At a first glance, Türkiye is hard to place. Is it in Europe or Asia? Culturally, this mid-sized country blends modernity with tradition, as evident in the architecture and society. There is lots of contrast that can be seen between its regions, cities and even within one city itself – this especially the case for Istanbul, whose history has been shaped by the many influences that shaped its history. I got to spend a whole month traveling around the country in October 2024. Since I got to venture out as far as Eastern Anatolia, I labelled this article as part of my ‘Middle East’ travel diaries.

Kars City Mosque and Armenian Church — *Kars City Sits in the Eastern Tip of Anatolia*

Antalya: Turkey’s Capital of Tourism on the Mediterranean Riviera

Antalya Mediterranean Sea Beach — *Mediterranean Blue*

Our journey began in the Mediterranean city of Antalya. As one of the country’s leading tourist hubs and a world-renowned ‘sun and sand’ destination, it is serviced by a large international airport with direct flights to most European and middle Eastern countries. Once a very affordable destination, Türkiye was struggling with very high inflation, which hurt tourists and locals alike. 1 USD was about 35 Turkish Liras.

We booked our stay for a week in Kaleiçi (pronounced as ‘Kaa-lei-shi’), Antalya’s historic old town. October is usually the start of low season, so accommodation rates are very reasonable. My room at the Kaleiçi Hotel, a small family-run boutique hotel, cost just under $50 USD per night. The hotel is an old villa, with a pool and homey backyard. It is located right in the middle of the old town, where most attractions and entertainment options are within a few minutes’ walking distance. On the downside, it can get noisy at night with the high concentration of bars and restaurants.

Antalya Hadran Roman Gate — *Antalya’s Roman Gates*

While millions of tourists flock to Antalya to enjoy its beaches, there is more to this ancient city in terms of history and culture. Today, over 2 million people call Antalya home. It is the country’s fastest growing cities that ranks very high on the livability index. There is no shortage of all-inclusive resorts, yacht clubs and luxury hotels. There is a sizeable community of retirees from northern Europe and Russians who have settled in Antalya year-round. Menus are offered in several languages, and the language gap here is not as wide as in other Turkish cities.

The entrance to Antalya’s old town starts at Hadran’s Gate. This structure is made of 3 symmetrical columns, originally built by the Romans in the 2nd century, that were incorporated into the fortified walls built by Turkish rulers to guard the old town.

The few hundred houses within Kaleiçi date back to the 18th century and are well preserved. Narrow cobblestone streets form a labyrinth of old houses that have been turned into boutique hotels and colorful craft shops. There are a few landmarks not to miss within the walled city, such as Kesik mosque. The mosque was built over 500 years ago atop Roman and Byzantine ruins that are still visible outside the main structure. It illuminates beautifully at night. When lost in the maze of side streets at night, all I had to do was walk towards the minaret to find my way back to the hotel. The main highlight of Kaleiçi is its old port, complete with a small beach area, as well as restaurants and nightclubs overlooking the bay. The turquoise water contrasts beautifully with the red tile rooftops of heritage houses, and makes for the quintessential Antalya photo opp.

For more history, head to the Antalya Archeological Museum. This part of the Mediterranean coast is very strategic. It passed through many local cultures and foreign invaders from the Greeks and Romans to the Seljuk and Oghuz Turks, the latter two of which lay the foundations for the Ottoman Empire. The museum exhibits the region’s rich cultural history with over 5000 artefacts on display.

Beyond the ancient, Antalya is a sizeable city with excellent infrastructure and modern amenities. Uber and taxi are a reliable mode of transport, in addition to the tram that runs among vast areas of the city. There is no shortage of shopping malls with Turkish and western brands. Turkiye is a major textile and clothes manufacturer, and there are hundreds of brands to choose from that fit all budgets. When visiting Türkiye, you may as well add an extra suitcase. You will be compelled to buy way over your baggage allowance.

Antalya Sea Swimming — *Swimming in October*

While summers are notoriously hot, the weather in early October was in the low 20s Celsius. We spend much of our time in Antalya between the beaches and air-conditioned shopping malls. Lara is the most famous and busy out of all beaches, followed by Konyaalti and some smaller ones nestled between the cliffs. The water is very clean and the golden sand stretches tens of kilometers. There are also theme parks with water slides for the whole family to enjoy.

I got to meet my good friend Melissa, who is half-Turkish and half-French, at a luxurious all-inclusive on Lara Beach. She was in town from Los Angeles to premiere her short film Always and For Never at the Antalya International Film Festival. It is Turkey’s prime film festival that attracts local and international festivals. Thanks to Melissa, I got to rub shoulders with some big names in the Turkish film industry. Turkish films may not be as famous overseas, but Turkish TV series have recently won the hearts of millions of audiences from Latin America to Central Asia. Every year in Antalya, talented artists and filmmakers meet to use the city’s gorgeous to shoot content, and to honor the best in the industry at the prestigious film festival.

Antalya Old Port Nighttime — *Antalya’s Old Port at Night*

For first-timers in Antalya, 4-5 days is enough to sample the highlights of this city. After a relaxing week enjoying Antalya’s beaches and nightlife, we were ready for our next stop: the bustling mega city of Istanbul. The easiest way to get there is by a short flight, but we chose to be adventurous and take the night bus instead—a journey of 11 hours with restroom stops. The buses are very clean and comfortable. They run on time and make for a great way to travel and see the country. If Istanbul is your destination by air or bus, double-check to make sure that the bus terminal or airport you arrive at is the one closest to the area where you’re staying. Istanbul is enormous, and getting to Sabiha Airport (instead of the main one) or getting off at the wrong bus terminal can cost you additional hours on the road.

