over Colombia, representing the cultural and artistic diversity of this country. I picked up a few of Colombia’s most famous souvenirs, mochilas as gifts. They are very colourful hobo-style bags that are handwoven by the Wayuu Indigenous tribe in the northeast La Guajira region. Colombia is home to hundreds of Indigenous communities, each with their own distinct stories and art. For lovers of tribal masks like myself, there are ample varieties to choose from. I bought some tribal masks from the markets to decorate my home and as gifts. Also, I stopped at one of the market’s most unique stalls that sold handmade decorative wall items that replicate the many doors of Colombia’s colonial homes in very fine detail and choose three items there. During my visit to Colombia, the economic crisis in neighboring Venezuela was at its peak. Some migrants had resorted to making decorative objects out of Venezuelan Bolivar bills, as the currency had become virtually worthless. I picked up one of those souvenirs to support the artisans fleeing a tragic economic and social situation.
Usaquen’s Sunday market is an artisan lover’s paradise and offers novelty items and handicrafts that you might not find anywhere else in Colombia.
Usaquen is also home to the Hacienda Santa Barbara, which is a giant and quaint old hacienda that’s been converted into a shopping mall. While the stores inside are mostly dated, it is worthwhile to stroll through the corridors and enjoy a coffee on one of the balconies or the courtyard.
Ajiaco is a Warm Soup from the Bogota Region with a Mild Flavor. Colombians Don’t Use Many Spices.
After day at the shops, and on my way back to the hotel, my tour guide arranged for a drive up the hills to enjoy some panoramic views of the city. Later in the evening, I met up with some friends who had been living in Bogota for some wine and cocktails at one of the rooftop bars in the posh Parque 93 area. The Parque 93 neighborhood, another one of north Bogota’s most exclusive addresses, is the perfect place to experience some of the city’s more glamorous restaurants and nightlife.
Despite what one might typically expect from Latin American food, Colombian food is pretty bland. Spices are very rarely used in local cuisine, with regional varieties. Avocados, rice, corn, beans and meat are served generously and portions are large. One food to try in Bogota is Ajiaco, which is a thick soup that is prepared with chicken, whole corn on a cob, avocados, potatoes and herbal garnishing. It can be enjoyed for breakfast or lunch at many family-run restaurants throughout the city. A full two-course meal in Bogota can cost as little as $4 at lunch spots catering to locals, and most feature a daily menu.
The next morning, my schedule was packed with sightseeing and tourist highlights. I met my tour group downtown for a walking experience of Bogota’s most famous landmarks.
Bogota was established in the mid 1500’s by Spanish Conquistadors and is one of the oldest cities on the content. Prior to that, the area was home to the Indigenous Muisca people. The core historical center is the La Candelaria area. To get there, you must first stop at the Plaza Bolivar downtown. Plaza Bolivar is an immense square housing Bogota’s largest cathedral and many monumental buildings and government institutions, including the Congress and the Palace of Justice, which was the site of an intense siege in the 1980s. Colombia’s recent history was marked by a decades-long civil war and narcoterrorism. However, the country has recovered immensely from this dark chapter and has embraced peace and a prosperous future.
Plaza Bolivar is Bogota’s Main City Square
La Candelaria is a hilly quarter with sturdy buildings dating back centuries. They are preserved to perfection and are adorned in bright colors which juxtapose with street art throughout the historic neighborhood. One of La Candelaria’s highlights is the Botero Museum. Fernando Botero is Colombia’s most celebrated painter and sculptor whose artwork (also known as ‘Boterismo’) depicts people, animals and objects in an exaggerated volume. His pieces are very colorful, fun and comical, and most of them are housed in this two-story museum.
La Candelaria is great to visit at daytime hours. At night, the area has a bad reputation. Afterall, it is located a bit south or in the center of the city, so visitors are advised to avoid the area in the evening. Nonetheless, it has many bars and cafes, as well as hostels. It could be a great experience to stay in one of the mansions-turned-hotels overnight as long as safety precautions are taken into account.
A Full City View from Monserrate
After La Candelaria we took a short walk across downtown for our next destination, Monserrate. We took the funicular up a very steep hill to reach the peak. More adventurous visitors can also hike up the few thousand steps to get to the top of the mountain. Once at over 3,000 meters above sea level, you can admire the best views of entire Bogota from the top. Monserrate has a lot of cultural significance for the people of Bogota, and Colombians in general, and is a well-known pilgrimage site and is often cited as the number-one thing to do for when in Bogota.
