Spain: Two-Week Andalusia In-Depth Trip
After my trip to Spain in 2016, I returned 6 years later and choose one region to spend more time in and explore at a more leisurely pace: Andalucía.
This time, I was meeting family in Europe for the holidays and had spent almost a month there all the way from Canada.
Also, my stay in Spain was split into 2 parts:
· Western Andalucía (mainly Seville and nearby towns) in mid to late December 2022
· Eastern Andalucía (Granada and Malaga) in early January 2023
Getting there:
I flew from Vancouver via Air Canada and landed in Amsterdam as my first stop in Europe for a few days, where I got to see an old friend for a few days.
From Amsterdam, I took Vueling airlines to Seville with a layover of a few hours in Barcelona. It also happened that the World Cup finals were playing right during my layover hours at Barcelona airport. Not all places at the airport were showing the final game, and most airport bars and cafes were full. Some people were able to stream the game on their laptops and tablets, and they were hospitable enough to let others who didn’t join them at their table so that they could all watch the match together. I got to watch the final game with a few locals at the airport bar, the energy was amazing as Argentina ended up winning, and it was an overall great start to my trip.
Seville, the Capital of Andalucia, is the Largest City in Southern Spain and the Country’s 4th Largest
A Convenient Hotel in the City Center
A few hours later, I arrived in Seville. I took a taxi from the airport to the Room 007 Select Tetuan hotel downtown (approximately 28 Euros) since it was already late at night and I had quite a bit of luggage. There are bus options available as well. The hotel itself is tucked away on a pedestrian shopping street (Calle Sierpes). It is not directly accessible by car, so I had to haul my luggage just for a few minutes until I found it and checked in. While Room 007 Select is neat and centrally-located, I found my room to be very small and not suitable for more than one person. The bathroom and shower have transparent glass walls, which would make it difficult to share the room.
Western Andalusia: Seville and Cadiz
Day 1
The Sidewalks Smell like Fresh Citrus
My hotel had a small coffee shop in the lobby, but I decided to explore the neighborhood the next morning for some variety. There are many small bodegas around Calle Sierpes where the locals come in the early morning for coffee and breakfast. They are usually small, hole-in-the wall type of areas that are owner or family operated. I would recommend El Pica for a truly authentic experience. It opens very early, is decorated in traditional Andalusian style, has indoor and bar seating, as well as a few tables outside. You can have a full breakfast, with coffee or fresh orange juice for around 5-7 Euros.
It is also worth noting that in Spain, tapas (or small plates of hot or cold food) often accompany every drink you order at a bar. Those range from seafood to charcuterie to vegetarian options. So, for as little as 2 Euros or less for a pint of beer, you can have an accompanying snack for free. You can then order a medium plate or a ración (full meal) option of the same item, as displayed on the menu and at your own discretion. Otherwise, keep ordering drinks and enjoy the different free tapas that come along with them.
It also helps to know a few words in Spanish, as not many locals can speak English. Also, make sure you have an eSim installed so that you can navigate the city seamlessly. I chose Airalo for an affordable data plan that offers several top-up options. Streets downtown Seville are small and can be confusing, but it is also a pleasure to get lost in the small alleyways that date back several centuries. Seville is famous for its varied architecture and different cultural influences, so you will be taking lots of pictures. Many Andalusian towns, including Seville, have their streets lined with citrus trees. They smell fresh and add so much color and zest to the place, however make sure to not pick any to eat as they are bitter and are often only used for a specific sort of jam.
The Entrance to Alcazar
For my first day in Seville, I had planned to visit the Royal Alcazar. Much of southern Spain was under Moorish rule until the middle of the past century, so it still has a lot of Arabesque-style influence on its architecture. I made sure to book my ticket online in advance, so make sure to do that as well to avoid disappointment. The Alcazar (adjacent to the Seville Cathedral with the Giralda tower) was the site of several dynasties of Moorish and Castilian kingdoms, and it is a vast complex with ornate columns, beautiful tiles with Arabic calligraphy, lush gardens and orchards and fountains. It is easily reached by foot from anywhere in the city and I spent a few hours walking through the different wings of the palace.