Istanbul: A City on Two Continents

Arriving at Esenler bus station (on the European side), it was another 20 minutes by taxi to reach our hotel in the municipality of Şişli for the next 10 days.

Istanbul Blue Mosque and Bosporus in Evening — *The Bosporus Strait Dissects Istanbul in the Middle*

The adjacent municipality of Beyoğlu, stretching from Taksim Square to the Galata tower is the most convenient location for first timers in Istanbul – and the main epicenter of most of the action. While not directly on Taksim Square, Icon Hotel Istanbul, offers free shuttle service to the square, as well as the upscale shopping area of Osman Bey that is particularly known for its wholesalers. Otherwise, it’s about a 20-minute walk in either direction.

My room came with a terrace and a view. The staff were friendly and accommodating, and the rates were reasonably priced at about 70 USD per night. On the downside, the street that Icon Hotel is on dies out in the evening, with several auto repair shops and small industrial warehouses. However, the shuttle service and relative proximity to Taksim is an added value.

Istanbul Taxi Istiklal Candy Shop — *Istanbul is the World’s Most Visited City*

In the beginning, Istanbul can be very intimidating. On any given day, over 16 million residents call Istanbul home. Combine that with the commuters from outside the metropolitan area and the millions of tourists, and you have upwards of 25 million people. It is the largest city within the European continent. Space is limited, with traffic and high inflation adding lots of stress to the locals. Just like in any megacity, you won’t be greeted with warm smiles by everyone. There are always exceptions and locals who go out of their way to make sure you feel welcome in Istanbul.

Scams are also common, especially with taxis. When hailing a taxi off the street, make sure to negotiate the price in advance or just use an Uber. This is where an eSIM card will be crucial. Do not attempt to navigate the city with no interactive map on your phone; the street names alone will give you nightmares. Turkish is a difficult language that stems from the Turkic languages of Central Asia. Despite the geography, it has more commonality with Mongolian and Uzbek than it does with its European or Arabic neighbors.

Istanbul Beyuglu Pera Allety — *Cozy Side Streets*

Istanbul also has great public transportation and is well connected through metro, tram, bus and ferry. You can easily purchase a transportation card and navigate your way around the city economically.

Unless you are in the main tourist areas, you will encounter a striking language barrier. Even taxi drivers who rely on tourists everyday speak very little English. As a solution, most of them will pull out their phone and use the translation apps as soon as you start speaking.

Taksim Square holds great historical significance in Türkiye’s modern history. After the fall of the Ottoman Empire, which at its height stretched over 3 continents, a costly war was fought with the allied powers and nationalists within the empire. The dissolution of the Ottoman Republic lead to the founding of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. The Monument of the Republic of Turkey stands in the middle of Taksim Square, and depicts military scenes with Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Atatürk is known as the founder of the modern republic whose ambitious reforms transformed Turkish society from feudalism into a secular, industrialized and more egalitarian one. To this day, he is held in very high regard. Posters of Atatürk are very prevalent, especially in Western Turkey and the Mediterranean Coast where the majority of residents pride themselves on their secular way of life.

Contrary to most assumptions, Istanbul is not the capital of Türkiye. The capital is actually Ankara about 500 km to the east. However, Istanbul is by far the economic and cultural engine of the country. Another thing one will notice is that there is no one prototype of how Turkish people actually look. This is mainly due to the vast size that the Ottoman empire once occupied, the genetic influences of the Turkic people of Central Asia and the many minorities that live there today. This is especially noticeable in Istanbul, which attracts people from around the country who have settled here. You can see Turks with blonde hair and blue eyes speaking the same language as those with more prominent oriental features. There is also enormous variety in dress code. Some opt for modest attire and the headscarf, while others walk around with bare shoulders and miniskirts.

Many cultural events take place in and around Taksim Square. The site is also where public events, concerts and protests take place. Politically motivated skirmishes and attacks are rare, but they do occasionally happen. Nonetheless, Istanbul is perfectly safe for tourists as long as they keep an eye on their belongings and do not wander into dark alleys late at night – as no tourist should do in any other big city.

Istanbul Istiklal Street Tramway — *A Trip Back in Time*

Istiklal Street starts at Taksim Square. The architectural style in and around Istiklal effortlessly blends Ottoman and western architectural influences. It is Istanbul’s most impressive and photogenic shopping street that is only open to pedestrians, with the exception of the vintage tramways. These nostalgic tramways date back to 1914 and ran out of operation a few decades later. They were restored in 1990 to run the 1.64 km stretch up and down Istiklal Street, connecting Taksim Square with Galata Tower.

The hundreds of shops on Istiklal Street are hard to ignore. Window displays are cheerful and inviting, combining international chains with local brands and boutiques. You will spend hours just browsing the shops and taking in the sea of people that walk along the high street. According to some estimates, around 3 million pedestrians walk on Istiklal Street every day. On Istiklal, you can find stylish shoes and leather bags that rival Western designer brands. The confectionaries and pastry shops compete with one another for the prettiest window displays. The Baklavas, candies and Turkish Delight are beautifully arranged and packaged for gifts to bring back home.

As the beating pulse of the city, there is no shortage of nightclubs and restaurants for locals and tourists. Some cafeterias offer homecooked meals such as Dolma-my all-time favorite. It comes as stuffed wine leaves and vegetables with a rice and meat filling. You can even get dolma-style mussels, which are freshly cooked and come with in a variety of sauces and are stuffed with rice.