After descending the mountain, we had one more stop in our itinerary, the Bogota Gold Museum. While Emeralds are sometimes referred to as Colombia’s signature gemstones, the history of Colombia is also synonymous with El Dorado, and the abundance that the Spanish settlers pursued when they first reached the shores of Colombia and South America. Admission to the museum only costs 4,000 COP or roughly $1 dollar (or completely free on Sundays). It is a very meager price for the opulence that awaits visitors inside. The museum houses more than 30,000 golden artefacts from Colombia’s Pre-Hispanic cultures, where gold was used as currency and in ceremonial practices. The most valuable item is actually one of the smallest in the museum. It depicts a raft that chiefs of the Muisca tribe used in ceremonies in the nearby Guatavita Lake, which were often followed by the pilgrims throwing gold objects into the lake to honor their gods.
Most of Bogota’s highlights can be visited within 3-4 days.
If you have a full week in Bogota, make sure to visit the botanical garden. It is a great way to be introduced to Colombia’s variety of landscapes and different species of plants and flowers. Colombia is also one of the world’s leading exporters of roses, and there is a gorgeous rose garden there too. Entrance is about $6 for international guests, and you can easily spend a full afternoon there. The highlight of the botanical garden is the tropicalism, with a recreation of ecosystems like the Amazon and the Dessert inside large glass domes.
Considering Colombia’s rich biodiversity, the Paloquemao Market is one place to not be missed by lovers of exotic fruits and flowers. If you’re in Bogota on a weekend, try to catch the flowers wholesale market in the morning. Once inside, you can stroll through the many stalls selling fresh fruits and vegetables for a unique tasting experience. Colombia is home to over 1,000 types of fruit, many of which can only be found inside Colombia. You will likely find most of them at the Paloquemao Market.
There are many day trip ideas to take outside the city to have a more varied experience.
Guatavita Lake is the ideal day trip from Bogota and can be reached within less than 2 hours. It is located in the town of Guatavita in the nearby, mountainous department of Cundinamarca. The lake is famous for its history and symbolic importance to the Indigenous Muisca people and the legends of El Dorado. It can be reached after an intense 30-minute hike. Once at the top, visitors are rewarded with magnificent views of the legendary lake, with its emerald green colour and lush vegetation surrounding the lake. The town of Guatavita offers a pleasant stop to have a meal and enjoy some craft shops. Most of it was recently built in a colonial style as the main town was flooded by a reservoir incident in the 1960s.
Another popular day trip from Bogota, which is also found in Cundinamraca is the Salt Cathedral in the town of Zipaquira. Many visitors combine Gutavita and Zipaquira in one trip. The Salt Cathedral is an old underground salt mine that has been converted into a church with spectacular illumination inside. Despite its size and architectural importance to Cathedral Combia, I found the Salt Cathedral to be slightly underwhelming and not worth the 100,000 Peso (or $25 USD) admission. I wouldn’t visit Zipaquira’s Salt Cathedral on its own, but would only combine it with a stop at Guatavita Lake first for a more complete day trip from Bogota.
The Amazon Rainforest: Where Colombia Meets Peru and Brazil
Visiting Colombia without heading to the Amazon rainforest would have been unimaginable for me. The Amazon was one of the first things that came to my mind whenever I thought of Colombia. This immense forest, the largest in the world, falls within the borders of 7 neighboring countries such as Brazil, Ecuador and Peru. I made sure to include the Amazon region in the itinerary of my introductory trip to Colombia.
The Great Egret Species of Birds in the Amazon
Colombia’s Amazon region is only available by plane via the Airport in Leticia, the largest city in Colombia’s Amazonas department. Leticia’s airport has daily flights to and from Bogota. I took a 2-hour flight from Bogota on Avianca, Colombia’s national carrier. For those who want to discover this part of Colombia, it is absolutely imperative to book a tour with a licensed operator because they often come from the community, are trained and have the necessary equipment to ensure safe and enjoyable outdoor activities. I booked my 3-day visit to the Amazon with Amazonas Jungle Tours. My package included a two-night stay in the ecovillage of Puerto Narino, all meals and daily activities for about $350 USD, which was a bargain considering the packed itinerary. The package price did not include flights my first-day stay in Leticia.