There are lots of options to eat nearby, and many offer a several-course menú del día (or ‘Menu of the Day’) options for under 12-15 Euros (drinks included!) Afterwards, I did some more walking and chose to visit the nearby Santa Cruz neighborhood. I had stayed in Santa Cruz during my previous visit to the city, and it was a pleasure to revisit some of the old labyrinth-like side streets that I fell in love with during my first trip to Seville – particularly in the old Jewish quarter. The effortless mix of Christian, Muslim and Jewish architecture and history of this region is what makes it very unique to most of Europe.
Spain and Andalucía take their siesta time seriously. Many shops and restaurants will typically close for a few hours during the day (each with their own schedule), so I did as the locals do went back to the hotel for a nap before heading back out in the evening to discover more places.
Seville is split by the Guadalquivir River, and much of the evening activity happens by the riverside. There are several bridges that split the areas of the city with stunning panoramic views. I chose to walk along the Triana bridge and explore the neighborhood of Triana. It is slightly less touristy that the city core, with a mix of residential zones and a street full of bars and cafes to watch the passerby and hang out with the very friendly locals.
Guadalquivir River at Night from the Triana Bridge
Drinks here are also very affordable and for about 2.5 euros, you can have a full pint of beer or a glass of house wine. I had a tour booked for the next day, so I headed back to my room at about 11 AM. Evenings, however, end here very late and many bars will stay open till 3 AM, with nightclubs playing music and serving drinks till sunrise hours. It is also important to note that tipping is not customary in Spain, and may even be considered rude or condescending.
Day 2
The next morning, I joined my tour for the nearby cities of Jerez de la Frontera and Cadiz.
Jerez de la Frontera is about a 90-minute drive from Seville. While our tour only passed briefly through Jerez, we got to stop at a sherry distillery to sample the local specialty wines. The town is famous for its fortified wine or sherry. The factory or distillery was located in a nice old Hacienda type of building, and it was interesting to see how this type of wine is made –even if it isn’t my favorite type of beverage. There is also a shop where you can bring some Jerez to friends back home, or to enjoy yourself.
Cadiz was definitely the highlight of this tour. It is often referred to as the oldest city in Europe and was established by the Phoenicians millennia ago. What makes Cadiz unique is that it lies on both, the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. In fact, it is where the first ships from Europe sailed to the colonies, or what later become known as the Americas.
The Atlantic Ocean from the Cadiz Promenade
Our van stopped by the town square, and our first stop was the local market. Lovers of seafood are in for a treat, as the varieties are endless. The fish is extremely fresh and it seemed that every vendor had something unique to offer. From lobsters to gigantic tuna to sea urchins, this market is a foodie lover’s paradise. You can order your food and eat right there. For those who do not enjoy fish as much, there are many stalls that also serve regional dishes from all of Spain.
Afterwards, headed towards the beach overlooking the old town. You can definitely feel that Cadiz lies on the Atlantic, as the winds here are very strong. The promenade also offers spectacular views of the city, which kind of resembles Havana or Cartagena with its colorful buildings and impressive cathedral overlooking the port.
Cadiz felt like a very district place, and I would highly recommend it for anyone who is staying for more than 2 days in Seville.
The Cadiz Waterfront Kind of Looks Like Havana
Day 3
I slept until the late morning and chose to spend the day at a more leisurely pace. I had been to the Seville Cathedral before, but revisiting the place was an absolute for its size and importance as a cultural landmark, and it was worth the 15 Euro online ticket price. I spent about half an hour at the cathedral, but did not climb up the Giralda Tower with its observatory deck as the climb was long and the stairs were very crowded.
I had also purchased tickets for the Guadalquivir River cruise online as well and spent the early afternoon enjoying the city views from a small motorboat. It was a warm sunny day, and it felt good to cool off sailing through the water.
I had an early dinner by the river and headed to grandiose Plaza de España and the Parque Maria Luiza. The square was built in the 1920’s when Seville hosted the World Fair and the gorgeous pavilions were built to house thousands of visitors. The area is also surrounded by wide tree-lined avenues, as well as the impressive pavilions of many countries that also participated in the exhibition.
Day 4
On my last day in Seville, and after an itinerary packed with sightseeing and activities, I decided to just take it slow and check out the many shops downtown. Many of them offer local fashion and novelty items, and considering that it was Christmas season, the displays in the shops and around the city were a joy to look at.