Up until the early 20th century, Beyoğlu (then called Pera) was mostly inhabited by Christians, mainly Greeks and Armenians. There are mosques, churches and synagogues next to one another. A prime example of the district’s cosmopolitan history is the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua. The Catholic church’s history dates back to the 18h century for Istanbul’s Italian community. It was demolished and rebuilt in the early 1900s and still holds mass in several languages on Sundays.

Galata Tower Istanbul Night — *If Lost, Galata Tower Will Help You Navigate*

The Galata Tower, one of Istanbul’s main landmarks, is a testament to how different invaders contributed to the city’s architectural, ethnic and social makeup back in the days of the Byzantine Empire. Originally built by the Genoese of present-day Italy. With over 65 meters in height, it structure remains one of the oldest towers in the world that was served as a military prison, a watchtower and a fire tower throughout its long history. The tower has a museum inside where you can go all the way to the top for 360 degree-views of the city. Entrance fees in late 2024 were about 30 Euros.

The Galata Tower can be spotted from many points in the city, and looks especially gorgeous at night when it is lit up. The cobblestone streets of the Galata neighborhood has many trendy cafes and indie shops in contrast to the more commercial Istiklal Street. Every single alley has a story to tell and the tower in the background makes for the perfect Instagram shot. If you choose not to go up the Galata Tower to avoid the crowds and entrance fees, the district has some popular rooftop bars and cafes where you can enjoy city views from above.

Istanbul Galata Seagull Photoshoot — *A Winning Photo*

If you are feeling extra photogenic, you can book a rooftop photoshoot. I ran into Melissa again in Istanbul, and she invited me along to her photoshoot in Galata. At the office, you can rent a theatrical costume or a dress. The set crew even prepare breadcrumbs to invite giant seagulls from the Bosporus to visit the photo set for an incredibly cinematic experience.

In addition to the giant seagulls in Istanbul, you will notice many stray cats and dogs all around Türkiye. Don’t worry, these street animals are very well taken care of by locals and municipalities. It is not unusual to see dog houses on random street corners, and cat feed spread throughout public places. The cats are very docile and friendly. This love for animals dates back to one of the Sultans who held cats in very high regard and ordered the residents to take special care of them.

Galata Tower Istanbul — *Flowers and Towers*

There is a whole museum dedicated to the Turks’ special relationship with cats in Galata. Istanbul’s Cat Museum is owned by a clothing company. It is quite small in size. It is dedicated to all things cats, with comical paintings and cat houses for the stray cats to come in and play in. Entrance is free, but all things sold within, including T-shirts and postcards, are donated to cat welfare charities. Inside the museum, you can also order a coffee or a drink and play with the tens of cats that come up to greet visitors.

A few minutes away, there’s also the Pera Museum. It is also a small museum with a marginal entry fee. The best part of the Pera Museum is a hall dedicated to orientalist paintings, which really stood out to me. Depending on your time and budget, there are close to a hundred museums to choose from across the city.

Istanbul City View — *Istanbul from Above*

After sunset, you can take a walk to the adjacent Karaköy district where there are plenty of pubs and restaurants. Karaköy (along with the Taksim area) are prime spots for people watching and nightlife. The narrow streets are decorated with hanging umbrellas and colorful street art. Karakoy is a harbor area, and it is the perfect place to have a Balik durum (a grilled mackerel served as a sandwich or a wrap, with spices and zesty lemon on top).

Right across the bridge, or about a 20-minute walk, is Istanbul’s historical core in an area known as Fatih. Fatih is where the majority of Istanbul’s landmarks can be found, including the Grand Bazaar, the Hagia Sofia, the Topkapi Palace and more.

When the western part of the Roman Empire fell, the eastern part would thrive for another millennium until it fell to the Ottomans. From the 5th to the 15th century AD, Istanbul was known as Constantinople. It was one capital of the Byzantine Empire and arguable the most important city in the whole world.

For those with only one or two days in Istanbul, the Sultan Ahmet Square is usually the first place they visit. It is the most touristy spot in Istanbul. Even those who look down on touristy places – especially for the long queues and high entry fees – cannot deny the beauty and historical relevance of Sultan Ahmet.

Hagia Sofia Istanbul — *Hagia Sofia to One Side…*

It is difficult to meet someone who is not familiar with the Hagia Sofia. Its status as a world-renowned landmark is akin to The Big Ben or Taj Mahal. In terms of the Byzantine Empire, this is where it also had once started. This showpiece of Eastern Orthodox Christianity dates back to the 5th century, when it was the largest building in the world and when the Byzantine Empire ruled three continents out of Constantinople or present-day Istanbul. Like the city itself, the monument underwent many changes to the tune of history. After the Ottomans conquered Constantinople, it was turned into a mosque, later becoming a museum in the 20th century until it was turned back into a mosque in 2020. As of 2025, non-Muslims wishing to enter the Hagia Sofia must pay a 25 Euro entrance fee. There is a free section that is reserved to Muslims for prayer.

Istanbul Sultanahmet Blue Mosque — *The Blue Mosque across Hagia Sofia*

Across the Sultan Ahmet Square, the Blue Mosque is completely free to enter. However, visitors may not enter during Azan or prayer times. With its 6 tall minarets, the mosque towers over the Hagia Sofia just across as though symbolically depicting Islam’s triumph over Christianity in the empire as the centuries progressed. Built by Ottoman Sultan Ahmet The First, the mosque gained its name from the tens of thousands of tiles decorating the interior in different motifs and shades of blue. The tiles shine as the natural lights comes in from the ornate stained-glass windows.

