Sri Lanka: Island of Spice, Tea and Gems
Sri Lanka was my first-ever solo trip back in April 2016.
I had first been meaning to go ever since I saw a travel documentary on its lush forests and ancient treasures. The small and compact island packs a lot of culture, biodiversity and breathtaking nature. I ended up visiting this magical country 3 times.
The Mountainous Region of Nuwara Eliya, Central Province
When I first moved from Canada to Dubai in 2015 for work, Sri Lanka was my first choice for a vacation abroad as it was only a four-hour flight away. My parents had also previously visited Sri Lanka and loved it. They kept the contact information of the guide/driver on their trip, so I was able to get in touch with him and hire him for my trip. The price of hiring a driver with a reliable car for your trip is very reasonable (around $80 for the whole day)—keeping in mind that public transportation is not very reliable, and going with this option saves you time. At the time, I was working at my corporate job, so I could afford to spend on extra luxuries. Many hotels in Sri Lanka also offer driver accommodation, so this really helps during long road trips by car.
Visas for Sri Lanka are very easy. You must apply online, and receive your ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization) in your inbox. The visa is then stamped on your passport at Colombo Airport upon arrival.
A South Asian country that is rich in culture and history, Sri Lanka is an independent island nation that lies just south of India within the Indian Ocean. In Sinhalese, Sri Lanka means ‘Sacred Island.’ Shaped like a teardrop in the water, it was known as the island of Ceylon while under British Colonial rule between the 18th and 20th century. Additionally, it is also informally known as ‘The Island of Cinnamon and Spices’ for its significance in the cultivation and transport of spices across the historical Near East. Much of that legacy remains to this day and is one of the reasons why tourists flock to Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka Produces Much of the Tea We Drink
Sri Lanka is a multi-ethnic and multi-religious society. Over three quarters of Sri Lankans are Sinhalese and belong to the Buddhist religion, followed by the Tamils predominantly in the north and northeast of the country who follow Hinduism. Throughout Sri Lanka, there are also sizeable communities of Christians and Muslim Moors. There had been a three decades-long conflict between the majority Sinhalese and Tamil Tigers rebels, which ended in 2009.
This was followed by significant improvements to the local economy and the return of tourism in large numbers. However, there have been sporadic instances of terrorist attacks and anti-government protests. Still, that doesn’t stop visitors from coming back.
Here is a breakdown of my first 9-day trip to Sri Lanka taken in April 2016.
First Stop: Negombo, a Rustic Fishing Town
I took an overnight Fly Dubai flight, which departed from Dubai late at night. By early morning local time I had already landed at Colombo airport. The beachside town of Negombo is only a 30-hour drive away from the capital, Colombo. The airport is actually located very closely to Negombo. As soon as you leave the airport, you see that tuk-tuks are a very common mode of transportation.
Many tourists choose to stay in Negombo instead of Colombo because it offers more tranquility and resort options than the big city, and has a slightly rustic fishing town atmosphere. The town itself has quite a few options for bars and restaurants as well. However, based on my experience visiting three times, there isn’t much of a nightlife in any of Sri Lanka’s cities or resort towns. Prices for accommodation fluctuate per season, but a 5-star hotel will typically start at about 120 USD-150 USD per night during busy times.
Apart from the resorts, Negombo’s main tourist attraction is its fish market. Since before sunrise, fishermen dock their boats at the market to sell their catch of the day. Large tuna fish, shrimps and even sharks are displayed and dried in the open air and tourists are welcome to browse and take pictures. The smell can be traced hundreds of meters away. It was overpowering when mixed with Sri Lanka’s midday sun, so enter at your own risk.
I stayed at the mesmerizing Jetwing Lagoon Negombo for two nights. This eco-inspired hotel has beachside access onto the Indian Ocean, and faces the Negombo lagoon Sri-Lanka’s longest swimming pool. The rooms with top-grade wood and have an oversized outdoor bathroom, adding to the natural feel of the resort. Jetwing, along with Cinnamon at close second place, is my absolute favorite chain of local hotels in Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka’s proximity to India has had great influence on the small, yet independent island nation. Sri Lankan cuisine is similar to South Indian, albeit even more spicy. After all, it is the country of spices. Seafood is very popular throughout the island. My absolute favorite is the yellow fish curry, with large chunks of tuna. Naturally, most meals are accompanied with plain or coconut rice to combat the tear-inducing spiciness. Side dishes include chutneys made from tropical fruits like mangoes and pineapple, dried coconut flakes and Shrimp Sambol, a spicy appetizer made from small, dried shrimp to add as garnish to the main plate.
(*I also stayed at the Heritance Negombo during another visit to Negombo, but found the Jetwing Lagoon to offer a much more unique and relaxing experience).
After 2 days of relaxion at the resort, I was ready to venture into the country’s interior, where the real Sri Lanka lives.