I had one last stop in mind before leaving Seville, and that was to visit a Hamman or a traditional Andalucian style spa. I went with the most exclusive option and booked an evening visit to the Aire Ancient Baths. The multi-level complex is housed in a beautiful heritage building. They have a few pricing options, and I chose to go with one of the pricier ones. My pass (around 95 Euros) included a total of 2 hours to use the facilities, a 45-minute message and 20 minutes on in the outdoor rooftop hot tub with a glass of cava and views of the Giralda Tower right from the hot tub. The spa was a truly luxury experience and is beautifully decorated. It has retained much of its traditional décor, with some upgrades and has upwards of 4 pools to choose from with all kinds of temperatures and pressure levels. My absolute favorite was the salt pool, where you can release all tiredness into the water and completely float like you would in the Dead Sea. Aire Ancient Baths is absolutely worth the splurge for when in Seville.
Eastern Andalusia: Granada and Malaga/Torremolinos
The Alhambra Palace in Granada is Spain’s Most-Visited Landmark
Day 1: New Years on the Road/ Rome to Malaga
I took an early morning flight on New Year’s Day from Rome to Malaga with Vueling. It was a direct flight of about 90 minutes. A one-way flight was costly considering that it was the holiday season. I also could not find more convenient dates. I celebrated New Year’s with family (after spending 10 days with them all over Italy) and left my hotel in Rome at 3 AM to take the flight. It was all worth it at the end.
I arrived in Malaga at about 8 AM. From there, I took a bus from the airport to the Malaga central bus station to take another journey onwards to Granada for an additional two hours.
It was a scenic bus ride as we passed different terrain up the mountainous road and through some really pretty towns with traditional architecture.
From the Granada bus station, it was about a 10 minute or 6 Euro taxi ride downtown to my hotel, Vincci Albayzin Hotel on Carrera de la Virgin, where I would stay for the next 4 nights. The hotel is an elegant Andalusian-style building, with a courtyard restaurant and a tapas bar. My room was decorated in soft colors, as with the rest of the hotel and had a balcony overlooking the street. The street is actually more like a boulevard, with plenty of shops, cafes, tapas bars and the famous El Corte Ingles shopping mall and art house movie theater Cine Madrigal within one block from the hotel.
Granada is one of Spain’s most popular tourist cities, as well as being renowned as a University City and a cultural and intellectual center. Its friendly locals, safe environment, relatively cool climate (especially at night) and perfect blend of elegance and bohemian atmosphere make it a truly unique experience. It is one of my favorite cities in the world.
My ticket to visit Alhambra palace, for a total of 50 Euros included a walking tour of the city. I was lucky to go on get my walking tour on the day I arrived, as many activities and places were closed for New Year’s Day. From my hotel, it was about a 15-minute walk upon to Plaza Nueva, which was the meeting point. From there, we walked through the small city streets to familiarize ourselves with some of the city’s highlights and get a feel of the Sacromonte and hilly Albaycín neighborhoods. We stopped at many lookout points such as the Mirador Saint Nicolas to take pictures of the historical neighborhoods and Alhambra palace (my plan for the following day) for sunset.
Gypsy Houses in Albaycin
The neighborhood of Albaycín is located on a steep hill with narrow streets and houses with durable Moorish-era houses with red roof tiles. Walking up and down the alleyways one can get the best views overlooking the Alhambra fortress complex and the city from below. Comfortable shoes are recommended, and it is not an easy hike. Nearby Sacromonte is a continuously inhabited neighborhood with beautiful whitewashed caves that have housed Granada’s distinguished gypsy community for centuries. Nowadays, many of those houses have been converted to cafes and flamenco bars where the distinctly Granada-style gypsy flamingo dances are performed for visitors.
After the tour ended. I chose to end the evening trying out the small tapas bars by the cathedral in the city center. There were lots to choose from. Some bodegas I would recommend are La Castellana and Taberna Granados, both of which are popular with locals. Walking to my hotel even after 2 AM felt completely safe and the streets are well illuminated at night.
Granada’s Skyline at Night
The next day, I took advantage of the fact that I had no early morning flights or buses and caught up on sleep. The only activity I had planned for the day was one of the highlights of my trip, I was finally about to visit Alhambra palace (one of my bucket list items). I had made sure to prebook my ticket online for the visit at least a week in advance. Alhambra is Spain’s most visited landmark, so tickets sell out quickly (some even include nighttime palace visits). One more thing that visitors must remember is that an original passport copy is required to enter Alhambra. I have seen people refused entry by the staff even if they had already purchased tickets because they did not have their original physical passport on them. Other forms of ID are not accepted.