Upon arrival in Leticia, I was met by the tour operator, Sergio, at the airport and driven to my hotel. I stayed at the Hotel Utuane, about a 5-minute drive outside the center of Leticia, and was given a bigger room upon check-in. The small hotel is beautifully decorated with traditional art from the region and comes with a pool, which is essential for daytime humidity and heat. My room was also decorated in an eco-lodge style, with a master bedroom below and several bunk beds on the second floor—plus a spacious balcony with lounge chairs and a screen for bugs and mosquitos. While a yellow fever vaccine (previously mandatory) to enter Amazonas is now optional, it is essential to stock up on mosquito repellent prior to landing in Leticia.
After taking a shower in ice cold water (note: there is no hot water in the region), I took a tuk-tuk to explore the town. The town of Leticia itself is not very pretty, with sub-par infrastructure and roads. Tuk-tuks are a common means of transportation in the city. When it rains in the Amazon, it’s not like any type of rain you’ll experience anywhere else. Make sure to have a slicker packed and be ready to wake up in the middle of the night at the sound of the heavy rain. It had been raining heavily for the past few days, and internet was off throughout the region during my 3-day stay. The only place where I could get a bit of spotty WIFI was at the Leticia community center and public library, a site of interest for visitors to Leticia. The center has a small museum showcasing the Indigenous cultures of the region, most notably the Tikuna tribe. The museum is made up of only one room, but it gives representation to all its communities with artefacts and ceremonial costumes on display.
Leticia’s Main Square is a Popular Spot for Birdwatchers around Dusk
Another point of interest and an absolute must for a traditional meal is the Tierra Amazonas restaurant, also located downtown. The restaurant is perhaps Leticia’s most popular and serves typical Amazonian cuisine, including fresh fish from the river and fruits and vegetables grown in the area. Tierra Amazonas is stylishly decorated, with colourful paintings depicting everyday life in the Amazon and with large fishnets hanging from the ceiling. The Amazon is home to many species of fish and vegetation that are unique to the river and rainforest area. I had an entre of ceviche with plantains, and filet of the Pirarucu fish with Yuca puree on the side. Visitors can discover more unique food varieties at the local markets.
There are also many shops selling handicrafts from local communities. These include many tribal masks in wood and tree fiber, decorative wooden objects and animal statues, jewelry and handbags—many sourced from natural ingredients and colored in natural dyes. Most shops only accept cash, but there are a few banks in the center of Leticia with ATM machines, so it is best to withdraw money before going to the shops and restaurants. I was also advised by my tour group to take cash out in advance for my next 2 nights in Puerto Nariño because there is no bank or ATM machine anywhere in the village.
Leticia’s most popular attraction is its main square, with a small church, as well as Parque Santander. It is a neat and well-kept park with a lotus pond and many of the plants endemic to the region. Towards sunset, between 5 PM and 6 PM, visitors and locals gather in the park to watch millions of singing Parakeet birds as they swarm and congregate over the park. It is a spectacular sight and sound experience that can only be lived in this magical part of the world.
The Amazon Connects Leticia to Manaus (Brazil) and Iquitos (Peru), the Regions Other Major Cities
Apart from that, there isn’t much to do in Leticia itself as it serves as entry point to the many smaller communities and outdoor adventures in Colombia’s Amazon. Shortly after sunset, I headed back to the hotel and prepared for an early night since I had to be up by sunrise to travel to my next destination.
In the early hours of the morning, I was picked up at my hotel and headed to Leticia’s port. Three major cities can be found along the Amazon River, Iquitos (Peru), Leticia (Colombia) and Manaus (Brazil)—stretching thousands of kilometers apart. The small port in Leticia serves as a stopping point for travelers making this long journey. It also serves nearby within Colombian borders communities that are only accessible by boat. We took a speedboat from Leticia to Puerto Nariño. The journey took about 90 minutes, including stops at small communes along the way. The river is the main lifeline of these communities and the speedboat is the only means of transportation that locals use to get in out of the city for work or running errands such as shopping.