Fans of Ottoman history will have lots to admire at the Topkaki Palace, also in Fatih. This palace complex overlooking the Bosporus Strait was the residence of Ottoman Sultans for several centuries. There are many courtyards and small buildings, with a museum housing early Islamic artifacts such as a sword that Prophet Muhammad is rumored to have fought with. Tickets cost at least 45 Euros, and visitors need to set aside at least three hours to cover the entire palace complex.

I abstained from many museums in Istanbul because I found the prices to be unjustified. For history buffs who are adamant on visiting all the landmarks, there is an Istanbul Museum Pass for purchase that includes some of the major sites. It is worthwhile to do research in advance to figure out if purchasing the entire pass is a worthwhile.

No trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar. As the oldest and largest covered market in the world, it is seen by historians as the first shopping mall in the world. Whatever item comes to mind, you will likely find it at one of the 4,000 shops that comprise the streets and serpentine alleys of the Grand Bazaar.

Put your bargaining hat on and come to the Grand Bazaar with an open mind. Shopkeepers are friendly and gregarious, and they will pull all kinds of tricks to get you to come into their shops. When inside, a whole world of colors and intricate designs makes it irresistible to want to shop. You will find antiques, ceramics, jewelry, common souvenirs, leather goods and delicacies that you can try for free.

Speaking of delicacies, the nearby Egyptian Bazaar or spice market sells similar Turkish desserts, nuts and spices for a slightly lower price. Keep in mind that both markets are in Fatih, where all the tourists flock. As such, prices are higher than elsewhere in the city. Bargaining with the shopkeepers is expected and you can walk away paying 50% or less for most goods at the markets.

Most tourists also make the mistake of not visiting the Asian of Istanbul side to sightsee shop. You can easily take advantage of the affordable ferry that millions of locals use to cross to work and home every day. The Asian side is only about 20 minutes away across the Bosporus. It is more quiet, residential and offers a more authentic look into the lives of Istanbul residents.

When looking at a map of Istanbul, it is pretty straightforward. The city is divided into two parts (in Asia and in Europe). The Black Sea is to the north and the sea of Marmara to the South. The Bosporus Straight runs in a straight line across the city and connects both seas. This proximity to different bodies of water gives Istanbul an edgy climate. Summers can be extremely hot, with fog and heavy rain occurring often in the winter months. The weather can be unpredictable any time of the year.

Many tourist offices advertise Bosporus daytime and evening cruises. You can make your own tour with the Istanbul ferry for a fraction of the cost. The views from the latter will are just as impressive.

To cross from Europe to Asia, the easiest option is to depart from the Ortakoy pier from Beşiktaş. Before you board the ferry, you can visit the Ortakoy Mosque for some photo ops with the water and iconic suspension bridge in the background. It has a lavish of soft pink hues and giant crystal chandeliers with lots of luster. In Ortakoy, you will see many kiosks selling Kumpir. It is made from baked potatoes cut in the middle, filled with cheese and topped with a variety of vegetables and seasonings.

You can use the Istanbul Transportation Pass for the ferry as well as tram and metro at one of the automatic kiosks in the Pier. The ferry is equipped with washrooms and has plenty of covered space to sit. You are welcome to sit or stand outside to take pictures. They even have a coffee stand onboard. Once you depart, you are treating with views of elegant mansions on the Bosporus shore from both, the Asian and European side. In the middle of the journey, the ferry passes Maiden’s Tower, an iconic lighthouse and watchtower that was features on the 10 Lira banknote.

The first stop on the Asian side is the neighborhood of Üsküdar. As far as traditional Istanbul neighborhoods go, Üsküdar is a prime example. There are almost no tourists here. The neighborhood is socially conservative and prices are lower than in Beyoğlu or Fatih. It has a popular promenade with views of Maiden’s Tower, as well as a busy street market. If you are in Istanbul and are shopping for sweets and souvenirs to bring back home, the market in Üsküdar is the absolute best place to save money. What Üsküdar lacks in bars it makes up for in cafes, and there are plenty to choose from. Grab a coffee and see locals play backgammon outside and go about their daily lives. The feel here is much more authentic than in areas overrun by tourists.

Another spot we got to visit on the Asian side is Kadıköy (not to be confused with Karaköy in Beyoğlu), about a 10-minute taxi ride from Üsküdar. Kadıköy is one of the most desirable places to live among students and expats in Istanbul. It is a vibrant area full of bars, bookshops and movie theaters. It is also famous for its bull statue, which attracts thousands of selfies every year.

Ferries between both sides of the Bosporus run late into the night. You can explore Istanbul’s side at a leisure pace and be rewarded with views of the Galata Tower and skyline as it is lit up and reflected along the water at night.

This is just the tip of the iceberg. As one of the oldest living cities in the world, you will never get bored in Istanbul. There is always something to see and explore.

Sadly for us, our time in Istanbul was coming to an end. At the same time, we were looking forward to enjoying a more quiet time in our next destination.

For the next 3 nights, we ventured out to the Black Sea coastal town of Trabzon. Trabzon can be reached from Istanbul via a 15-hour bus ride or just an hour by plane with Turkish Airlines or Pegasus. Either option will cost less than 70 USD in one direction.

Trabzon: Turkish Alps on the Black Sea

We booked our stay in Trabzon at the Aktaş Lights Hotel. The staff were extremely friendly, the rooms were sizeable and breakfast was included in the affordable $50 USD nightly rate.