Granada is also not a very big city, and most attractions are within walking distance from the city center (if you don’t mind walking up steep hills). It is also very youthful. Out of 250,000 population, approximately a quarter are students or academics. The pace of life in Granada is slower, and it has inspired countless artists and writers such as Ernest Hemingway.
Taxis in Granada are also very affordable and can get you to most destinations for under 8 Euros.
I spent the early afternoon walking the central streets such as the busy Gran Via de Colón and Reyes Católicos. Both have a mix of International chain stores and independent clothing boutiques and cafes. Calle Elvira with its Arabesque-themed stores and café is also worth visiting. One store that caught my attention is 5V Valverde. Spain produces high quality shoes, and this artisanal shoemaking company has beautiful designs. I bought two pairs that were on sale for 50-80 Euros.
Afterwards, I finally headed up to the Alhambra palace complex.
Again, my ticket to Alhambra was booked online for 50 Euros. It included the walking tour I had taken the prior evening. When selecting your ticket, there are several options. Some include a visit to the Nasrid Palace, while other ones don’t. Some also have special nighttime visits to Nasrid Palace, but I was unable to find an available night tour since tickets are hard to come across.
Alhambra is a Miracle of Symmetrical Design, Landscaping and Moorish Architecture
Alhambra was just as I had expected and more. Yes, it is touristy but walking through the gardens, the imposing fortress, as well as all the perfect geometric designs in Nasrid palace are difficult to describe in pictures or words. One must visit to feel the magnificent the place complex is and how relevant it was to Moorish civilization in Europe at the time. The snow-covered Cierra Nevada mountains in the background added even more of a magical feeling to my visit. Alhambra is one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences where no detail is out of place.
My last two days were slightly less action packed. After having seen the main highlights of the city, I chose to stick to more quiet plans and simply wander around Granada’s less famous streets without the pressure of having a full itinerary or my camera on me the whole time.
However, before leaving, I made it a point to visit Granada’s famous flamenco cave taberna Venta el Gallo in Sacromonte. My ticket (booked at the hotel for 19 Euros) included hotel pickup and drop off. I was lucky to be greeted with a front-row seat upon arrival and the 90-minute Gypsy Flamenco show was performed with great passion and dedication by popular Andalusian dancers who grew up with the Flamenco culture. Each part of the region has its own Flamenco style, including Cadiz and Seville. In Granada, this dance has traditionally performed inside caves.
Malaga/Torremolinos: Spain’s Year-Round Busy Costa del Sol
My visit to Granada had come to an end, and I took the same bus route back to Malaga. It was January 5th, and there was the Three Kings Parade happening in Malaga, but I did not get there on time to see the parade. My plan was to check in at my hotel at the nearby resort town and head back to Malaga for sightseeing.
A Long Stretch of Sandy Beach Makes Torremolinos a Premier Sun Destination on the Mediterranean Costa del Sol
I had booked my next three nights in the nearby resort town of Torremolinos, but I made it a point to also make day trips into Malaga to explore the many attractions that it offers. If you enjoy museum visits, then Malaga, the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and Antonio Banderas, is definitely worth adding to your Andalucía trip.
Considering that I was travelling during Low Season, I managed to get a great rate at the upscale Melia Costa del Sol in Torremolinos. My parents had actually stayed at that hotel almost twenty years back when they visited Spain, so it felt really good to be able to relive their experience as well. Additionally, it is one of the highest rated resort hotels in the area and is situated right at the beach in Torremolinos. It is also very popular for its picturesque rooftop bar and the spectacular views from atop. Melia’s breakfast buffet was also very impressive with its variety. My room came with its own balcony overlooking the beach. The quality of service there is top-notch.
Torremolinos is famous for its beach and nightlife. It was a fishing village that grew rapidly in the ‘60s and ‘70s of the past century. What it lacks in cultural attractions it makes up for with its nightlife. The party there seems to go all night long, and there are tons of seafood restaurants to choose from. Torremolinos is one of Spain’s most popular beach resorts. However, since it was January, I could not swim. Still, it was great to go for a beach stroll by the Mediterranean and absorb some Spanish sun.