The Amazon is Unlike Any Other Place in the World
Upon docking off at Puerto Nariño, I was met with my translator, Jaimie, who went above and beyond to make sure that I had a comfortable stay. The village of Puerto Narino has just over 5,000 inhabitants who mainly come from the local Indigenous communities. It is the first community in Colombia to have been designated an eco-village, where no cars or motorcycle are allowed. It is very clean, with virtually no rubbish in sight. The local houses are small and well-preserved, with lots of greenery and Indigenous statues around the small streets that connect the village. There is a grocery shop and a clinic by the harbor, along with some small souvenir shops, restaurants and a bar.
Also by the harbor is a daily market that takes place in the morning, where local produce such as lulus and yucas, as well as Amazonian fish are sold. It is one thing worth waking up early for while in Leticia because of the different varieties of food that can’t be found beyond this region. Most of the community’s social and cultural life takes place by the small harbor, and mainly in a basketball court built to withstand the rain. While people in Puerto Narino lead a simple life, they take pride in living off their land, keeping their village clean and permeating a positive environment that is distant from materialism, digital technology and modern-day concerns. In addition, they are very welcoming of the visitors who come to disconnect and learn about their community.
Can You Spot the Sloth?
After being taken to my modest hotel room for a nap, I got ready for my first activity. I met the other guests on my tour, a couple visiting from New York, and we were taken to a small speed boat where we rode for about 20 minutes to reach the community of San Antonio. While in very close proximity to Puerto Narino, San Antonio is actually located within Peruvian territory. We were given long rubber boots for a walk through the jungle, which lasted about 40 minutes until we reached the village. We were advised to wear long sleeves despite the heat and humidity to avoid insect bites. The walk was very pleasant but at times difficult due to the muddy terrain and the rough climate. We got to discover about the local plants, sample some local fruits and even got to see some sloths hiding in the trees.
We Crossed into Peru for Lunch
When we reached the tiny village, we were greeted by the community chief and given a tour of the village. The village is only made up of a few houses, with the only institutional building being a small school. We were then invited for lunch in a small but neat restaurant for a homemade meal and to sample Peruvian beer.
The Dress Code in the Amazon is Rubber Boots for the Mud and Long Sleeves Against the Mosquito Bites
Swimming among Pink Dolphins
After lunch, we went back on the boat for our next exciting adventure. A bit further out from the shore lies a peaceful lake called Lake Terapoto. The lake’s main attraction are the pink dolphins that can be spotted diving in and out of the water, but they did not approach our boat. Based on a local legend, a beautiful local Indian was transformed into a pink dolphins, and they are highly revered in local folklore. Another highlight of the lake is that the water is clean enough to swim, and taking a dip in the cool Amazonian water in the heat of the late afternoon was one of the highlights of my trip. Not many people can claim to have swam in the iconic Amazon river, and I got that crossed off my bucket list.
As we approached more shallow water around Terapoto Lake, we were in for another surprise. The river’s most famous inhabitants, the Piranha, live in shallow waters. We got to experiment with Piranha fishing, and our tour guide caught a few (with very careful fingers to avoid the avoid the notorious Piranha bite) before releasing them back in the water. As dusk approached, we were treated to one of the most gorgeous sunsets that I have seen. The sky and clouds radiated against the clear water, as the sun and sky changed clouds gave a spectacle of colors coming blue, pink, yellow and gray hues.
Upon reaching Puerto Narino, we had a light dinner together before heading back to bed early. There is virtually no nightlife in Puerto Narino, and those who get up early make the most of their Amazon experience.
The next morning, we walked around the village and headed up to an observation deck that has a stunning 360 view of the river and the community. After lunch, we went back to the river and found another spot where we could swim and cool off. Later in the afternoon and until sunset, I went canoeing through the shallow waters and mangroves with my tour guide, he spoke the Tikuna language fluently and shared some of his community’s legends and anecdotes on how his community has evolved over the past few decades to keep pace with mainstream Colombian society.
