Zanzibar: An Island Spice Masala
Zanzibar’s East Coast Has Some of the Most Beautiful Beaches in the World
Kilimanjaro Mountain as Seen from the Plane
In September 2017, I had four days off from work, so I was looking for a quick one-stop destination from Dubai. Zanzibar was the perfect choice. I had been meaning to visit this island off mainland Tanzania’s coast for some time, and Fly Dubai offered direct 6-hour flights to the island. I got to see glimpses of snow-covered Kilimanjaro Mountain from the sky.
My four-day itinerary was split between Stone Town, Zanzibar’s main city and historical center, and a stay at an all-inclusive resort at Kiwengwa Beach on the island’s East Coast.
Stone Town: Continuously-Inhabited Cultural Mosaic
A Patio View of Historical Stone Town
I arrived at the airport in the afternoon and had booked a private transfer to my hotel, the Double Tree by Hilton located in the heart of Stone Town (now called Spice Tree by Turaco). Upon arrival and check-in, I had lunch on the hotel patio, which overlooks the historical neighborhood before heading out to explore the nearby alleyways.
At first, the small streets of Stone Town may seem intimidating. Some of the buildings are almost a thousand years old, and remain inhabited by local residents. Many of them are in a rundown and decaying state. Still, the neighborhoods are safe for tourists and despite the small culture shock at first, it remains an interesting site to explore. While some romanticize the decaying alleys, I felt a bit uncomfortable with the sharp juxtaposition of poverty alongside tourists with flashy cameras. I had a walking tour booked for the next day, so I decided to have an early seafood dinner at the nearby ultra-luxurious Park Hyatt, before returning to my hotel.
The next day, I was picked up by my tour guide in my morning to start the walking tour of landmark sites in Stone Town. The island, which was previously independent from Tanzania, has been influenced by many cultures. It was a key location in the old trade routes through the Indian Ocean and was frequented by Indian and Persian merchants, as well as being occupied by the Portuguese and Arab Sultans before becoming a British Protectorate.
The food in Zanzibar is highly influenced by the old spice trade. Octopus is abundant and cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon and clove adorn many dishes. Indian dishes like Biryani are now a local specialty, the contact with merchants from Arabia, Persia and the Indian Ocean. As a Muslim society, pork is prohibited and all food is halal.
During one of the island’s darkest chapters in history, it was a key hub in the slave trade. Our first stop on the walking tour was to the house of Tibu Tipp, one of the island’s wealthiest men at one time who prospered off the slave trade. The house itself was closed to tourists, and the exterior was in obvious need of repairs. However, like with many with many houses in Stonetown, the large wooden door with brass ornaments adorning it are very impressive. Such doors are a common site in many of the island’s buildings. Many of these old houses have tinted, colorful windows that close with a wooden exterior, in typical oriental fashion. The mix of cultures that have crossed Zanzibar are highly evident in the architecture.
Building Facades, Including Doors and Windows, are Very Old and Detailed in Stone Town
Other stops on our walking tour included the island’s Anglican Church, built by the British, the old fortress and the Palace of the Sultan, a 19th century palace which showcases the history of the island and the riches its once ruling family before it was renamed to the People’s Palace Museum during Zanzibar’s revolution and independence from the United Kingdom. Rock enthusiasts can also visit the house of Freddy Mercury, where the singer was born and his family lived in his early days.
Afterwards, we headed to a nearby beach to take a speed boat to Prison Island. The small island never actually housed a prison, but was used as a quarantine site during the yellow fever epidemic. Visitors to the island can also see and feed the giant tortoises housed at a conservation there, some of whom are hundreds of years old and are the oldest and largest living turtles in the world. Prison Island is surrounded by pristine turquoise water, and is a great snorkeling site.
Upon our return from Prison Island, I headed to the patio of the Africa House Hotel to enjoy the evening views from the Sunset Bar, one of the best places to enjoy a drink and meet fellow travelers.
Kiwengwa: White Sand Against Turquoise Water
My last two nights in Zanzibar was on the opposite side of the island, Kiwengwa, about a 90-minute drive from Stonetown on the East Coast. I was picked up in the early morning by a local driver, and we made a stop at a spice garden on our way. Zanzibar is famous for its nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves, which made it a key stop and destination during the spice trade, which lasted several centuries and attracted traders from all nearby regions. Visitors can purchase spice gift baskets, teas and artisanal soap to take home.
My hotel in Kiwengwa for two nights was the all-inclusive Neptune Pwani Beach Resort and Spa. It is a beachfront megaresort with full amenities, live entertainment in the evenings, buffet meals three times a day and drinks on request, and very comfortable traditional-style huts for rooms. I was very impressed with the décor and ambiance of my room. The adjacent beach was also perhaps the nicest I had ever seen, with snow white sand and crystal-clear turquoise water. The beach itself was the highlight of my trip. While at the beach, one can sometimes see men from the nearby Maasai tribe who come from the interior to sell their handicrafts and offer other services. They are distinguished by their red robes and braided hair.
For the next two days, I mostly stayed at the resort. There are no noteworthy attractions within close proximity to the town of Kiwengwa and most visitors come for some of the best beaches in the Indian Ocean. As a solo traveller, it was my first stay at an all-inclusive resort. It felt lonely at times, as the resort caters to families and honeymooners. Still, it was a very welcome opportunity to unwind and simply enjoy the beach and pool.
While Zanzibar may not be as developed as many other tourist destinations, its unique history, architectural influences and beaches make it one of the most significant tourist attractions in Africa and the Indian Ocean.
Zanzibar Pros:
Indian Ocean
Some of the best beaches and cleanest water
Cultural influences
Architecture
Zanzibar Cons:
Some areas are highly underdeveloped
Most dining and food options were average