Day 1
My plan was to spend the daytime in Malaga and come back to Torremolinos in the evening for dinner and drinks in its countless bars. I headed to Malaga shortly after checking in at Melia Torremolinos. There is a frequent bus between Malaga and Torremolinos, and you can get to either point for less than 2 Euros and in less than 20 minutes.
Malaga is a beautiful coastal city than is highly overlooked by tourists who use it mainly as a stop towards Granada or the resorts of the Costa del Sol. In addition to elegant art deco buildings, Malaga’s historical center has beautiful colorfully decked out buildings. It is a pleasure to walk around the small streets that offer museums, cafes, and lots of shopping.
The Alcazaba fortress is a city worth visiting in Malaga. It is a Moorish-era castle that conveniently sits on top of an even older structure, the Roman theater in the foreground. Both sites from different eras juxtapose together and offer a glimpse into all the ancient civilizations that have passed through this southern tip of Spain. I had missed the Three Kings parade that day, but they had beautiful installations from the celebration left in the area, which made for great photos.
After I got to Malaga, I realized that it was a holiday and that most muse ums were closed that day. I managed two find two that were open: The Russian Museum and the Automobile and Fashion Museum. Both museums are housed in the same building complex, the old tobacco factory of Malaga and are about 3 km away from the historical center. The Russian Museum has several galleries, with a permanent collection and a temporary one. I found it to be underwhelming and not worth the 11 Euro admission. Luckily, I had plenty of time to visit the adjacent Automobile and Fashion Museum. It was a true treat to wander through the vast room displaying exclusive and high-end designs in the world of automobiles and haute couture throughout every decade of the past century. The displays were vivid, glamorous and lots of fun. While the combination of fashion and automobiles may seem odd at first, it made perfect sense at this museum. I highly recommend this visual treat for everyone passing through Malaga.
The Malaga Promenade at Night
Day 2
One of Malaga’s highlights is that this small city has over 30 museums. The local tourism board refers to Malaga as ‘The City of Museums’. Considering that I had missed most of them the day before, I headed into town early the next day for more cultural exploration. It is worth noting that all of Malaga’s museums are free on Sundays, but I happened to be there on another day, so I had to pay I visited on that day, with The Picasso Museum being the costliest at 9 Euros and only 1.5 Euros for The Museum of Malaga.
-The Picasso Museum: Even if you are not a fan of modern art, no visit to Malaga, the birthplace of Pablo Picasso is complete without a visit to the Picasso Museum. Here, there is a permanent collection of many of his works on two floors, which include sketches, paintings in his famous cubism theme and some sculptures as well. The building housing the museum is also beautiful, which is even more reason to visit.
-The Museum of Malaga: The Malaga Museum offers a glimpse of the city’s history over the past millennia. It offers archaeological artefacts from prehistoric times to the Phoenician and Roman civilizations that passed through the area. Upstairs, there are beautiful paintings from classical to contemporary art. I was really impressed by this museum, and the ticket price is merely symbolic.
-The Arts and Customs Museum or The Muse Unicaja de Artes y Costumbres Populares: This is a tiny museum in historical center that showcases how the people of Malaga traditionally lived. It recreates a large house, with a courtyard in the middle. Exhibition rooms on two stories recreate real-life settings from Malaga in the past centuries, from a tavern and boat storage room to a small church and bedrooms of peasants and nobility on top. The whole museum can be covered in about 30 minutes for the admission price of 3 Euros.
There are plenty of other museums to visit in Malaga, which I would have explored if I had more time. I had lunch in a nearby tapas bars and walked along the seaside promenade, where tourists and cruise ships land. This malecón, which stretches over a kilometer is a great place for a stroll and is a favorite pastime activity among locals and foreigners alike.
I took the bus back to Torremolinos and enjoyed another evening of bar hopping and meeting friendly locals. I did not stay too long because I had an early morning flight to Amsterdam overnight in an airport hotel and back to Vancouver from then on.
Colorful Murals in Central Malaga
Why visit Andalucía:
Pros:
Very affordable (free tapas with your drinks for 2 Euros or less)
Friendly local people
Great food
Safer than places like Madrid and Barcelona (especially for thefts and tourist scams)
Lots of sun (even in the winter)
Cons:
Can get very hot during the summer months (especially in Seville)
English not widely spoken