The Village of Puerto Narino from Above
I woke up early in the morning for my last day in the Amazon to take the speedboat from Puerto Narino to Leticia, and board onwards on a flight to Bogota. Before heading to the airport, I was in for one more surprise. The tour operator picked me up at the port and drove straight on to the nearby town of Tabatinga. Once there, we stopped at a small riverside bar that had its signs and menu displayed in Portuguese. We had actually entered Brazilian territory just by driving 10 minutes outside Leticia. From the patio of the bar one can see the shores of three countries (Brazil, Colombia and Peru) as they closely converge along the river. This area is called Las Tres Fronteras, or The Three Borders – and one can visit all three countries within one day.
Three Borders: I’m Standing in Brazil. To my right You Can See Colombia, and Peru is across the Lake
While the Colombian Amazon is skipped by most tourists on their first visit to Colombia and is generally not as accessible as other regions, it is highly recommended to allocate 3-4 days to visit this area as it is one of the most tranquil, unique and biodiverse part of the whole world.
As I travelled around Bogota, my flights departed from Bogota. I spent two more nights in Bogota before heading to my next destination. This time, I stayed at the Movich hotel in Chico 97. It is another upscale hotel located in a very desirable neighborhood, with very comfortable rooms and great service operated by the Movich chain. Recently, it has been rebranded to Hotel Chico 97 and is no longer run by Movich. This time in Bogota, I kept my itinerary open and spent my time with friends, exploring bars and restaurants, in and hanging out in popular shopping and entertainment spots like Usaquen and the Andino mall.
Cartagena: One of the Caribbean’s Prettiest Cities
Cartagena’s Historic Walled City with Modern Bocagrande in the Background
Cartagena, or officially known as ‘Cartagena de Indias’, is Colombia’s premier destination for international visitors. Sitting right on the Carribean sea, this city is one of the oldest in Colombia and served as a major port town for centuries as the continent’s riches sailed from here onwards to Europe. In fact, it was the first colony to gain independence from the Spanish Empire. Its gorgeous old town juxtaposes perfectly with the gleaming skyline of the luxury beachside area of Bocagrande. With its beaches, historical attractions within the walled city and warm, Caribbean culture, Cartagena attracts millions of tourists each year.
My flight to Cartagena northward from Bogota was with Avianca, the national carrier and took about 90 minutes in total. Cartagena is not a cheap destination. Most hotels in the city cater to honeymooners and luxury travelers. It was difficult to find a hotel in a good area for under $200 per night. I booked my 3-night stay in Cartagena at the Hotel Boutique Casa Cordoba Estrella. It is located right in the historical center, within what is popularly known as ‘the walled city’. For those who can afford it, the walled city is the best place to stay in Catagena. The hotels here are old mansions that have been perfectly restored and turned into hotels that capture the history and essence of this eclectic colonial city. Additionally, most attractions are located within the walled city and are easily accessible by foot. The walled city is the safest area of Cartagena. If you are staying outside the walled city, it is not recommended to wander out at night. Make sure to an uber or taxi if you plan to stay out late.
The Casa Cordoba Estrella hotel is a gem of a boutique hotel. It’s a beautiful mansion, complete with a courtyard, floor-to-ceiling antique mirrors, one of the most private beautiful libraries I’ve seen with early-edition books on ebony shelves, as well as a patio with a small pool and a view of the Cartagena Cathedral. My room was equally as impressive, with first-grade antique furniture, high ceilings and (most importantly) great air conditioning. Breakfast was served daily in the mansion’s gorgeous ebony dining room, which resembles something straight out of a design magazine.
For those seeking a beach-facing property, the shiny and modern neighborhood of Bocagrande offers many hotel towers operated by international and local hotel chains, with outdoor pools and beach access. As for those on a tighter budget, the hip neighborhood of Getsemani outside the walled city, has plenty of hostels, B&Bs and boutique hotel rooms for a slightly lower price.
The walled city is encircled by a robust stone fort that served to keep pirates and imposters away. Within the walled city (or the historical center) the hundreds of mansions and houses are large, well-kept and painted in vibrant colors. Most houses have elegant balconies with hanging plants and flowers. It is like something out of a Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel. Horse carriages are a popular way for tourists to get around the historical town and as you take in the beautiful surroundings, you could just expect an enamored Don Julio serenading his senorita from below as she stands on the balcony in her flowy red dress. The architectural beauty of every building within the walled city is stunning, and it is further extenuated by the shapes and details of the massive doors that guard each house. Each house has a unique shape and size for its knocker, and it is said that knockers represented status in Cartagena during colonial times – the bigger the knockers, the more important the family.