Habarana Village: Polonnaruwa, , Sigiriya and Dambulla
We left Negombo in the early morning for a 4-hour drive northeast towards the region known as the ‘Cultural Triangle’.
The journey was very scenic as we drove by villages with humble, but charming and well-kept small houses. Cleanliness is a big part of the local culture, and there is no noticeable trash on the side of the road in the countryside or even the biggest cities. The air quality is also very healthy. However, as we ventured further into the Northeastern Province, the climate became more dry and hot, especially with the absence of an ocean breeze. The sun in the area is also very strong.
Sinhalese New Year Public Celebrations in Rural Sri Lanka
It was the week of the Sinhalese New Year, and there were many processions and cultural activities along the way. This holiday is celebrated by the Sinhalese and Tamils alike. The sounds of music and firecrackers fill the streets. We stopped the car to take pictures and observe the colorful games played by families and their neighbors to celebrate the end of harvest season.
We arrived at the Cinnamon Lodge Habarana after what felt like much longer than a 4-hour drive. Situated in the midst of an old estate, this hotel is grandiose in every sense of the word. Visitors are guaranteed to feel like they are staying within a natural reserve. Rooms come in a bungalow style and many friendly animals roam around the vast property grounds freely, adding to a safari-like feel to the hotel. Toque macaques came by my porch at sunrise, before being chased away by the larger monkeys. The macaques can be very bold and cheeky, so make sure that you have all your shiny valuables hidden away so that they don’t snatch them.
The next morning, we headed to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. The UNESCO world heritage site dates back to the 12th century and is a window into how evolved the local kingdoms were back then. Having visited many ancient cities in Asia, Polonnaruwa is definitely an underrated site. Originally built for the god Shiva when the city was under Hinduism, Polonnaruwa converted to Buddhism later on and is home to numerous Buddhist temples and shrines, water canals, pagodas and statues. Visiting Polonnaruwa was one of my favorite parts of this trip.
After a long day at the ruins, we headed to Habarana Lake for a boat ride among the water lilies and a village island. The few locals that live here in tiny wooden huts lead a secluded way of life in perfect harmony with nature. I was treated to some local food and got to watch how they make coconut roti bread on a traditional stove.
At night, I treated myself to a traditional Ayurveda massage at a famous local spa, which had been owned by the same family for generations. Comprised of a few small huts, the place was just what I had expected from a low-key spa right in the jungle, and the service was excellent. Ayurverda is much more than just a spa routine, it is considered a form of medicine deriving from ancient philosophies. A plethora of wellness and meditation routines, as well as diets and herbal remedies are derived from the culture of Ayurverda. For those who enjoy natural skincare brands, Sri Lanka produces several. My absolute favorite is Spa Ceylon, with a product range of luxurious soaps, bath and shower products derived from essential oils and smell very opulent.
The following day, the plan had been to visit the legendary Sigiriya Rock Fortress and the Dambulla caves on our way toward the tea highlands region. Both places are famous for their colorful ancient paintings of with both, religious and erotic themes. Sirigya is known as the ‘Lions Rock’, and the entrance to the cave structure has giant lions paws. It is considered a masterpiece of nature and architecture when combined and served as a kingdom and refuge for King Kashpaya in the 6th century when feudal wars within the royal family were commonplace. The Sigiriya rock was turned into a fortress and city complex, with the full population of a city living inside the rock. It was complete with water irrigation systems and terraces to grow food. I got to see the Sigiriya rock fortress from outside. I was feeling a bit under the weather, so chose not to go up the rock. I just took pictures around the Sigiriya fortress and the adjacent park. The place is stunningly beautiful, and now I wish I did enter and climb it to the top.
In the small city of Dambulla along the way, the Dambulla Cave Temple has a giant lying Buddha statue. One room alone has over 70 colorful Buddha statues preserved to perfection. The painted murals are said to be some of the most vivid and beautiful in all of Asia. Due to my illness that day, I wasn’t able to enter the temple but just saw it from outside. It remains an absolute must for me to come back the next time that I am in Sri Lanka’s interior.
From Dambulla, a 2.5-hour drive to Kandy lay ahead.
3-Kandy: The Cultural Capital of Sri Lanka
Upon arrival to Kandy, I checked into the Cinnamon Citadel Kandy hotel. The hotel overlooks the Mahawali river and the rooms are cozily decorated with retro-style furniture. Kandy is Sri Lanka’s second largest city and served as the capital until the 19th century. With a population of about 150,000, it has all of the amenities of a large city, but without the congestion. Kandy is referred to as the cultural capital and heart and soul of Sri Lanka and is a favorite among visitors. It has a relatively mild climate since it is in a mountainous region.
