Peru beyond Machu Picchu: All You Can Eat

Lima: The Gray Peal of the Pacific

Peru is South America’s most visited country among international tourists. The number one reason why people from across the world come to Peru is to visit macho Pichhu, the ancient Inca capital and one of the most Instagrammed spots in the world. My itinerary did not include Macho Picchu. Still, Peru is a large country with lots of nature, history and culture to be discovered.

Another reason for Peru’s popularity among travelers is the food. The capital city of Lima is the undisputed capital of South America’s food scene, blending age-old ingredients with recipes introduced by Asian immigrants who continue to live in Lima to this day.

I flew into Lima from Bogota, Colombia. My plan was to spend a week in Peru, split between coastal Lima and mountainous Cusco.

It was June 2024, and because Peru sits just south of the equator, it was the start of winter – or typically ‘low season’ in Peru. The average temperature during the winter months ranges between 15 and 20 degrees Celsius, or light jacket weather. Rain is very rare due to the desert climate. With a population of just over 8 million, Lima is the second largest city after Cairo to be located within a desert.

When arriving in Lima, expect to spend some time in traffic before reaching your accommodation. Many international flights come in late at night or early morning. Conversion rate at the time was about 4 Peruvian Soles per 1 US Dollar. A taxi ride from the airport costs around 80 soles. I learned later on that you can also request an Uber pickup from the airport terminal. Overall, it is the best way to get around the city. Expect to pay anywhere between 3 to 5 USD on your Uber rides between touristic spots in the city, depending on traffic and time of day.

I booked my four-night stay in Lima at the upscale San Isidro district at the Dazzler Hotel by Wyndham for just under $60 USD, including breakfast (which was very modest and extremely busy in the morning). I usually avoid staying in chain hotels when traveling, and would recommend a local or boutique hotel instead. San Isidro is Lima’s wealthiest district, with elegant residential and business towers sit in stark contrast with the area around the airport and the endless stretch of shantytowns around the city. Like much of the continent, the wealth gap here is also very wide. Despite this, it ranks much higher on the safety index than big cities in neighboring countries such as Colombia, Ecuador and Brazil. Tourists and locals can safely walk around with phones and camera equipment in hand in most parts of the city, which is a very rare sight in other places.

English is spoken by those who work in Peru’s large tourism industry, but it is advisable to have at least basic knowledge of Spanish in order to interact more with the locals and get the most out of your trip. It also helps you gain confidence when bargaining at the markets or joining more affordable tours that are only offered in Spanish. Having spent the previous year in Colombia and with good knowledge of Spanish, I felt comfortable visiting Peru and planning my daily activities independently.

Tourists often overlook Lima and use the city as an entry point before flying out to explore the Inca Ruins in the Andes or the Amazon rainforest. Peru is a large country and it takes time to explore its different corners. Lesser-known destinations within Peru such as the northern coastal town of Trujillo and Ayacucho, Peru’s capital of artisans, are also gaining popularity among visitors. The country’s tourist infrastructure is above standard, with several low-cost flights and bus operators.

While Lima may not be regarded as South America’s most exciting capital city, there is still quite a bit to see (and eat) here. A 3-4 day itinerary is recommended to get a full taste of the city.

The most popular districts for tourists to stay are beachfront Miraflores, San Isidro, bohemian Barranca and ‘El Centro’, the city’s historical center. The latter has several hotels to choose from, but the area is considerably less busy and less safe at night. On the other hand, I felt perfectly safe walking in San Isidro at night. My hotel was located 2 blocks away from a 24/7 convenience store that I made late-night trips to.

The first thing anyone should do when in Lima is to visit its magnificent historical center. At its heart is Plaza de Armas square. The imposing, grandiose Lima Cathedral, is famous for the gold-plated altar of Lima founder Francisco Pizarro. The Government Palace across the street, still in operation today. It is recommended to head up to one of the rooftop cafes around the square to get a full 180-percent view and shots of this Plaza de Armas, which in my opinion is actually the most beautiful colonial-style public square that I have seen in South America. Elegant Baroque landmarks, such as the Archbishop’s Palace and the Municipal Palace, line all four corners. A circular fountain adorns the center of Plaza de Armas, with manicured lawns and tall palm trees providing greenery and shade.

