Italy: Landscapes, Cultures and Gastronomy
I have been to Italy 3 times. Once with my mom and dad back when I was 9 (in 1996), when we visited Rome, Florence and Venice. More recently, it was for wedding in the Tuscan countryside. I flew into Rome then took the train to Florence for the next 2 nights. This was back in 2019.
This time, my sister was visiting her daughter, who studies in Italy for the Christmas and New Year holidays. My mom and dad were joining her, so I decided to meet them there for a festive family reunion.
The cities we visited were Milan, Como, Rome and a day trip to Naples.
I had been spending a week in Spain prior to departing to Italy.
Picturesque Bellagio
Como: The Italian Alps
Just in time for Christmas, I flew from Seville to Milan with Ryan Air. I landed in Bergamo airport, which is a bit far from the actual city of Milan. Additionally, I was meeting my family in the town of Como, so the journey involved bus and train changes to finally arrive at the Como San Giovanni train station. From there, it was a five-minute walk to the B&B Hotel Como where my family had been staying. The hotel itself is basic, as one would expect from the B&B chain, but it is very conveniently located close to the train station and about a 7-minute walk to the Lake Como ferry terminal and the staff were very friendly. Since I had arrived in the early evening, I stayed indoors with family so that we could spend time together and plan our outing for the next day.
A Scenic Ferry Ride
The next morning, December 24th, we had coffee in the hotel and got ready for our first full day sightseeing together. We headed to the ferry terminal to book our ride to Bellagio (about 45 minutes from Como). While waiting for the ferry at the promenade in Como, we made a stop at the Christmas market and sampled a variety of pastries, artisanal cheeses, mulled wine and local delicacies. Lake Como is up in the alps, so it does get cold in wintertime. The mullet wine added much needed warmth and holiday glee.
A one-way adult ticket on the ferry from Como to Bellagio costs approximately 15 Euros, so if you are a family of 5 like we were, make sure to budget for it. While on the ferry, we were treated to breathtaking views of the lake, the shoreline villas and the afternoon sun reflecting on the snowcapped mountains. Bellagio, and Lake Como in general, have been used as a setting for numerous films and it is a popular magnet for celebrities and the wealthy. This region of Northern Italy stands in stark contrast to its neighbors in the south, where the atmosphere is more casual and temperamental. The culture here is much more elite and reserved. In some ways, it feels more like say, Switzerland than one would typically picture Italy to be like.
Hiking up the Steep Hill in Bellagio
Bellagio not a big town. It’s a village connected by many parallel, cobblestone staircase streets and alleyways, each offering unique views and amazing angles to shoot from. While all the steps are intimidating at first, it is truly rewarding once you reach the top. There are numerous artisanal shops to browse, selling everything from leather goods to glass ornaments, novelty wines and jewelry. Bellagio is also famous for its silk craftsmanship, as the region of Como has long been a world-class center for silk manufacturing. Bellagio is the perfect place to buy silk scarves or neckties as a gift, and there are several shops that sell premium silk accessories starting from about 50 Euros onwards.
Risotto is a Local Specialty in Northern Italy
Despite being a major tourist hub, shops and restaurants do close for breaktime or lunch (Usually from about 1 PM to 3 PM, depending on the business). Do take that into account and plan your meals accordingly. We started getting hungry shortly after 2 PM but struggled to find a restaurant that was open. We ended up having late lunch at the Antico Pozzo restaurant. They offer generous portions. We sat on a heated patio overlooking a quaint alleyway and ordered fish risotto with fish right from Lake Como, different varieties of pizza and pasta. Italian food often differs by region. Lomabardi and Northern Italy are famous for warm risotto, freshwater fish and gnocchi, and the food served at the restaurant exceeded all expectations.
Plaza de la Chiessa has Basilica de San Giacomo, Bellagio’s main church. It is a gorgeous medieval style church within an imposing tower that dates back one thousand years or since the 11th century. Inside the church, there are many beautiful altars and one can see different interior styles and icons from the earlier days of Christianity.
While some visitors choose to stay overnight, you can explore most of the town in a few hours and catch the ferry back to the city of Como.
While awaiting the Ferry back to Como city, we took a walk along Bellagio’s famous promenade. The views from the lake where even better as the sun was setting and the sky painted the water hues of pink.
Many tourists also do the nearby lake towns of Melagio and Varena, but we decided to stop at Bellagio. After all, it was Christmas eve so we worried that we might have less options to return to Como in the evening. Plus, it was colder than expected, having spent much of the day outdoors in the cool December air. While some visitors choose to stay overnight, you can explore most of the town in a few hours and catch the ferry back to the city of Como. There are also direct buses and a train from Milan to the lake (stopping in Varenna), but we thought it would make for a better trip to spend two nights by the lake and in the mountains for a more memorable Christmas vacation.
