Southeast Asia Family Trip: Cambodia, Singapore and Malaysia
For my dad’s 62nd birthday in February, 2019, my mom and I decided to treat him to a trip around Southeast Asia, with Kuala Lumpur Malaysia as our base and hub for regional flights.
We flew into Kula Lumpur via Qatar Airways. We had previously visited Kuala Lumpur (or KL) as a family to celebrate the arrival of the year 2000, our first big trip to Asia. Kuala Lumpur is a great port of entry if you want to hop onto other destinations in the region. Flights outside KL airport to destinations in Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia and other parts of Southeast Asia are very frequent.
A Fantastic Snorkeling Spot in Langkawi
We had a very busy itinerary to cram into 2 weeks and split our Southeast Asia flights as follows:
-2 nights in Kuala Lumpur
-4 nights in Langkawi (via Air Asia)
-4 nights in Siem Reap (Via Air Asia with a brief stop in KL)
-Return to Kuala Lumpur for 3 nights via Air Asia (*I also took a 2-night detour by myself to Singapore, which was a very quick flight from Kuala Lumpur)
Fly back out with Qatar Airways
Kuala Lumpur: Shopping and Dining Galore
Kuala Lumpur might not offer the plethora of cultural activities and nightlife of Bangkok, but it does make up for it with skyscrapers, shopping malls and dining options. As a predominately Muslim country with a majority Malay population, there are also some mosques or masjids that tourist can visit. Many of them are surrounded by elegant and leafy squares to take refuge from the equatorial sun.
Malaysia’s culture is very much centered on Islam, and it is obvious in the way people dress, the obscurity of a local bar and club culture and the higher-than-normal prices for alcoholic drinks. There are also sizeable communities of ethnic Chinese Buddhists (especially in KL and the island of Penang) and a small Hindu community as well. In fact, one of KL’s most visited landmarks is a Hindu Temple inside the limestone Batu Caves, dedicated to the god of war Murugan. This site is perhaps the most famous Hindu temple outside of India. We didn’t visit the Batu Caves on this trip, but have fond memories of having climbed the narrow stairs to reach the colorful temple on our previous visit. Riding through the city, you will surely encounter the Petronas Twin Towers, a duo that once held the title of ‘Tallest Office Building in the World’.
Kuala Lumpur’s Skyline with a View of the Petronas Towers
After a long flight, we arrived at our hotel and made plans to go shopping the next day. We wanted to keep our itinerary in Malaysia open and leisurely, and to keep the temple visits to Cambodia. We had booked our KL stay at the luxurious Majestic Hotel, part of the Autograph Collection chain of hotels. It is a beautiful English colonial style hotel housed in an elegant white building with an outdoor swimming pool, a barbershop and spa, a tailor shop and even an elegant lounge that only screens classic cinema. Our stay at The Majestic was like stepping back in time to an era of The British Empire at its glory.
Traditional Malay Cuisine
Our first stop was Central Market, a bazaar style covered market that has been open since the late 19th century. it was a It is the place to find a souvenir to bring home from Malaysia. There are many small shops selling authentic handicrafts such as Wayang theater puppets, tribal masks, traditional fabrics and sarongs and wooden crafts. There is also a food court upstairs where visitors can have authentic Malay cuisine. The Nasi Lemak is one authentically Malaysian dish where the rice is cooked in coconut milk and is accompanied by eggs and chicken on a banana leaf. There are vegetarian options too. Fried tempeh is also a popular protein made from fermented soybean and has a chewy, meat like consistency.
The weather in Malaysia is very hot, so make sure to keep hydrated with water or juice from all the exotic fruits that grow in the region. My favorite is mango. While it may be hot, it also does rain quite often in KL and tropical rains can be very strong. Make sure to have an umbrella and slicker on hand. Luckily, there are lots of places to keep dry in Kuala Lumpur, from the indoor Central Market to all the malls that the city is famous for.