A Palenquera Posing for Tourist Photos
While in the old city, you are bound to be haggled by street vendors and people offering their services. After all, Cartagena is a very touristy city. The Afro-Caribbean community in Cartagena is very dominant, and most locals have African descent. While in Cartagena, you will see many Afro-descendant ladies in colorful flowy dresses with baskets of fruit that they carry over their head. These ladies hail from the nearby community of Palenque, hence are called Palenqueras. They leave their village every day and come to Cartagena to sell fruits and homemade sweets. Tourists must remember that if you want to take a picture with a Palenquera (one of those postcard-worthy photos while here), you absolute have to leave a tip. I actually got to visit their village during my stay in Cartagena.
It is worth mentioning that it gets extremely hot in Cartagena during daytime. Shorts and flip-flops are mostly fine. However, if you want to go to a more upscale bar or restaurant, it is mandatory to dress accordingly. A nice polo shirt and loafers are fine. The clothing boutiques in Cartagena are outstanding. Here you can find some of the most beautiful resort wear from local designers, at a range of prices. I was really impressed by the variety, fabrics and colors at the shops. There are also tons of places to pick up a souvenir to bring back home (while prices are definitely higher than in other Colombian cities).
Walking on the Remnants of the Old Wall
The Cartagena Cathedral is the tallest structure within the walled city. The construction of the church dates back to the 16th century when it was built to replace a much simpler church. Its façade is adorned in beautiful detail and it stretches out with a slim, round dome. Looking up at the location of the cathedral helped navigate the streets of the historical center. It also faces the clock tower, another landmark at the gates of the walled city, linking it to the Getsemani neighborhood. The clock tower lights beautifully at night, and many evening activities take place in the square surrounding it.
My hotel was located right by a very cozy bookstore called Abaco books, which also served coffee and beer. I got to make friends with Lindsey, a photographer and another solo traveler from the States and we got to do some activities in Cartagena together. Another must-do in Cartagena is walking along (or literally on the fortified wall) surrounding the city. It stretches at least a kilometer and has a popular café towards the end where visitors can have a cocktail and watch the sunset. Many buildings can be admired from this angle, such as the Teatro Colon, which is painted in a pastel pink and whose color reflects beautifully at sunset.
In the evening, we talk a walk around Getsemani. The neighborhood is full of colorful graffiti and street art, as well as many painters who gather there to sell their art. Unlike the walled city, the heritage houses in Getsemani are more humble, but are decked in many kinds of vibrant street art. Back in the day, houses of the nobility were mostly within the walled city. Meanwhile, the servants lived in Getsemani. Cartagena also has a dark history with the slave trade due to its strategic location. Social inequality in Cartagena remains, with at least 40% living below the poverty line. However, tourists staying inside the walled city or in Bocagrande do not get to see that (hidden) side of Cartagena.
No trip to Cartagena is complete with a day at the beach, and the best beaches lie outside the city. The next day, I found a driver to take Lindsey and I to the Playa Blanca beach on Isla Baru, which was about an hour’s drive from the city center. Isla Baru is connected to the mainland by a bridge. The island itself is very underdeveloped, with very basic amenities. The beach, however, is gorgeous. The white sand meets the turquoise water along a long stretch, and the water is just the right temperature for swimming. It is what one would expect from a Caribbean experience as featured in tourist brochures. Prepared to be haggled as swarths of vendors offer you chair and umbrella rentals, souvenirs and lots of other things.
Caribbean Blue on White Sand at Playa Blanca
The beach is also quite crowded, but we found a spot with less people. We ordered a fried Mojarra fish lunch and beer right there on the beach, which came with a very hefty markup. Make sure to look at menu prices thoroughly at Playa Blanca before ordering since this is one of Colombia’s premier scam spots.
While there is a lot of tasty seafood in Cartagena, try to avoid raw foods since the quality of the water here is questionable. One of the highlight things to do in Cartagena, as featured on Airbnb Experiences, is to hire a photographer for scenic portraits along the beach or the old town. I got to have a beach photoshoot for free, having made friends with a professional photographer while in Cartagena.