From here, gold traveled from the newly-discovered colonies to Spain. The opulence and wealth of the era is clearly marked in the grandeur of historical landmarks of Lima, founded by Pizarro as ‘The City of the Kings’.

June is a month of festivities in Peru, leading up to the Inti Reymi Festival of the Sun to celebrate winter solstice. Daily parades and festivities take place in public squares. Our visit to downtown also coincided with a parade of dance troops from around Peru and visiting countries, each in with their own dance moves and unique costumes.

Much of the UNESCO-protected historical center dates back to the 16th century, with hundreds of buildings on side streets to stroll around. Characteristic of colonial Peruvian architecture are the wooden window blinds and balconies with intricate designs that pop right out and make for great photo opps. The buildings, while now mostly abandoned or converted into offices, are well preserved, are painted in vibrant blue and yellow tones. Lima is the meeting point of the desert and the Pacific Ocean, the desert climate often carries winds and eclipses the sun, giving the sky a distinctly grey color. The colorful buildings in the historical center offset the dullness of the winter skies.

Lima historical building with wooden balconies and doorframes — Wooden Balconies and Doorframes are Common in Historical Lima

Lima’s quirkiest attraction are its catacombs under the San Francisco Basilica and Convent. For an entrance of about $7, visitors can access the convent and catacombs as part of a mandatory tour. Inside, pictures are not allowed. Lovers of colonial history and religious art are treated with an opulent main hall, corridors with geometric tiles imported from the old world, vivid Catholic murals and a central orchard. The convent’s library alone is worth the visit with antique volumes of scientific and religious books decorating wooden bookshelves.

From there, visitors take the steps down to the catacombs. Originally planned under the convent in the event of an earthquake, the crypt served as a burial site for thousands of Lima residents throughout the centuries. Collections of skulls and human bones are visible in the vaults when passing through the narrow tunnels. At one point in history, it is believed that the catacombs housed up to 70,000 bodies until using the site as for burial was outlawed in the 19th century. A small part is accessible to the public as part of the tour, but the full size and extent to which this underground necropolis spreads is yet to be discovered.

My visit to the catacombs raised my appetite, and I was excited for lunch as soon as I left the convent. A friend connected me to a Lima-based tour guide, Alejandro, who suggested that we eat at a nearby restaurant specializing in northern Peruvian seafood. Alejandro, also a journalist, runs in-depth cultural tours in Peru, albeit mostly in Spanish.

Al Sazón de Walter is a casual eatery that is mostly frequented by locals. It is a no-frills, unassuming place where the focus of the experience is the food. While many countries in Latin America now have their own variations of Ceviche, Peru is hailed as the birthplace of this fresh and zesty seafood dish. Authentic Peruvian Ceviche is simple, with fine chunks of raw white fish (sole or sea bass) marinated in lime juice and onions, and garnished with cilantro and crunchy, toasted corn nuts. Prawn, squid and octopus is optionally added to or substitutes the fish fillet chunks. In the past decade, ceviche has exploded as an appetizer or main dish at restaurants internationally. Peruvian food is one my all-time favorites, and my first taste of ceviche in its home was amazing.

At Al Al Sazón de Walter, I also got to try Ceviche in a different way. Patacones Acevichados are fried plantains with a ceviche filling, served with Leche de Tigre as a dipping sauce. Another local favorite, Leche de Tigre (or ‘Tiger’s milk’) is a spicy citrusy cocktail of blended fish and herbs. As a main dish, I had octopus grilled with asparagus spears and chunks of yuca.

One cannot claim that they’ve been to Peru without trying Inca Kola. Peruvians hold their local soft drink in high regard. It is yellow, fizzy and tastes like bubble gum instead of cola. A healthier option, and my personal favorite, is the Chicha Morada. The purple beverage is fermented and slightly sweet. It is made from purple corn, hence the color. There are over 50 varieties of corn in Peru, and it has been cultivated and used here since early civilizations. Another Indigenous crop native to Peru is the potato, with an astonishing 4,000 varieties ranging in size and color, from pink to blue and purple.