As an important port city on the Black Sea, the weather was cool and gloomy in late October during our visit. The sea brings humidity with it, and showers are not rare even in the summer. You can swim in one of the beaches around the city. As the name suggests, the Black Sea is characterized by its dark sand. It has more obscure color and is nowhere near as inviting as the pristine beaches of Antalya and Izmir province.

Trabzon Black Sea — *The Black Sea is Dark and Murky*

In stark contrast to Istanbul, the pace of life here is slow. The locals aren’t as accustomed to international tourism. You will not be haggled here and prices for locals and tourists are the same. Walking down one of the central pedestrian streets, I could barely hear any noise.

One thing that you’ll notice is that many locals in the Black Sea region have fair skin and hair. They are polite albeit reserved. This region is typically more socially conservative than the Mediterranean. Interestingly, Trabzon has become an epicenter for Halal Tourism in recent years.

Historically, Trabzon sat at a crossroads of different cultures. Located less than 3 hours from the border with Georgia, it briefly formed part of the Russian Empire in the early 20th century. It also housed a significant number of traders from western European nations. In the later years, the port’s importance and significance of the city as a commercial hub experienced a decline.

Today, Trabzon is the second largest city of Türkiye’s Black Sea region (a coastline that stretches close to 1.5 thousand kilometers). Trabzon has a population of 300,000 inhabitants in its urban area. Fishing remains an important economic activity to the city, and Trabzon is famous for its anchovies. Inland, it is the country’s main source of hazelnut production and tea plantations are nestled on the region’s green hills.

The main points of interest in the city are located around Meydan, the town’s main square. The urban core is pedestrian friendly, with car-free shopping streets. Here, the Trabzon City Museum offers a look into the city’s history and daily lives of its residents. Whimsical wax statues dressed in folkloric costumes stare back at visitors. The ethnographic and archeological museum is housed in a marble mansion built for a Greek baron in the early 1900s. For less than a few dollars, the Trabzon City Museum gives visitors a taste of the unique customs and traditions that define the Black Sea region.

Trabzon also has its own Hagia Sofia. Just like the one in Istanbul, it was initially built as a church and later converted into a mosque. Colorful frescoes depicting scenes from Orthodox Christianity decorate the walls and ceilings as Muslim worshippers perform their prayer. This juxtaposition of religions under one roof is truly what makes Türkiye such a unique place to visit.

To get to Hagia Sofia, you can take a dolmuş (or a shared taxi van) from the central Meydan. A ride in a dolmuş is a very local way of getting around. It can only be experienced in rural and provincial Türkiye.

Solo travelers might feel lonely and struggle in Trabzon. I found the city to be relatively quiet, restrained and lacking in youthful spirit. Only two restaurants serve alcohol, and I was told by staff that I was only allowed to consume beer inside the restaurant and not on the terrace. While the city itself is not outwardly friendly or visually appealing, most of what attracts local and foreign visitors can be found in the lush green countryside.

We dedicated a full day to leave Trabzon City and travel to Uzungöl village in the interior of Trabzon Province. Daily busses travel from the city make the 90-minute journey.

Nestled in a mountainous valley, the picturesque Uzungöl Lake has a distinctly green color that echoes the surrounding mountains. It is easily walkable across its diameter, offering lots of picture opportunities from different angles. Its shores are lined with small red-tiled houses and the village mosque. Hiking trails surround the lake and you can see it entirely from above.

Uzungöl Lake becomes especially beautifully as the fog sets in the afternoon. In the winter, the lake is blanketed with snow and ice. Uzungöl Lake looks like something out of the Swiss Alps. During my time here, I got flashbacks from my time visiting Hakone in rural Japan.

Türkiye’s immense biodiversity is what makes it such an attractive destination. For a relatively small country, you can experience different different seasons, climates and ecosystems all within a few hours from one another.

For our last day in Trabzon, we booked a guided tour to Sumela Monastery. We chose the tour option to avoid the hassle of trying to get there on our own. Because such few foreigners venture out into these parts of the country, English-speaking tour guides might be harder to come across. Still, there are tourist offices throughout the city. The friendly staff of at our hotel. helped us with recommendations.

Getting to Sumela Monastery took about an hour. It was a gorgeous sunny day with clear skies. We drove up green forests and the snow had just begun to set in on the peaks. Once we got to the visitors’ parking spot, we had to take another van up to reach the monastery. From there, it was 15-minute hike up a very steep hill. Entrance cost 25 Euros, but it was well worth it.

What’s so special about the Sumela Monastery is the engineering behind it. It is carved out of hills resembling a fortress up in the clouds. Some of the structures here date as far back as the 4th century AD. When looking at it from above, it looks like an entire village carved out of stones. This Greek Orthodox monastery withstood many landslides and earthquakes. This UNESCO World Heritage site was restored and opened to the public in 2020. You can easily spend two full hours walking through the structures that were built out of stone and comprised the monastery’s library, chapel and rooms for the clergy. There are also many vivid frescoes retelling biblical scenes which were preserved in pristine conditions.

On our way back, we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. It designed as wooden Alpine lodge, complete with a fireplace. This area of Trabzon Province has many cozy shacks and cottages built out of wood for nature lovers to unwind in. We ordered a local variation of a bean stew as well as Kuymak. Just like the Swiss Alps are famous for their fondue, the mountains of Trabzon are famous for Kuymak. It is a warm dish of melted cheese with corn meal. Kuymak is very mild in flavor and gooey in texture. It is best enjoyed with pieces of bread to spread on. Most Turkish meals are enjoyed with Ayran yogurt and black tea. Turkey ranks as the world’s largest consumer of tea. Turkish fondness for tea is especially evident in this region, where it is harvested in abundance. Turkish black tea is served in small clear glasses with or without sugar.