After checking in, I headed to watch a traditional Kandyan dance. In the past, this dance was performed for the kings, especially when they were feeling ill and needed a morale boost. Both men and women in elaborate costumes and headdress make up the dance troop. Drums are the main instrument, and some acts include jugglers and comical sketch performances in tribal masks. The show ended in a fire dance just outside the hall. It literally had dancers juggling torches and stepping on hot, burning stones.
In addition to tea and spices, gemstone mining is also a big industry in Sri Lanka. Even Marco Polo commented on the island’s sparkling treasures. Rubies and sapphires in blue, yellow and red are the most valuable. There is a small gemstone museum in Kandy where you can learn more about the country’s rare minerals, with a shop if you chose to buy some. I am not an expert in jewelry, but I did buy myself a silver ring with moonstone as a souvenir for about 150 USD.
The country’s most-visited temple, the “Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic” on picturesque Kandy Lake houses Buddha’s tooth. No one knows exactly where the tooth lies, but in the past, whoever claimed to be in possession of the sacred tooth could rule the country. The temple has some gorgeous shrines and golden Buddha statues. My visit coincided with the Sinhalese New Year, so it was extremely crowded and hard to move around, but I still managed to take some pictures of the shrines and wall paintings inside the temple.
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy
About 50 km west of Kandy is Sri Lanka’s most popular attraction, the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. The elephant is Sri Lanka’s most famous inhabitant, and is even featured in the center of the country’s flag. Today, there are less than 10,000 wild elephants in Sri Lanka and they are protected by law. The Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage is a place where elephants are rescued, rehabilitated and sheltered, with some of the species having a lifespan of over 60 years.
The Elephant is Sri Lanka’s Most Sacred Animal
My next stop was 80 km south within the interior to the hill town of Nuwara Eliya.
There is also a train service that connects Kandy to Nuwara Eliya and that is known for having some of the most scenic views from a train. I have heard mixed reviews of taking trains in Sri Lanka, and am yet experience it first-hand on an upcoming visit.
Nuwara Eliya: Little England in Sri Lanka
The next morning, we headed up the highlands to the magical town of Nuwara Eliya, once the epicenter of the global tea trade. The drive from Kandy took about 2.5 hours, and we stopped at a spice garden on our way. While I had been told that certain spice gardens in Sri Lanka are more for tourist presentation than actual cultivation, it was still worthwhile to see firsthand how the spices that the island is famous for are grown. Apart from cinnamon, Sri Lanka is also famous for its nutmeg, cardamom, clove, vanilla and pepper. A popular gift to take home is a wooden box with a variety of samples. You can either buy one directly at the garden, or at one of the many gift and souvenir shops (probably for a better deal too). I also picked up a bottle of Sandalwood oil when there.
The drive up is truly dazzling, as the climate gets cooler and the tea plantations are juxtaposed by a mystical fog. The names Ceylon and Sri Lanka are synonymous with tea. We stopped at a tea factory on the way to town and got to see how tea is cultivated and produced for the rest of the world from the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya. There are many verities to sample, learn about and take back home in neat box sets. We stopped the car over the tea fields to see the workers in action. We got to meet some tea harvesters as well, who work in very difficult conditions and are often paid very little for the kilos of tea leaves that they are expected to pick and carry on their backs.
The nature, climate and scenery here are truly unique for the region. It is no wonder that tea barons and colonialists chose this town to cool off from the heat. There are many British-era mansions and buildings in town. The hotel that I stayed at for the night, the Grand Hotel, is one such Edwardian gem. The hotel is wonderfully decorated and has retained much of its original furniture adorned in the rooms and the halls, and it is surrounded by a luxurious and impeccably well-kept garden.
Nuwara Eliya is a quiet town, and it is far away from the capital Colombo, which might discourage some tourists from visiting. Still, it is a must-visit for anyone visiting Sri Lanka as it offers scenery and an ambiance that cannot be replicated elsewhere on the island—or much of the world for that matter.
From there, it was time to head back to the coast for my last two nights in Sri Lanka. A 5-hour drive lay ahead.
Galle and Bentota Beach: Peach Pink Sunsets over the Indian Ocean
After a long drive from Nuwara Eliya to the Southern Province, I arrived at the Avani Kalutara Resort. My plan was to stay at the luxury hotel, and enjoy the stunning pink fuchsia sunsets and direct access to the Indian Ocean via a gold sand beach. While this part of Sri Lanka’s coast has long been popular with surfers, swimming is too risky for the strength of the waves. Bentota is for those who mainly want to stay at their resort and enjoy the beach. Sri Lanka is a very religious country, and Buddhism is observed piously. It was a full moon night on my last day in Sri Lanka, which meant that serving and selling alcoholic drinks was prohibited, even in hotels catering to foreigners.