Pink Sunset over Lake Como
The city of Como itself is often overlooked by tourists who use it as base to explore the smaller lake villages. It may not offer much in terms of tourist attractions, but it does have a beautiful historic town with its own Gothic Cathedral and many pedestrian-only streets, so it was great to walk along and get a Christmas feel. Many shops had bright Christmas displays, and it was beautifully lit at night. It was a Christmas Eve we won’t forget anytime soon.
Milan: Italy’s Industrial and Commercial Hub
Our vacation in Como had ended, so we got ready for our next step in our Italy adventure: Milan, Italy’s largest city and commercial hub. In the morning we took the Trenitalia train from Como San Giovanni to Milan’s central station (approximately 45 minutes).
The Milan Cathedral is Italy’s Largest Church Outside the Vatican
Milan is a mostly industrial city and does not have too many landmarks. It is not as touristy as Venice and Rome, for example. But it is very famous for being a fashion capital as well as business center, so local and international visitors come for more specific purposes.
Milan’s central station is Europe’s biggest in terms of passenger volume. The station itself is beautiful to walk through with its mix of modernist and art deco style and white marbles tiles.
A Seafood Linguine in Red Sauce
We booked our 2-night stay at the Glam Hotel Milano, conveniently located right across the train station. The rooms were spacious and comfortable with high-quality service, finishing and amenities. The only downside to the hotel is that despite its convenience, the area isn’t very safe at night. We witnessed a purse snatching incident right outside the hotel door. It is also recommended to stay away from the area at night, so you may want to book somewhere else to have the freedom to walk alone at night. Based on what I researched online, the overall security situation in Milan’s central areas are not ideal at night, and many residents and visitors complain about thefts.
I also happened to get sick with a heavy cold while in Milano, so I had to stay a large portion of my stay there indoors. However, I did manage to go to the central square that houses the elegant Milan Duomo, one of the largest gothic cathedrals in the world and the adjacent Milan Galleria. The Milan Galleria is one of the earliest covered shopping malls in the world. It was built all the way back in the second half of the 19th century and is an enduring testament of Milan’s grandeur as a key city in Europe’s industrial age, and a word center of commerce, arts and culture, architectural design and fashion. There was a sea of crowds inside the Galleria, so brace yourself for a large number of people and keep an eye on your belongings. My niece also took me to the nearby Starbucks Reserve Roastery, which has some of the most beautiful displays of coffee and coffee roastery I have seen. After queuing for 20 minutes, we finally had our drinks.
Rome: The Eternal City
All roads lead to Rome. For our next destination on our Italy journey, we took the Trenitalia southward again for 3 hours to reach Rome Termini Station. From there, it was a 15-minute taxi ride to the Movie Movie hotel in the Cinecitta district, where we had booked our hotel for the next 5 nights. The rooms at Movie Movie are decorated in a cinematic style as the hotel is in the heart of Rome’s film district. You can take a guided tour of the nearby studios where Italy’s most famous productions have been made.
Rome, the Capital of Italy, is One of the Oldest Continuously Inhabited Cities in Europe
Cinecitta is a bit far from the city center. Still, the area has a cozy and neighborly feel and caters mostly to local residents. The people at the hotel and nearby shops were very friendly and welcoming, and the rooms were very large and comfortable. If you are looking for a place that is far from the crowds, noise and tourist traps, then consider staying here. The city is well connected by bus and Metro lines, so most sites of interest are easily acceptable.
There are Countless Varieties of Pasta in Italy
Rome, the capital of Italy, is accredited as the birthplace of Western Civilization. For history and culture enthusiasts, there is no shortage of things to do. Having already been to Rome twice and being familiar with many of its landmarks, I did not go overboard with sightseeing and kept my itinerary open. I also spent a considerable amount of time in the neighborhood where the hotel was located for daily walks. There are many good clothing and accessories stories, a large shopping mall and plenty of restaurants in Cinecitta. It is also worth checking out the Castello Romano shopping complex (located about a 20-minute taxi ride outside Rome) for Italian designer goods at outlet prices.
For museum lovers, there are over 30 to choose from, ranging from archeological relics to religious art, renaissance paintings and sculptures from the most recognizable names such as Michelangelo and Leonardo Da Vinci. In fact, the whole city feels like an open-air museum. You can also visit the Vatican, the smallest sovereign country in the world, which is located within the city of Rome and is the epicenter of Roman Catholic culture around the world. Describing Rome in text and pictures does not do it justice, it has to be experienced firsthand. Make sure to book your tickets for the Vatican and Rome’s museums well in advance as they are notorious for their long lineups.