Peruvian culinary tradition is a blend of Indigenous, colonial and Asian. In its heyday during the gold rush, Lima attracted thousands of Asian immigrants from the other side of the Pacific Ocean. Hundreds of thousands of Peruvians claim Chinese or Japanese ancestry. This influence is most notable observed in the food. Local dishes like Chifa (stir-fried rice) and Lomo Saltado (wok-fried meat in soy sauce) were introduced by Chinese immigrants in the 19th century and soon became local Peruvian superstars.

To learn more about the Asian community’s influence on mainstream Peruvian culture and culinary traditions, head to Chinatown. Within walking distance from the historical center, Barrio Chino is a small, two-block neighborhood founded by Lima’s Chinese immigrants shortly after their arrival. The entrance is marked by traditional Chinese gates, with pedestrian friendly streets that are lined with Chifa restaurants and shops selling Asian products. The area does get crowded, so keep your valuables hidden and avoid coming alone at night. Compared to other Chinatowns I have been to in North America and Asia, Lima’s is much smaller. Yet, it is a fun experience for lovers of food and urban history that adds a very interesting layer to exploring Lima and contemporary Peruvian culture.

Huaca Pucllana Pyramid Lima — Climbing Huaca Pucllana

My next two days were mostly spent in the Miraflores district, with many points of interest concentrated in the area.

Lima may have been conquered by the Spanish in the 1500s, but there was a thriving civilization there long before. Huaca Pucllana is an ancient site right in the middle of the swanky Miraflores district next to modern buildings and mansions. The giant terraced pyramid was built by the Lima People, and predates Inca civilization by 1,000 years, all the way back to 400 AD.

The pyramid temple was built with adobe and clay for religious ceremonies and in honor of the natural resource of water and is comprised of several platforms on different levels where visitors can walk around and admire the city views. Not much is known about what happened to the early Lima People. As with many of the civilizations that inhabited the land, it was most likely absorbed into the Inca Empire as it expanded and incorporated nearby cultures under one umbrella. Tours are offered in English and Spanish for about $10 USD. Just before you exit the archaeological site, there is a small garden displaying trees and fruits native to Peru, as well as the country’s most beloved resident: the llama. Another that has been raised in Peru since Pre-Inca times is Quy, a fluffy guinea pig that is actually raised for its meat in mountainous Peru and Ecuador.

Miraflores is a large district with quaint sidewalks and greenery. The streets of Lima are very clean and well maintained. From Huaca Pucllana, it was about a 20-minute walk to reach another of Lima’s gems, the oceanfront side of Miraflores. Here, visitors are treated to some of the best views of all the Pacific Ocean from above.

Giant moss-covered cliffs tower from above the Pacific Ocean. Above, a long promenade is where locals from all walks of life congregate to exercise along the boardwalk and enjoy breathtaking views. The area is also known as Parque del Amor or Love’s Park. Colorful flowers decorate the lawn in geometrical patterns and whimsical tiles decorate the park benches. Since my visit coincided with the arrival of winter, the salty air rose from Ocean below creating a refreshing mist. The beach below is formed of black pebbles. It is accessible to the public, but the water is very cold and the waves are strong. Still, you might run into the occasional surfer here. Adventure lovers can go parachuting over the cliffs and along the ocean, and it is one of the most advertised activity for adrenaline junkies among tour operators.

The boardwalk is where Lima’s premium hotels and luxury condos costing millions of dollars are concentrated. Despite an evident demarcation of the haves and have-nots, everyone is welcome at Love’s Park and on the promenade. Here is where you will also find Larcomar, a posh open-air shopping center with international retailers and restaurants overlooking the ocean. My tour guide and I went to a restaurant called Tanta, which operates several chains across the country.

The presentation of Peruvian dishes is a feast to the eyes; as though the locals eat with their eyes as much as they do with their mouths. For a starter, we had Causa. A multilayered mix of pureed potato, eggs vegetables and meat filling. The restaurant’s version replaces the usual chicken in the Causa with tuna. Causa kind of looks like a cake. It is bright yellow on top, with perfectly stacked layers of savory ingredients and condiments. We also had Tacu Tacu, which are deepfied rice and beans croquette and Aji de Gallina, a creamy bright yellow stew with shredded chicken over rice and with chunks of boiled egg. Peru also has a wine growing region to the south of Lima, and I had my dinner with local wine.