In the morning, and when driving along the Southern Coast, it is not uncommon to see fishermen who make stick crosses in the ocean to sit on while fishing. This type of fishing is called Stilt Fishing and requires a lot of balance and patience. It also makes for a great photo opp. The town of Bentota itself does not offer much for cultural attractions for tourists, but it is very close to the main gem of southern Sri Lanka, the colonial town of Galle.
Galle is famous for having been at the crossroads of Dutch, Portuguese, Moorish and British conquests. This is evident in all of the different architectural influences throughout the city that long served as the country’s main port. Galle was very heavily impacted by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, with many buildings restored. The Galle lighthouse and the Galle fortress, the largest European-built fortress in Asia are must-visits. In the old town, there are many charming side streets and alleys that are full of cafes and artisanal boutiques catering to the tourists.
Breathtaking Views and Ocean Breeze at the Jetwing Lighthouse Hotel in Galle
*I did not get to see Galle on my first visit to Sri Lanka, but had made it a priority to spend time there on my two other visits. When in Galle, I stayed at the Jetwing Lighthouse hotel, sitting on top of massive rocks, this Oceanview hotel epitomizes a romantic ambiance as the waves crash hard against the giant rocks. With unparalleled views at the open-air balcony restaurant that serves some of the best barbequed seafood, the Jetwing Lighthouse is one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed at. For my 31st birthday, I could not get extra days off from work, but that did not stop me from booking an overnight stay at the Jetwing Lighthouse and taking a 4-hour flight from Dubai just so that I could return to celebrate there and fly back the next night. My room was decorated elegantly, with rustic nautical notes, with turquoise wooden windows and a balcony directly overlooking the swimming pool and the ocean. I was also treated to a birthday cake which the staff had left in my room.
Colombo: City Tour Before Boarding
My time in Sri Lanka was coming to an end. I had a late-night flight out of Colombo airport, so I just spent my last day there. After check out from the Avani hotel in Bentota, it was about 2-hour drive north to Colombo via a modern highway.
There are Many Noteworthy Temples in Colombo
Colombo is a large commercial city of over 6 million that is often overlooked by tourists in favor of greener Kandy and other parts of the island. Colombo is inhabited by all of the country’s ethnic and religious groups. The Red Mosque, in red and white bricks constructed to resemble a pomegranate fruit, is located in the busy market area of Pettah is one of the landmark buildings not to miss. There is a long stretch of beach and a promenade to enjoy watching sunset with the locals. Colombo’s Beira Lake is also a nice area to cool off in the shade, with many restaurants of all budgets and views of the Colombo World Trade Center, alongside other commercial skyscrapers. Nearby, the Gangarama Buddhist Temples is the city’s most famous. The Isipathanaramaya Buddhist Temple in the Colombo 5 District is one of the city’s oldest and most elaborate, with giant statues and theatrical 3-D murals depicting Buddhist mythology and folklore.
For Souvenir Shopping, Laksala is your best bet. The government owned-store in the upscale Colombo 7 district offers the best handicrafts from across the island. Here you can find the best quality teas and spices, textiles and leather, wooden carvings, gems and tribal masks. The prices are fixed, so you can’t really bargain as you would in some of the other privately-owned shops. The terrace bar of the Jetwing Colombo 7 hotel is a great place to relax and enjoy views of the modern skyline. If you are really hungry, then the Plates restaurant at the Cinnamon Grand Hotel offers a generous variety of seafood, international cuisine and dessert. It was my family’s first choice when we were in Colombo together.
Colombo is constantly growing and I saw consistent growth and change the three separate times that I visited. As a highly strategic location in the Indian Ocean, there has been a lot of international investment in a futuristic port city district within Colombo that resembles the likes of Singapore and Dubai.
My first trip to Sri Lanka lasted for 9 days. Given that it is a relatively small territory, Sri Lanka offers so much diversity packed into one country: Culture and ancient temples, colonial architecture, beaches to tea-nestled hills and wild jungles, as well as different climates, and animal species. I would recommend a 10 or 15-day itinerary to see the whole island by car.
I came back twice, but there are so many more places in Sri Lanka that I would like to see. I am waiting for a reason to come back. On my next trip, I would also like to visit:
· Yala National Park
· The Tamil city of Jaffna in the North (In fact, I have only been to the Sinhalese part of Sri Lanka. I am yet to experience the Tamil-speaking North and Northeast)
· The East Coast beaches of Arugam Bay
· The Ancient City of Anuradhapura
· Adam’s Peak
· Lots of other places!
Sri Lanka Pros:
Safe
Relatively Affordable
Nice and friendly people
Very clean (Air, water, city streets)
Lots of biodiversity
Rich in culture and architecture
Great food
Spa and wellness experiences
Sri Lanka Cons:
Limited travel options once there (private car is the best option)
Not much of a party scene for those who enjoy the nightlife
Tourist infrastructure lacking in some parts of the country