For international brands and high-end shopping look no further than Pavillion Mall. This glitzy complex houses hundreds of shops from fast fashion and sportswear to exclusive European and Asian designer labels. There are also plenty of restaurants and cuisines to choose from, and the food in Malaysia is of the best quality. Our visit to Southeast Asia coincided with the Lunar new Year (aka Chinese New Year), and the displays throughout Pavillion Mall were very creative and joyful. You can continue to the adjacent Starhill Gallery, an architectural gem that is also home to some of the world’s most exclusive brands, and all the way down Bukit Bintang Street and its surrounding area, KL’s flashy shopping district with its trendy shops and large neon signs.
If you are a budget traveler, you must head to Chinatown or Jalan Petaling. You will be haggled by street vendors to buy everything from phone cases to watches and knockoff wallets and bags. The street is converted into a night market in the evening, and there are plenty of affordable food and accommodation options in the area. Another great spot for street food in the evening is Jalan Alor, with hundreds of street vendors and budget eateries offering outdoor seating to watch the scores of locals and tourists taming their midnight cravings. It’s as though the whole city congregates on this street as their preferred evening pastime.
Langkawi: Staying on Our Own Island
Famous for its pristine beaches, Langkawi is Malaysia’s most popular resort. It is an archipelago made up of the main island (or Pulau Langkawi), and some 100 smaller islands in the Andaman Sea. It’s also a duty-free zone, which means that alcoholic beverages here are much more accessible than the mainland, and at much better prices.
We took a short Air Asia flight to Langkawi, where a small shuttle van from our hotel was expecting us (pre-booked at the hotel). The van drove for about 20 minutes and eventually stopped at Port Cenang. From there, we took the designated hotel speedboat to Rebak island, or more specifically the Rebak Island Resort and Marina. The property grounds constitute the whole small island, complete with its own port for luxury yachts and boats, a tranquil beach and la small rainforest surrounding the property. It is a secluded resort that offers an ideal getaway for those hoping to escape the crowds and connect with nature for a few days; literally on their own private island.
Our bungalow-style rooms (at under $150 per night) were beautifully decorated with high-quality wood interiors, a balcony overlooking the seashore, a giant bathroom with a wardrobe and large vanity mirrors, and a bathtub area with a window that looks out directly towards the sea. Our stay came with breakfast and free shuttles to and from the mainland (the speedboat left every hour until about 8 PM. If we wanted to stay out later, then we would have had to arrange for our own speedboat ride back to the hotel).
Palm Trees and Frangipani Flowers on Rebak Island
Considering that Langkawi is not particularly famous for its nightlife, we kept our ventures outside Rebak island limited to daytime hours. There is a rotating night market, though, which is held at different locations every day of the week. However, we did not get to experience it.
Langkawi is a sleepy resort area, it does not offer a vast list of cultural and sightseeing activities and is usually visited for its nature. It’s a place to relax and enjoy the beach. We mostly stayed right at our little island. Prices for meals and drinks on our island were also on the costly side since it can only be reached from the mainland by boat.
We did leave Rebak island on two separate day trips.
The 7 Wells Waterfalls during Dry Season
Our first day trip was to the 7 Wells or Telga Tujuh Waterfalls. We booked private transportation for the day to visit the waterfalls that are famous for their natural pools on top , where you can actually bathe. However, it was dry season and we realized that there was not much water to make the trip all the way up to the top worthwhile, it was a really hot day and the climb up was exhausting. The monkeys on the stairways were also very cheeky and kept trying to grab our belongings. The tour guide also took us to a glass blowing museum and a batik museum nearby. They have beautiful and unique pieces if you want to bring an authentic gift to friends or family back home.
On another day trip outside Rebak island, I booked a snorkeling tour. I was up very early in the morning and got picked up by the tour company who made several stops to pick up other guests before we were put on a big boat to Palau Payar Marine Park. The park is absolutely gorgeous, with a white sandy beach and pristine turquoise water. We were given snorkeling equipment, and I got to see fish of different sizes and colors: shades of blue, pink and yellow. Some were very close to the shore as well, and swam right next to us. The tour itself was really exhausting since we made several stops before reaching the marine park, but considering the beauty of marine life in the area, which I got to capture on camera, I would highly recommend a snorkeling activity at Palau Payar Marine Park when in Langkawi.