As a foodie destination that now draws visitors from the whole planet, there are culinary experiences for all budgets in Lima. Expect to pay as little as $4-5 dollars for a meal at the market or nondescript eateries, to about $15-20 per person at mid-range restaurants and upwards of $150 for fine dining experiences that have been popping up around the city. Tipping is also customary and expected in Peru.

El Malecon connects Miraflores to Barranco, an artsy neighborhood with nightlife spots. Barranco is popular for its street art and cozy spots for drinks and street food stalls. A popular sandwich to try in Lima is the Sandwich or Sandwich, which Peruvian-style Sanguicherías now popular in other countries such as Colombia. The round sandwiches are typically cut in half, with pork belly fillings marinated overnight then fried. A paste of aji peppers and mayo, mixed with lime, garlic and cumin give it an extra zing.

The Municipal Park is a popular hangout spot for locals of all ages to enjoy live music and street performances. For those looking for a safe and budget-friendly alternative to San Isidro and Miraflores, Barranco has plenty of Airbnb’s and boutique accommodations.

Compared to cities in Colombia, Mexico and Brazil, nightlife in Peru’s capital is much more quiet. Peruvians are generally much more reserved and conservative than their more boisterous cousins. In Lima, you won’t hear loud Reggaetón and Salsa music while walking around the street. Even in Barranco, the vibe is calm and subtle after sunset. When getting to Barranco, one place worth visiting is the wooden Bridge of Sighs. Rumor has it that if you make a wish then cross one end to the other (about a 90 second stroll) while holding your breath, then your wish will come true. I almost made it till the end.

There’s been heated debate on whether the national alcoholic beverage, Pisco, was first invented in Peru or Chile. Pisco has a slight yellow color and is made from distilled grape juice, with an alcohol potency much higher than wine. It can be enjoyed on its own or in a cocktail such as Pisco Sour (a frothy mix of Pisco, lime juice, syrup and egg whites to create a foam), as well as Chilcano, a simple and refreshing two-ingredient beverage of Pisco with a fruit juice or a fizzy soft drink. The bar we chose was themed around Peruvian folklore. The interior is covered in very fun and elaborate tribal masks, while the twin doors to the entrance and windows are painted in motifs that resemble retablos. Retablos are portable wooden boxes with swinging doors where vividly painted figurines depict a wide range of scenes, from nativity to Andean village culture. The following day, I got to marvel at many retablos at the Indian Market in Miraflores.

The Indian Market or Mercado Indio is a bazaar-style market dedicated to traditional clothes, arts and crafts from all regions of Peru, including the Andes, the desert and the Amazon. There are some souvenir shops around Plaza de Armas in the historic center, but this market is highly recommended for the variety of items on display from vast corners of the country. Prices here are slightly higher, but there is some room to negotiate with the vendor.

Retablos are my absolute favorite type of folk art. This art originates from the Ayacucho region. The figurines were historically made from a potato flour clay mixture. Retablos vary in size and the level of detail, thus affecting prices (which normally start at about $45-50 for a quality piece). Each one is made to depict a theme or a story, most commonly Catholic ones. There are other variations of themes depicted, such as Andean peasant culture and corn harvesting, Textile and hat makers. There are even more modern takes on the retable with such scenes as doctors in the operating room, and other moments inspired from pop and contemporary culture. Retablos are very fragile inside and out, and because I was on the road for another month, I did not buy one.

Other famous souvenirs that can be purchased in Peru include the Torito de Pucará. The ceramic bull-shaped figures originate from the region of Pucará and are painted in different colors and patterns. They are thought to bring fertility and prosperity and are hung above houses for protection.

Of course, one cannot miss the hundreds of shops and stalls selling hats, sweaters, rugs and blankets made from llama and alpaca wool. The designs are very colorful, and the fabric is extremely soft. Prices for a quality alpaca sweater can go up to several hundred USD in Miraflores’ luxury boutiques in and around Larcomar shopping center. Considering that my next destination in Peru was Cusco, the region where most alpaca and llama goods come from, I waited until I could visit the markets there to ensure better deals.