Cartagena is Colombia’s Most Popular Destination with International Visitors
I ended the day at the Mirador Gastro Pub for some cocktails. This multi-level bar is ranked the best rooftop bar in Cartagena, and is one of the busiest. It offers a great view of the square surrounding the Clock Tower. The cocktails I ordered came beautifully presented.
My tour for the next day consisted of a visit to the nearby village of Palenque, which is the home of the Afro-Colombian in colorful dresses who sell fruit in town. The village has a lot of historical significance since it had been the first village established by freed slaves in the New World. The establishment of Palenque, or formally known as San Basilio de Palenque, dates back to the 17th century. My tour guides picked me up from near the hotel, and we drove for about an hour. The half-day tour cost about $120 USD, which is on the pricier side. Still, one can only take the tour with members of the community and it is imperative to visit Palenque to get fully immersed in the culture of the Caribbean and Afro-descendent Colombians.
Palenque is a Mini Africa in South America, Complete with its Own Language
Palenque is like a little piece of Africa in Colombia. So much so, that the locals have preserved their local language, mixed it up with Spanish and came up with their own unique language. The Palenqueros used their made-up language to outwit their white masters. Throughout the village, there are colorful murals displaying phrases in the local language, which has survived to this day. Another way that the Palenqueros outsmarted their masters was by braiding their hair as codes, with each unique style used to communicate secret message. We got to learn about the community’s hair braiding techniques through pictures at a village gallery.
The infrastructure in the village are pretty elementary and signs of neglect are obvious. There is a main square with a church and a statue of the village founder, as well as some tiny shops and small museums. The population is quite small, and you can see some local women in their costumes selling fruits and sweets and posing for pictures with the visitors.
Local Women Make and Sell Very Tasty Sweets
Music has also been a big part of the local community for generations, heavily influenced by African drums. Palenque has produced male and female musicians who have toured the world. As part of our visit, we were also invited to watch the village’s dance troupe and later join the dancers, who put a lot of effort into their routine.
Additionally, we visited a small museum that is a replica of a traditional Palenquera house, with rooms displaying architectural techniques to keep the heat and rain away. We were also treated to a traditional medicine ritual, with an introduction to local herbs and remedies. Our last stop was a lunch prepared by local chef Flor Salas, who has won prizes internationally for her unique recipes that honour her land and ancestors.
While the village of Palenque may not be the most aesthetically elevated experience, it is a must-visit for culture enthusiasts for its historical significance. In the evening, I had booked another Airbnb Experience for a salsa dancing class at a cabaret. However, after a long day of walking in the sun I found it difficult to dance along to the professional instructor and chose to have a drink and just watch the others dancing.
The Slave Trade and Spanish Inquisition are a Dark Chapter in Cartagena’s History
My time in Cartagena had come to end. I had an afternoon flight back to Bogota. One more stop I made in the morning was to the Palace of the Inquisition and the Naval Museum. Housed in an imposing structure, the Palace of the Inquisition displays documents and artefacts from a dark period of the city’s history, when the Spanish Inquisition spread to the colonies and lasted for over 200 years. While the building itself is architecturally beautiful, it harbors a very dark energy. In the courtyard, there is a large installation of an actual Guillotine. Additionally, the torture devices used against the victims (often minority groups) are displayed in the museum.
Another centrally-located museum I got to see before my flight was the Maritime Museum. It honors Colombia’s navy and features life-sized installations of Spanish ships, a pirate ship and modern submarines. Visitors can enter some of them, sit behind the stirring wheel and enjoy the interactive games and displays. Lovers of maritime history would really enjoy this museum.
Villa de Leyva: Colombia’s Most Elegant Colonial Town
I have to admit, I often enjoy the mountains more than the coast, especially when it comes to old villages. Like with Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos, Colombia is famous for its mountainous villages that inspired many writers. The undisputed queen of colonial towns in Colombia is Villa de Leyva. Situated in the nearby Department of Boyaca, and only a 3-hour drive from Bogota, it makes for the perfect getaway from the city. I had researched done extensive research on Colombia’s colonial villages, and naturally chose Villa de Leyva for its proximity to Bogota. Upon returning to Bogota from Cartagena, I stayed one more night at Hotel Chico 97.