The Clearest Shades of Blue
On our previous trip to Malaysia, we also visited Penang Island. It is a majority-Chinese island in Malaysia and boasts a beautiful historic center in its main city, Georgetown, as well as being famous for its cuisine, beaches and for having more of a nightlife than other destinations in Malaysia. If you have extra time to spare while in Malaysia, Penang should definitely be on our list.
Malaysia Pros:
Lots of shopping and dining options
Very convenient for low-cost trips around the region (several airlines operate out of KL airport)
English is widely spoken
Malaysia Cons:
More on the socially conservative side
Cambodia: Siem Reap’s Ancient Kingdom
We took Air Asia again with Kuala Lumpur and arrived at the Siem Reap International Airport. From there, we had our shuttle bus waiting to take us to the Lotus Blanc Resort, where we would be staying for the next 4 nights. This chic and elegantly designed hotel cost less than $50 per night. It is located about a 5 minute drive to the city center’s pub street, where most of Siem Reap’s evening activity takes place. The service was great and there is a restaurant and mid-sized pool to relax and escape the scorching heat of Cambodia’s heartland.
I had previously been to Siem Reap solo as part of another Southeast Asia trip (*link here), but could not turn down the opportunity to go once again.
Most of our activities consisted of visiting the temples of Angkor (*more detailed description here). We purchased a 3-day pass.
At night, we would walk along pub street for food and drinks. Seim Reap is a very affordable destination, and you can have a glass of the local Angkor beer for as little as a dollar. Bars on Pub Street stay open very late at night.
For traditional dishes, I would recommend Khmer Kitchen restaurant, which is right on the edge of Pub Street. It is a famous 2-story restaurant that provides large portions at very good prices. Their papaya salad and fish amok are delicious. For a fine dining you can also check out Malis. The restaurant interior is gorgeous decorated and their kampot crab fried rice is a feast to the eyes (and mouth).
We also spent a few evenings at the local night market to pick up souvenirs and gifts for family back home. Here you can find Buddha statues of all sizes and materials, silk shawls , bamboo goods and cotton t-shirts for as a few dollars.
Siem Reap has many spas to choose from but not offer the best service. You will be haggled for massages as you along the street. There is a wide range of prices, but it is worthwhile to pay a little bit extra for better service and a relaxing environment. The reputable Bodia Spa offers a variety of treatments by professional masseurs in a clean and higher end setting, and their prices are in the mid-range compared to hotel spas. If you are a spa enthusiast, make sure to check out the Senteurs d’Angkor shop for all kinds of natural remedies and aromatherapy bath products as high-quality gifts to bring home. Their lemongrass scented soaps and cologne sprays are made from natural ingredients and smell absolutely divine.
Siem Reap, Cambodia Pros:
Siem Reap is paradise for history buffs
Gorgeous temples and authentic Khmer culture
Very affordable and mostly safe
Siem Reap, Cambodia Cons:
Not too many, but be wary of tourist scams
Singapore: A Gleaming International Metropolis
We arrived back to Kuala Lumpur from Siem Reap, but I had one last stop to make to make my trip complete. I left my parents in Kuala Lumpur and took another Air Asia flight to Singapore, where I would stay for 2 nights.
The flight was about 50 minutes in total. I arrived at the world-famous Changi airport, famous for its gardens and art galleries. From Changi, I took a City Shuttle bus to my hotel. City Shuttle buses only cost $10S or $8 US, and are shared buses that will take you from the airport to almost any point within Singapore.
Tall Skyscrapers Juxtaposed with Traditional Shophouses in Chinatown
I stayed at the 1929 Hotel right next to Chinatown. The hotel itself was very basic with only one café bar in the lobby, and my room was quite small. Still, it cost less than 80 dollars, which is very rare for Singapore and was in a prime location. Hotel rates (as with pretty much everything) in Singapore are much costlier than anywhere else in Southeast Asia, or the world.