As a sizeable capital city, there are over seventy museums in Lima alone covering different time periods, from prehistoric to the contemporary.

The Larco Museum is a privately-owned museum covering Peruvian folklore and excavations dating back up to 10,000 years. It is Housed in an elegant 18th century mansion characteristic of the posh villas of Miraflores, with a garden courtyard where you can stop for a coffee or a meal. There are over 45,000 artefacts here from the Pre-Columbian period.

The museum is curated chronologically, showcasing each civilization that existed in Peru’s different regions (North, South, Central and Highlands) before the Incas consolidated their empire and before the Spanish subsequently arrived and founded modern-day Peru. Visitors can see ceramics used in ceremonies, ancient weapons and oversized golden items that were worn by warriors and nobility. Before the conquest, gold was used in abundance and served as a material base for items of everyday use.

It’s very atmospheric inside. You can even go into the storage rooms where the majority of the excavated artefacts are in floor-to-ceiling glass cabinets. The excavated items portray humans, animals and spirits in very vivid (if not slightly creepy) detail. At the end of the museum the erotic room is dedicated to ceramic artefacts that depict human sexuality in an exaggerated and comical tone. At the time of my visit, entrance to the Larco Museum was 40 Soles or roughly $10 USD.

I also stopped at the National Museum of National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology and History. It is Lima’s oldest and largest museum. While most exhibition rooms were undergoing construction, entrance was completely free. The only area open to the public mainly chronicled the later stages of Peru’s history, from the Vice Royalty to the nation’s Independence in 1821.

The next three nights of my stay were spent in Cusco, but I did return to Lima for less than 24 hours before flying out of Peru. It was my 37th birthday, and I wanted to treat myself to something special. Alejandro, a very well-informed guide, had mentioned his trips to Lima’s famous witch market and the Bolivian market downtown. Out of curiosity, I asked him to take me to visit a shaman for a reading. I expected to see mummified llamas, snake oil potions and spirit boards. Instead, it was just like any other small indoor market in Peru that sells candles, dried fruits and dessert and some textiles from Bolivia.

Many migrants have crossed the border with Bolivia seeking prosperity in coastal Lima, and there is a sizeable community of Bolivians who share a similar culture to their Indigenous relatives in Peru’s southeast. At the market, a lady shaman dressed in traditional costume runs her own shop. The altar is decorated with portraits of the Virgin Mary and relics from native folklore, blending Catholic with animist traditions. For less than 5 USD, I got a private reading on cocoa leaves, and the shaman reassured me that I had a bright future ahead. This colorful encounter with spiritism and the divine was well worth the small exchange fee.

Cusco: The Capital of the Inca Empire

The journey from Cusco to Lima takes about 90 minutes by plane. There are sleeper busses, but they take over 20 hours in travel time. At the time, LATAM airlines, JetSmart and Sky Airline had several daily flights. I chose Chile-based Sky Airlines because it was about $20 cheaper for a trip total of about $200 USD, including my luggage.

Peruvian Artisan Market in the Sacred Valley outside Cusco

I have taken my fair share of budget airlines in the past, but none were as bad as Sky Airline. The website was not user friendly, with Chatbots replacing customer service. I tried to check in online before my flight, but my reservation code did not work. This meant that I had to go to the airport well in advance to board my flight. My issue was resolved, but I noticed many disgruntled passengers upon boarding. Sky Airline’s reviews online show that they are very inconsistent. Make sure that your luggage adheres exactly to the measurements indicated on the site to avoid extra charges for backpacks and carry-ons. I should have spent a little bit extra and taken LATAM airlines instead.

Thankfully, the flight time was short and the taxi ride from the Cusco airport to my hotel was about 40 Soles or 10 USD. By the time I reached my hotel and checked in, I was feeling defeated, depleted and in desperate need of a nap.

Accommodation is affordable in Cusco, with a few luxury stay options. I found a great deal online and I paid only about $25 USD per night with breakfast. I booked three nights at Awki’s Dream Hotel. My hotel was a delight considering the low price. My room was very clean, but no-frills pretty standard with a window facing the internal corridors. However, hotel staff went out of their way to be helpful and the breakfast had more options than my more expensive hotel in Lima. Sitting on the outskirts of Cusco’s historical center, Awki’s Dream Hotel was about a 10-minute walk from the main square and had a lovely terrace to enjoy the views.