Trabzon’s advantage lies in its coastal climate, mountainous terrain and unique modern history as a crossroads between Anatolia, the Black Sea and the Caucuses. After three days here, it was time onto the next adventure into the country’s interior. The cities of Erzurum and Kars lay ahead.

Erzurum: The City of Minarets against Snowy Mountains

The journey from Trabzon to Erzurum took about 7 hours by bus. Bus companies in Turkey offer comfortable rides and are a safe way to travel around the country. The stations are very clean and modern. Coffee, tea and snacks are also offered by an attendant on board. There are no bathrooms in the bus, but we made frequent stops along the way to pick up other passengers and were given bathroom breaks.

Erzurum Turkiye Snow Mountains and Madrassa — Erzurum is Türkiye’s Premier Winter Sports Destination

Arriving in Erzurum in autumn, you are automatically hit by the cold air. The city sits in a long, flat valley surrounded by mountains. Snow had already fallen on the peaks. Erzurum Province is one of the coldest areas of the country. Within a few weeks, the ski season would begin. The mountains around Erzurum have Türkiye’s most popular ski resorts. The temperature can reach as low as -20 degrees Celsius. When we were there, it hovered between 0 and 5 degrees.

We stayed for two nights in the heart of the city at the plush and newly-built Lala Grand Hotel. Staying at a 5-star hotel for less than 60 USD might not be possible in Istanbul or Antalya, but in Erzurum you definitely can. Our stay here was very comfortable. The rooms were kept well heated and we were less than a minute away from one of the city’s main attractions.

Erzurum Yakitiye Madrasa at Night — *Islam has a Big Influence on Life in Erzerum*

Erzurum is the gateway to Eastern Anatolia. It is often cited as the most conservative city in Türkiye. It is also the heartland of support for socially-conservative President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. His posters are hung in many government and residential buildings, in very stark contrast to Antalya and Istanbul, where Atatürk posters dominate in demonstration of secular values. Our visit coincided with the 101st anniversary of the founding of the republic. There were many street parades and posters of Atatürk commemorating the founding of the Turkish Republic.

Interestingly, many locals have blended and reconciled Atatürk’s vision for a modern and secular Türkiye with Erdoğan’s vision for a larger role of Islam in society and politics. It is this merging of modernity and tradition that makes the country unlike any other. To his credit, Erdoğan is also hailed as a mighty leader who stabilized thee country’s economy when Europe suffered crises, and allowed for more religious freedoms at a nationwide level.

Before Erdoğan’s reign, Türkiye’s secularism was seen as curbing personal freedoms. Women in headscarves and Islamic dress were not allowed to work in or attend public institutions. Erdoğan’s Türkiye looks and feels very different than it did in the early 21st century. As a rule of thumb, the more eastward you head, the more Islamic and conservative the ambiance.

Being in Erzurum evokes a feeling of Central Asia and the historic silk Road. The semi-arid climate, snow-capped mountains and blue-tiled minarets made me feel like I was in Samarkand. I’d never been to Uzbekistan in the past, but that’s what I imagined it would feel like to be in an oriental fairytale land.

*Cağ kebab is an Erzurum-style street food*

Restaurants do not sell alcohol in Erzurum and there are no bars. There is only one Tekel, or licensed liquor store tucked away in a derelict part of town. Still, there is plenty to eat, drink and enjoy in the city. The most famous local specialty is the Cağ kebabı, a meat kebab that is charcoal-grilled horizontally instead of vertically. The meat is much more commonly lamb than beef. Turkish cuisine does not have any pork dishes, since the consumption of pork is forbidden in Islam.

Our hotel was less than 100 meters away from the Yakituye Madrase and that was the first site that I explored. The structure is hard to miss as it is marked by its tall minaret covered in intricately-designed tiles. The entrance and façade also feature geometric carvings. Madrasa means ‘school’ in Arabic. Yakutiye Madrase was the city’s most important center for Quranic learning and knowledge exchange, akin to modern-day universities.

The Yakutiye Madrase was built in the early 1300s. Before the Ottomans, the largest group of Turks to rule the land were the Seljuks. The madrasa is a testament of the Seljuk’s might before the Ottoman Empire was formed and reached its glory. Portraits (especially of people) are forbidden in Islam. Instead, early Muslims used geometrical patterns and colors to decorate their palaces. Once inside the building, the vault’s symmetrical carvings showcase Islamic interior design at its best.

Erzurum Carpets — *Treasures of the Silk Road*

The city center of Erzurum is very walkable. Near the main tourist sites, there are many shops selling high-quality woolen fabrics and artisanal products. Given the city’s status as a part of the silk road, you can get the finest oriental rugs here for a reasonable price. There is also a sizeable minority of Kurdish people in the region, and that is reflected in their unique motifs and handicrafts that you can find in Erzurum’s center.

About a 10-minute walk from the Yakutiye Madrase you’ll find Erzurum Castle. The castle is the oldest surviving structure in the city, which was constructed to serve as a military fortress. If you feel courageous, climb up the narrow wooden steps of the clock tower. From here, you’ll be rewarded with the best views of the city. Right across, the Minarets Madrese sits below snow-covered mountains. Erzurum is not a big city. The whole population is about 300,000. You can see many of the buildings that make up the city center from this historical tower.