A Room with an Epic View
In the early morning, I took an Uber to the Terminal Norte bus station to catch my bus to Villa de Leyva. There terminal is very orderly, with many operators and routes throughout Colombia. I took a direct, one-way ticket for only 40 COP, about $10. The bus ride was comfortable and offered scenic views of the countryside. I also booked one of the most comfortable and charming hotel rooms that I had stayed in. My choice for a hotel for 2 nights was the Hotel Plaza Mayor. The Junior Suite that I stayed it came with a gigantic bathroom, a terrace overlooking the main square and town cathedral, and its own fireplace—All for less than $80 USD. The room had quality wooden furniture and was decorated in a regional country chic style, and the hotel grounds and courtyard were equally as beautiful.
The Battle of Boyaca in 1819 Lay the Foundations for Colombia’s Independence from Spain
Villa de Leyva’s iconic main square is the largest in Colombia and one of the largest on the whole continent. The Our Lady of the Rosary Cathedral dates back to the early 1600s and looks absolutely beautiful against a mountains backdrop, as seen directly from my balcony. As the sun reflects on the leafy mountains behind the church, it is one of the most beautiful juxtapositions of nature with breathtaking architecture.
Colombians Love Soups, Even for Breakfast
There are several restaurants and cafes in the main square and along the many adjacent cobblestone streets that make up the elegantly preserved old town. Sitting at a very high elevation, it does get cold in Villa de Leyva-especially in the evening. The regional cuisine of Boyaca is famous for its potato soup, stews and locally-produced Paipa cheese. You can also try a cocoa leaf drink at one of the artisanal cafes in town to help with the high elevation.
As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Villa de Leyva is home to many museums, in addition to outdoor activities. 2 museums located in the old town are the Captain Antonio Ricaurte House Mueum, a small military museum with a collection of weapons and artifacts from colonial times, and the Luis Alberta Acuna Museum-which exceeded my expectations. Luis Alberto Acuna was a painter and sculptor whose house has been converted to a museum. His works include paintings, murals and tapestry that are very colorful and mix Indigenous and European influences. There are about 5 display rooms and a courtyard with very creative and surreal animal sculptures. Entry to the museum is about $4, and lovers of surreal experiences will really enjoy this unique and eccentric house.
Other museums located outside town include the Paleontological Museum and the Fossil Museum, with prehistorical excavations and dinosaur bones. I also planned to visit the terracotta house, the largest single piece of pottery in the world. It was closed on that day but I managed to see it from the outside and take some pictures.
Another local attraction that I was hoping to explore but which was closed at the time was the Iguaque National Park, a Paramo that is famous for its beautiful lake. While in Colombia, it is an absolute must to visit a Paramo (or a Moor) because this ecosystem can only be found in this part of the world—with national parks and sanctuaries scattered across the Andean region of Colombia. I did, however, manage to visit a local farm at a sub-paramo altitude. The hike was very strenuous, but the views offered did not disappoint. I also got to learn about some of the plants that grow in this ecosystem. Villa de Leyva’s semi-arid climate also makes it a winegrowing region, which is very for Colombia. A popular tourist attraction is the local Ain Karim winery. I didn’t get to visit the winery, but you can sample some of their products at the local bars.
One more stop I made while in Boyaca was the nearby town of Raquira, which is famous for being the artisanal capital of Bogota. The town offers many photo opps with its colorful buildings lined with local handicrafts and souvenirs. It is a famous center for pottery, as well as woven hammocks and ruanas, or the Colombian version of the poncho.
For those staying in Bogota with a few extra days to spare, a trip to Boyaca and particularly Villa de Leyva offers a great escape that combines culture and nature. It is a favorite retirement spot among locals, and comes alive with visitors over the weekend with plenty of hotel and glamping options for the more adventurous travelers.
After two full weeks experiencing this highly diverse country, my trip to Colombia had come to an end. I stayed one more night in Bogota before returning to Canada. While I had many reservations over safety concerns as a solo traveler in Colombia, my stay here went smoothly and exceeded my expectations. A year later, I ended up living and working in Colombia, and got to experience much more of it.
Colombia Pros:
· Immense biodiversity
· Ideal for all budgets
· Cultural activities
· Lots of internal flights and reliable bus routes
Colombia Cons:
· Negative perceptions due to country’s history
· Extra safety precautions are recommended
· Language barriers
· The food may taste bland to some visitors