Altitude sickness is a common issue affecting visitors to Cusco. The town sits at an elevation of 3,300 m above sea level, making it hard to adjust upon arrivals. For those with shortness of breath, many hotels offer oxygen tanks for relief. Hotel lobbies also offer free cocoa tea as the plant is known to help withstand the high altitude. Cocoa plant is legal in Peru, and it is a main ingredient in different teas and treats, but it is illegal to transport outside Peruvian borders.

Cusco is a gorgeous town with a metro population of half a million, including the surrounding villages. It is an entry point into the Sacred Valley and onwards to the ruins of Machu Picchu. Descendants of the Incas continue to inhabit the region to this day and use the native Quechua language to communicate with one another, making it the most widely-used Indigenous language in Peru and a state-recognized official language.

Cusco’s history predates colonial settlers by centuries. Known as ‘The Capital of the Empire of the Sun’, It was built by the Incas as their imperial capital. The city plan structured to resemble a puma. From Cusco, the Incas governed vast territory of mountains, jungle and desert terrain. At its glory, this spread across what today constitutes part of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Chile.

When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, much of Cusco was destroyed and the colonizers built their own city on top. Still, remnants of the pre-Columbian city remain in the giant walls that form that foundations for the colonial houses on top. The result is a colorful eclectic mix of European and Indigenous influences.

These sturdy walls line much of the narrow and hilly alleyways of Cusco’s historic center. They are formed of giant stones stacked on top of one another. The geometric and architectural precision with which they were constructed continue to puzzle today’s scientists. The Incas did not use any cement to build the walls, and the blocks fit so perfectly that not even a fingernail can pass through. What’s even more impressive is how they remained untouched by the many earthquakes to have hit the area. The best example of the walls lies in the Sacsayhuamán archeological site, just on the outskirts of Cusco.

Before you embark on your sightseeing adventure, make a list of the places you’d like to visit. This helps you choose the best Cusco Pass, which sells for $25 for a validity of up to 3 days. There are three different passes depending on the places you want to visit, with one including sites in the Sacred Valley.

I might be one of the very few visitors to the region who opted out of a Machu Picchu. After doing extensive research, I realized that I simply did not have the time to visit. Tours to Macchu Picchu are best planned well in advance. The journey takes close to 8 hours from Cusco, and it is recommended to stay overnight in the town of Aguascalientes to make it a worthwhile trip. To avoid disappointment, make sure to contact tour operators before you land in Peru and Cusco to help you plan your trip to Machu Picchu.

Beyond Macchu Picchu, the city of Cusco and the Sacred Valley has endless attractions that kept me busy during my 3-night stay.

The picturesque historical center is an absolute pleasure to walk around. When in Cusco, you will see local ladies dressed in traditional costume that you can take pictures with. Many of them walk around with their own small alpaca pet, a smaller cousin of the llama and one of the three camelid species in the family. You can take a picture with them as a souvenir but take note that the ladies expect a tip. After all, that is how they make a living. The best part of this experience is that you actually get to hold and pet an alpaca. Contrary to what one might think, they are very docile, curious and friendly towards strangers.

Cusco overflows with tourists from around the globe. The main point of action is Cusco’s Plaza Mayor Square. This public square includes two impressive churches, the Cathedral of Cusco and Iglesia de la Companía de Jesus. The Spanish made sure to destroy traditional believes and convert the local population into Catholics early on. They did so by building ornate, elaborate and sturdy churches as the focal point of life in the public space. Cusco’s Plaza Mayor is one of the most beautiful and picture-worthy in all of Latin America and is visited by over 3 million tourists each year.

As the winter solstice or Inti Reymi was approaching, Plaza Mayor was full of festivities, live bands and fireworks at night. The Inca peoples held the sun in very high regard. Much of their ceremonies and festivals were held around the seasons and equinoxes. Inti Raymi, held in honour of the Incan god of the sun, is the second largest festival in South America after Rio de Janeiro’s carnival.