Erzurum Castle Seljuk Architecture — *The Erzurum Castle is a Showpiece of Seljuk Architecture*

Islamic cultural influence can be felt throughout the city, clearly sitting it apart from Western Anatolia and modern Turkish cities. The other famous landmark that attracts visitors is a second madrassa, just across from the castle. The Twin Minarets is larger in size than the Yakutiye Madrase mentioned earlier. Standing outside, one can imagine feel its power and historical relevance. Yesterday’s minaret towers are like today’s skyscrapers. For those visited centuries ago, this would have been the equivalent of Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Twin Towers. Both minarets feature identical turquoise and orange tiles whose colors have not yet faded.

The Twin Minarets Madrasa has a serene outdoor courtyard and serves as a museum. There are at least a dozen rooms showcasing artworks from the Seljuk period and handwritten Qurans that date back to when they were used by the imams and the students. In addition to Islamic studies, the madrasas where a place where astronomy and the sciences flourished. Entrance fees are less than 50 Turkish liras (or about 2 USD).

There’s also the Erzurum Archeological Museum nearby. I was actually not expecting much when going there. The museum’s collection and meticulous layout took me by surprise. There’s an outdoor garden with prehistoric statues from the early civilizations that inhabited this land all the way back to the pre-Anatolian period; before the Greeks, Romans, Armenians and Ottomans claimed this territory.

The museum is large and roomy, with permanent exhibitions on two levels. On the lower floors are archeological displays of the early civilizations before they became part of the Urutian kingdoms and Armenian kingdoms before Byzantine Christianity controlled the region. The second floor is a tribute to Turkish history from the Seljuk to the Ottoman Empire. One exhibition room that stood out pays tribute to national heroine Nene Hatun.

Nene Hatun was born in Erzurum Province in the late 19tth century. As a young woman, she played a key role in the battle against Russian forces that tried to annex Erzurum to their empire. Unprepared for the battle, the locals (including then 20-year-old Nene) fought the invading soldiers with anything they could find in their houses, from axes to kitchen knives. Nene led the villages in the battle for their homeland. Nene Hatun and the women of Erzurum are celebrated for their strength and perseverance during times of battle.

Erzurum was a worthwhile stop on our Türkiye roadtip. 2-3 nights are perfect to get a full taste of this traditional city of mosques and Seljuk-era architecture. Erzurum doesn’t feature often in tourist guidebooks, and it was a delight to discover it on our own.

From here, it was another 3 hours northeast by bus to reach our final journey, the city of Kars.

Kars: An Offbeat and Charming Gateway to the Caucasus

Arriving in Kars, it almost feels like the end of the world. It is a small city of less than 100,000 people. We were dropped off at an auto garage. There were no taxis in sight and there’s only a dolmuş that runs alongside the road into the city every so often. I asked the gas station nearby to call us a taxi and they were happy to help.

Kars Turkey Castle and Armenian Church — *The Kars Citadel and Church of the Apostles*

We booked our 2-night stay in the city at the Grand Ani Hotel. The location was convenient to enjoy the city by foot. The staff were exceptionally friendly and the hotel was beautifully decorated. Best of all, the hotel came with a gorgeous hammam spa. The spa included a heated pool, a steam room and a dry sauna. When in Türkiye during the colder months, nothing helps to relax more than a traditional Hammam or Turkish bath. There are separate hours for men and women, and you can get a massage or rejuvenating body scrub on-site.

As soon as you are in the city, you will notice the number of cheese and honey shops. The shop displays all use creative displays to entice customers. Kars is a famous city for cheese production. There is actually a whole museum dedicated to the craft.

Entrance to the Kars cheese museum costs only 50 Liras (less than $1.50 USD at the time). The design of the building is made to look like hundreds of round cheese wheels stacked atop one another. Inside, the museum feels like a dimly-lit cellar. There are interactive displays and actual tools used in the process. Life-sized wax figures depict how different varieties of cheese are made from start to finish. More than 30 varieties are produced here. The most famous of Kars cheeses are the Gruyère (similar to the Swiss Emmental) and the Kashar cheese made from a mix of cow and sheep milk. There’s also a shop at the museum where you can learn more about the varieties and bring gifts home.

Another museum that I visited on my first day here was the Kars Military History Museum of the Caucasus Front. Kars is located in a very strategic location. In addition to Ottoman rule, it was part of an Armenian kingdom, and more recently, the Russians occupied it from the late 19th century to 1917. What was once a fortress and field hospital is now a museum dedicated to the thousands of Turkish soldiers fighting to regain the borders of their lands. The museum’s exhibition rooms are in Turkish and English. The atmosphere inside can be a bit gloomy, but it is well-curated and entrance is completely free.

Kars Castle Turkey — *A Steep Hike up to the Castle*

The city’s main historical landmark is the Kars Citadel with its sturdy walls that close in a round shape. It originally back from the 12th century, but was destroyed and rebuilt in the 16th century after its destruction by a Mongol invasion. If you don’t mind climbing up steep hills, you can get the best views of the whole city from up here. The castle complex is free to enter. On any given day, the grounds of the castle and promenade below are a meeting place for locals to go to meet up and go for a stroll. The gates of the castle close at 5 PM, but it lights up beautifully in the evening and the surrounding area is lively in the evening.

Right below the castle is the 17th century Ulu Mosque and the Holy Apostles Church. The latter was also known as the Kars Cathedral and dates all the way back to the mid-10tth century when the Armenians ruled her. It was built in a typical Armenian Orthodox style with a cone-shaped red-tiled roof. When the Ottomans took over, it was converted into a mosque. Then the days of the Russian Empire came, and it went back to being a church. It was abandoned for decades then converted back into a mosque in the late 1990s. While the interior is very simple, the 12 apostles after which the church was named decorate the outer walls of the dome to this day.