However, for those on a budget, there are still some options to enjoy Singapore without breaking the bank. Hawker stall centers, kind of like food courts, offer street food at affordable local dishes across many parts of the city, and they come are thoroughly inspected and graded by health agencies. As you have already heard or seen in guidebooks and documentaries, Singapore ranks very high on the cleanliness index. The streets, cafes and shopping areas here are absolutely spotless.
Singapore is a modern city-state with numerous skyscrapers and shopping malls. It is a global banking and financial center that perfectly blends its gleaming skyline with its well-preserved heritage districts. It is several steps above Kuala Lumpur in terms of glitzy shopping malls, dining and entertainment and mega skyscrapers, but that also comes with a hefty price tag as well. It is for this reason that most visitors from outside the region come to Singapore while on a layover. The prices here are also in very stark contrast to Cambodia, where I had been just hours prior.
Even if you are not staying in Singapore overnight, it is absolutely a must to take the double decker sightseeing bus. You can see the gorgeous city from above, then hop on and off at various sites of interest. Those include the National Museum of Singapore, which is housed in an elegant heritage building that document how Singapore evolved from a small fishing town to a highly developed metropolis that is the envy of most nations. In the museum, there is a section that captures how Singaporeans coped with daily life under Japanese occupation during WW2. This exhibition hall also showcases impressive posters from the era, which left an impression me.
Singapore is kind of a microcosm of the overall region. Its population is made up of ethnic Malays, who share much of their culture with neighboring Malaysia and Indonesia, as well as Chinese descendants and an Indian (mostly Tamil) minority. Despite their differences in heritage, Singapore locals have worked hand-in-hand for the past two generations to build an innovative and prosperous nation. When taking the hop-on hop-off bus across Singapore, make sure to stop at Little India. This district packs tons of color into a few small city blocks, and you can visit Hindu temples and vibrant Sari and Jewelry shops.
The next destination on your itinerary should be Kampong Glam, or Arab Street. This district has been the center of Muslim culture in Singapore since the days of British Colonial rule. The Sultan Mosque, with its gold cupula, overlooks the street full of halal restaurants and shisha lounges as well as souvenir shops selling Singapore and Arabesque paraphernalia. The district also includes Haji Lane, a narrow alleyway decorated beautiful street art and murals, with plenty of cozy cafes and indie clothing stores luring visitors in.
When in Singapore, one cannot miss Chinatown. Apart from the modern high-rises and financial district, this historical area downtown is the epicenter of Singapore’s cultural and culinary scene, with its own night market and lots of trendy bars to indulge in a Singapore Sling. Chinatown is famous for its rows of shophouses which have been restored and are well kept to this day. There are no high-rises here, and it is a welcome change for those hoping to escape the other, more futuristic side that Singapore is famous for. Make sure to check out the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, with its ornately decorated interior, you are reminded that Singapore is not just five-star hotels and skyscrapers, but is also home to customs and tradition that have lived here for generations.
Singapore is very close to the equator. The weather here is really hot. To escape the heat, locals and tourists flock to Marina Bay Sands (or MBS), a luxury hotel made up of three towers that are connected at the top. The rooftop of MBS has an infinity pool and overlooks Singapore’s main attractions, including the Singapore Flyer Ferris wheel. Also within walking distance is a jewel of architecture on a global scale, Gardens by the Bay. This hanging garden is comprised of giant tree-shaped structures full of lush vegetation, complete with its own ‘cloud forest’ to escape the sun and marvel at how science, nature and architecture combine to create a truly memorable experience. When in Singapore, you must not miss Gardens by the Bay.
Since I only had two days in Singapore, I didn’t get to experience all that it has to offer. Locals also recommended for me to visit Sentosa Island, which, in itself offers many sightseeing and entertainment options and is where local residents go on weekends for a relaxing time away from the city.
A Sea of Shiny Skyscrapers
I returned to Kuala Lumpur from thereon and wrapped a very memorable trip to Southeast Asia.
Singapore Pros:
Lots of 5-star leisure activities
Very clean
Very safe and polite locals
English is an official language
Singapore Cons:
Can be cost prohibitive
Very hot