A lot of the activity is also located around the gorgeous Trevi Fountain and the Nearby Plaza Navona, with elegant sidewalk cafes have coffee or an aperitivo to people watch and simply absorb the feeling of being in one of the world’s most beautiful cities.
Rome’s Layers upon Layers of Civilization
On the eve of the New Year, we took a memorable walk around the Coliseum and ancient city to say goodbye to 2022.
Naples: A Southern Italian Experience
While in Rome, we took a day trip to discover the heart of Italy’s south, the busy and boisterous city of Naples. We took a bus from Rome’s Tiburtina bus station for about 2 hours until we got there.
Hanging Laundry on Balconies and Windowsills is a Very Neapolitan Habit
Naples is famous for its cuisine, which has been had a global footprint, its casual and very ‘stereotypically Italian’ charm and its once notorious reputation for crime and urban neglect. Things have considerably changed since the days when the Mafia controlled the city, and visitors are now welcome to discover this quintessentially Italian city. Still, it is not like many places you’ll get to visit in Western Europe and sits in very stark contrast to the cities to the north.
The Mediterranean port city of Naples is the birthplace of pizza. One must keep in mind that the true Napoletana pizza is different and much simpler than the countless varieties available abroad. There are only 2 varieties that are true to pizza’s Neapolitan history: the pizza Marinara with dough and tomato sauce, and the Margarita, with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and fresh basil on dough. The focus here is on the quality of the dough and key ingredients, without having to add too many toppings.
Naples has been Attracting Increasing Numbers of Tourists
From the Naples bus station, we made it a point to have pizza at the nearest stop. We chose a small family-style restaurant that was popular with tourists and locals alike where we had delicious pizza and local mixed seafood and fried sardines fresh from the Mediterranean Sea (eaten whole like fried chips with a dash of lemon juice). As we were walking at through the city, we saw scores of tourists queuing at Antica Pizzeria de Michele, one of the oldest pizzerias still in operation. However, we did not join the queue as we still had lots of places to stop by.
The narrow alleyways of Naples epitomize the type of spontaneous living associated with Southern Italy. To this day, neighbors communicate with one from their balconies and congregate on their front steps as wet laundry hangs from windowsills. It is as though time stood still in these parts of Naples. It is exactly what draws scores of tourists in: the chance to experience an authentic part of Italy like nowhere else. Some popular alleys to check out are the Maradona alley, with a shrine to the football star and shops selling paraphernalia branded with his name and portrait and the Christmas alley, or Via San Gregorio Armeno, with countless shops selling nativity statues of all sizes. Both places were packed with tourists, and it took what felt like a lifetime to walk a few meters. After all, maybe it is this slight feeling of claustrophobia and discomfort that adds to the Neapolitan experience. Those used to the concept of personal space may not adapt so well. The locals here are known to be loud and boisterous, unlike their neighbors to the north, so don’t be offended if someone comes to close or raises their voices when speaking to you. It is done with friendly intentions.
Naples is Southern Italy’s Largest City
Naples has also been an important commercial and cultural city for centuries, and it offers no shortage of cultural sites and activities. We visited the Naples Cathedral, a spacious church with vivid iconography that mixes Roman and early Christian art. We also spent a few hours at the Naples Archeological Museum, which beat out expectations. The museum houses important relics from Nearby Pompeii and gives visitors a glimpse of the opulence of the nearby town before it was destroyed by a volcano eruption. I had hoped to include both, Naples and Pompeii in one day trip from Rome, but both need time and planning. I would recommend staying overnight in Naples in order to explore Pompeii and the picturesque Amalfi coast (both located within about an hour from the city of Naples).
We also got to take the metro in Naples, was very modern, clean and efficient. Our visit to Naples had come to an end, and we got to sample its past, present and future all in one day. An overnight stay is recommended for a deeper immersion in this unique and very Italian city. In the evening, we boarded the bus back to Rome and went straight to bed upon arriving at the hotel.
Another day trip suggestion from Rome that I would recommend is Florence (about 90 minutes by train). This city in the region of Tuscany a must-visit for anyone in Italy on their first trip. Florence is known as the city of the Renaissance and has produced art legends such as Michelangelo, Boticelli and Leonardo Da Vinci with many art galleries and museums to marvel at. The Duomo of Florence is Italy’s and perhaps Europe’s most beautiful building, and its tower offers majestic views of this city of culture and enlightenment. Tuscany is also famous for its wines, its leather and many craft perfume shops. It is relatively small in size, giving it a town-within-a-city charm and many of its landmarks are within walking distance from one another. Florence also has a very pleasant climate and is very safe and elegant. Do visit Florence and be enlightened!
The Countryside in Tuscany, One of Italy’s Winegrowing Regions