I kept plans for my first day in Cusco at a minimum, as I needed to adapt to the changes in altitude and the low temperatures at night. Most tourist points of interest are centered in and around the historical center, which is within a radius of a few kilometers and is easily accessible by foot. Considering that the streets are very old and narrow, it is easier to just walk everywhere instead of taking taxis. Walking alone is perfectly safe, but a data plan can help you access maps if you get lost in the maze-like side streets. It can get as cold as zero degrees Celsius at night during the winter months, so make sure to pack enough warm clothes.

In the evening, and after casually wandering the streets of the historical city, I was craving some western comfort food. Having been sampling Peruvian specialties for several days in a row, I needed something more conventional. I stopped at Paddy’s Irish Pub overlooking the main square for some fish and chips and some pints of amber ale. As you enter, there is a sign that proudly proclaims that Paddy’s is the highest Irish Pub in the entire world. Inside, the ambiance is fun with 80s rock music playing until just past midnight. This is a good place to meet backpackers and other solo travelers in Cusco. There are one or two nightclubs in Cusco, but don’t expect too much nightlife. Most bars are already closed by 1 AM.

I had booked a tour of the Sacred Valley for the following day and was picked up from my hotel lobby by 7 AM. I booked my tour online for less than $35 USD, and it included a full-day visit to three historical sites in the Sacred Valley. Entrance fees were not included, so it is important to have already purchased the Cusco visitor’s pass or pay separately for each site. Make sure to pack water and sunscreen.

The Sacred Valley, historically known as ‘The Valley of Yucay’. This area stretching between Cusco and Machu Picchu is rich in natural landscapes, with the Urubamba River flowing through its feelings and dissecting its tall mountainous peaks. The land is very fertile, and was the agricultural heartland of the Inca cities. Many natural and archaeological wonders are located here.

Our first stop was the Pisac Ruins, just over an hours’ drive from Cusco. The Pisac archeological park features over 500 ancient terraces that spread in an oval shape and sit over perfectly constructed stone walls. It was used a ceremonial location and a military zone with some stone buildings remaining intact to this day. The terraces were expertly cut right into mountains and it is here that you can get some of the best views of the Sacred Valley. We also ran into some alpacas grazing freely within the park. The alpacas with a background of mysterious and historical stone structures are a once-in-a-lifetime photo opp for amateur and professional photographers. Some adventurers prefer to come to the Pisac ruins on a self-guided tour and spend more time exploring. There are online instructions on how to get here solo by bus or car.

After a few hours, we arrived at Ollantaytambo, or what is known as ‘The Last Continuously Inhabited Inca Village’. For those like myself who did not get to visit Macchu Picchu, the Ollantamtambo are the next best thing. Like Pisac, Ollantaytambo’s ruins feature green terraces carved into mountains. The Incas were very resourceful in utilizing mountains for agricultural and military purposes. There are a few small temples at the top, with the structures remaining unaffected by time. The symmetrical terraces form a pyramid shape as you climb up. From here, you can see the full town below.

Ollantaytambo is a symbol of resistance. It was used as a fortress where the last Incas fought back against Spanish Pizarro’s army. As you leave the ruins, there is a crafts market with colorful ponchos against thee backdrop of majestic mountain terrain. The town is very popular among backpackers. There are also has many coffee shops and restaurants to take a break and take in the sights.

Towards the evening, we headed to the town of Chinchero. We were taken to a wool-making workshop to learn about the art of knitting using traditional techniques. It is a long-laborous process where some items take months to complete by hand. Natural dyes are used. We got to see a demonstration of how cactus bugs are squeezed, then lime juices is added to obtain a bright red color. Though the workshop is a tourist trap and prices for sweaters and knitwear are significantly higher than in Cusco, it was still an interesting experience to learn about the craft that sustains many of the women in the villages of the Sacred Valley. Pure alpaca wool is highly prized and expensive. Prices range significantly between boutiques and market stalls depending on location and quality.

Chinchero also has an archaeological park with a colonial palace overlooking Inca terraces. The climate of Chinchero is cooler, with snow-capped mountains surrounding it. It is known as ‘The Village of the Rainbow’ because rainbows a very common occurrence here during rainy season. I didn’t see any rainbows, but I did see a beautiful mist covering a mountain and splitting it perfectly in half. It is a very mystical experience when you are there.