A river runs through this neighborhood. The city installed a promenade for pedestrians along the river, which ends at a small 15th century Ottoman bridge. When visiting the castle, you can stop by the Raskolnikov Café for coffee, food or a glass wine of wine with river views. The café is housed in an old Turkish bathhouse and the owner is very friendly. While Turkish visitors are visiting in increasing numbers, there are very few foreigners in Kars. The locals have a genuine interest in learning more about you and it is not uncommon for them to ask to take pictures together.

Another cozy café to check out in Kars is the Kars Giftshop Bazaar and Café. The décor was very eclectic. It reminded me of a grandma’s house with a fire stove in the middle. You can have tea or coffee here and play cards with the locals. They have a shop where you can pick up a wool hat to keep you warm. You will surely have tried Turkish coffee, which is popular worldwide. It is very strong and is served in small, round cups.

One thing that you will instantly notice when in Kars is the different architectural influences in its old houses and mansions downtown. In addition to the Ottoman style with its wooden columns and balconies, there are many houses that have remained from the days of the Russian empire. You can spend a whole day just walking around and taking pictures of the hundred or so unique old houses, some are abandoned and dilapidated, while others have been converted into hotels and restaurants.

On our first night, we booked a dinner and traditional dance show that was recommended by our hotel. The Kale Café and Restaurant is large and has an inviting décor. We were seated right next to the stage. The opening act was two men who sang and played the tar, a stringed instrument typical of the region. Shortly after, the dance troupe came on stage. The dancers performed folk dances of the Caucasus region with love and passion. For dinner, we had a variety of local appetizers and soup, as well as the famous Kars roasted goose meat. We also ordered Manti, meat filled dumplings in yogurt sauce and one of my favorite Turkish dishes.

Armenian culinary tradition has also heavily influenced the food here. If you are in the mood for lahmacun (a type of meat on wrapped flatbread pie), you have plenty of options in Kars. Better yet, you can also have the boat-shaped pide with thicker dough (kind of like a Turkish version of the pizza).

Today, Kars is at a mosaic of different cultures. While predominately Turkish, pockets of Kurds, Azerbaijanis and Armenians live here. This unique blend of cultures, as well as Eastern Anatolia’s mix of westernized and traditional elements inspired Orhan Pamuk’s novel snow. Kars outwardly more liberal than Erzurum (you can more openly order alcohol here, for example), but a more rural feel and approach to life remains strong here. One of my favorite books of Turkish literature, Snow is set in Kars. Kars means snow in Turkish, hence the name.

We saved the best for our absolute last day in Kars. Before visiting Kars, I had looked up things to do in and around the city. The abandoned city of Ani is just 40 km east of Kars along the Armenian border. To get there, you can either book a private taxi (about $80 USD with waiting times to drive you back), or get up earlier in the morning to catch one of the very few busses that go there. Ani is a completely abandoned town. There is only one small village nearby. Hence it is very important to plan the itinerary well. Entrance fees were under 10 Euros, but only cash is accepted there.

The city of Ani dates all the way back to the times of the Zoroastrians. It would eventually serve as the capital of the Armenian kingdom. Many kingdoms and civilizations passed through this ancient city. It flourished under many rulers, but is most notably associated with the Armenians. We went on a weekday, where there were less than 10 other people at the whole site. It also happened to be Halloween Day. What better thing to do for Halloween than visit a whole abandoned city, and have it mostly to yourself?

Ani Kars Turkey Armenian City — *The Outer Gates of Ani*

The feeling you experience when you cross the giant outer gates and look beyond is otherworldly. The whole grounds of the city are surrounded by mountains. Just across the valley below, you find yourself looking at Armenia. Due to the site’s sensitive location between two borders, Ani was closed off to visitors for a very long time.

During the Medieval times, it is estimated that Ani had a population of close to 100,000 visitors. It was then invaded by Mongols and suffered a devastating earthquake. On top of that, shifting trade routes during the time added to its decline. The city never fully recovered and was fully abandoned by the 1600s.

Archeologists have excavated remnants of at least 50 churches. At least half a dozen remain fully intact. Here, you will find the main Ani cathedral, which is the largest structure. Not far from it is a mosque that was later erected and another Armenian church with its cone done and Armenian inscriptions at the door. There’s also a medieval Georgian Church with its own unique frescos and architectural style. Many excavations are still underway and some of the buildings frequently undergo renovation.

The mountains in the background make for ideal pictures. It is truly a surreal and breathtaking experience. It takes at least a few hours to cover the grounds of the whole city. For me, visiting Ani was the highlight of my time in Kars, if not all of my month-long stay in Türkiye.

Our time in Türkiye was coming to an end. From Kars, we would go back to Istanbul for a day before boarding international flights. I am very glad that I got to experience both, the touristy side and more authentic parts of the country. For those with a week or extra days to spare, venturing to the eastern parts of the country can offer plenty of excitement.

Türkiye packs lots of diversity within its borders. This diversity ranges from climate to gastronomy and the different ethnic groups that make up this nation. I am excited for my next trips here to Türkiye and exploring new places in the near future.

Türkiye Kars Castle Ottoman Architecture — *Thank You,* Türkiye

Türkiye Pros:

· Mild climate with seasonal variety

· Clean beaches and many seas

· Ideal for food lovers

· Very safe overall

Türkiye Cons:

· Inflation can highly affect prices

· Language barrier issues

· Scams are common in tourist hotspots

Türkiye Road Trip: Four Corners and Three Seas