By the time the tour ended and we arrived back in Cusco, it was already past 9 o’clock. Overall, the tour lasted 12 hours and we barely got to scratch the tip of the iceberg of all the things to do within the Sacred Valley.

I woke up early on my last day in Cusco to head to the local market, which opens at 6:30 AM. The San Pedro Market is popular with both locals and tourists. It is the epicenter of morning activity in the city. Here, fresh produce is sold and you can see the different varieties of fresh fruits and vegetables grown in the region. There are also food stalls to try Andean specialties such as a hot quinoa drink, a popular breakfast beverage with the texture of a pudding spiced with cinnamon. Peru is the world’s largest exporter of quinoa, and the protein-rich grain was grown by the Incas long before it became trendy among health-conscious consumers abroad.

At San Pedro Market, there is a bit of everything for everyone. If you are feeling adventurous, you can try Quy, or fried guinea pig. Llamas and alpacas are not only raised in the Andes for their wool, but also for their meat. You can try llama meat at several spots throughout Cusco. In the past decade, Cusco has been subject to gradual gentrification with chic boutiques, microbreweries and French-style cafes catering to a strictly foreign clientele. San Pedro Market is one of the last spots in the city that has remained relatively unaffected by this transformation and the pressure to present a more polished image to tourists.

If you’re on the lookout for wool items, rugs and souvenirs, the best place to go is the indoor Mercado Artesanal at the very end of Avenida de Sol. Prices here differ greatly from the shops around the central plaza. You can easily spend hours here and getting lost among the hundreds of small vendors for gifts to bring back home. If you’re not shy to bargain, you can have great finds at a discount.

I didn’t visit many museums in Cusco. The small city itself is an open-air museum. I still managed to stop at an old convent that has been turned into a museum. The Santa Catalina de Siena Monastery is dedicated to the nuns who devoted their lives to their mission. The museum inside is small and gloomy, with a collection of religious art from colonial times. For lovers of dark tourism, this museum carries a sense of dread as you make your way through dimly-lit corridors. Life-sized statues of nuns depict what daily life was like for the nuns inside the walls of the monastery.

As night time approaches, the best place to catch views of sunset over the historic center is at the Limbus Restobar. Getting all the way up there is an exercise and reservations are sometimes needed. However, once at the top, you are rewarded with an immersive view. A sea of red terracotta rooftops lies below that turns into a spectacle of lights after sundown. The food here is also excellent, and I really enjoyed the fish brought in straight from the Urubamba river. Inti Raymi celebrations were in full swing at Plaza Mayor, with an impressive fireworks show on my last night there.

A visit to Peru’s Andean region requires a minimum of 7-8 days in order to see everything. This could include Machu Picchu, Lake Titikaca on the border with Bolivia and other sites within the Sacred Valley such as the Maras salt terraces and rainbow mountain, a mountain peak of 7 different colors that was only discovered in the past decade when the ice it was covered in melted. Today, it is one of the busiest tourist attractions in the sacred valley. Some can be done in a day trip, while others require overnight stays. It is important to do research and plan ahead. If your next stop is Bolivia, as is the case with some backpackers that I met, you can take an 8-hour bus to the city of Puno on the edge of Lake Titikaka, spend a night with a local family on one of the floating straw islands, and continue onwards to Bolivia’s capital La Paz from there.

From Cusco, I took a flight back to Lima for less than a full day before embarking on my next adventure in Brazil.

Peru is a destination with rich history and biodiversity, a cuisine that is unparalleled in the region, and outstanding tourist infrastructure – all at very reasonable prices. It is a safe, family friendly destinations that also offers lots to backpackers and solo travelers. Peru packs lots of variety in one medium sized country and it would take weeks, if not months, to discover all of it. I have already made a list of other places I would like to visit the next time that I find myself in Peru.

Peru Pros:

-Perfect for history buffs

-Good weather year-round

-Foodie’s paradise

-Affordable

-Suitable for all types of tourists

-Relatively English-friendly

Peru Cons:

-Some destinations require a level of physical fitness

-Occasional altitude sickness in the mountains

-Spanish is needed outside touristy zones