Berlin, the capital of Germany, is a city that I spent a whole season in. When I left Dubai in 2019, I was looking for a polar opposite city to live in for some time. Berlin was seemed like a perfect solution: I had been there before and liked it enough, it was liberal and creative, open to foreigners and English-friendly. At the time, I was under the age of 35 and qualified for the Youth Mobility Scheme, also known as a the ‘Working Holiday’ visa. This bilateral agreement that Canada has with over 30 countries meant that I could stay in Germany for up to a full year with the possibility of working without having to rely on an employer to sponsor my work visa. I contacted Nomaden Berlin, a service specializing in helping bring young people and talent to Germany, and they helped me with the relocation process. Through Nomaden Berlin’s social activities, I made some great friends along the way.

A year before making the move to Berlin, I visited the city on a short trip to celebrate New Year’s Eve. It was a festive time and what I loved the most were the Christmas markets. I stayed in the western part of the city in the Wilmersdorf area. The nearby Kurfürstendamm Christmas market, surrounding the Kaiser Welhelm Memorial Church, was full of joyous spirit. It is where I spent most of my time in Berlin, enjoying mulled wine and the city’s signature Currywurst sausages. On New Year’s Eve, it seemed like the whole city was out celebrating to the sound of loud fireworks. At that point, I felt that I had to come back to live to Berlin someday. Within a year, I was back with the intention of full-on moving there.

Owing to the city’s partition during the Cold War years, there are still 2 international airports in Berlin until as recently as 2020 – with one in the east and one in the west. Both airports were notorious for being some of Germany’s worst. Now, Berlin has one primary international airport with a planned capacity of 58 million annual passengers. It is still eclipsed by Frankfurt’s airport, which is also where the national carrier Lufthanza is based. From here, you can reach the city by bus or taxi.

Berlin is a mecca for lovers of modern history. It was at the epicenter of two global events that marked the 20th century: World War 2 and the Cold War. Their legacy lives on in the city’s architecture, social composition and political landscape. To this day, the West differs significantly from the east. The buildings look different, so is the nightlife and overall aura on both ends. The West is more residential and traditionally ‘elegant’ in contrast to the hip and grungy east that draws younger people from around the world. Apart from being a center of counterculture, fashion, Techno music and artistic expression, Berlin is also a hub for tech startups and science.

Education is entirely free in Germany, and Berlin is a highly desirable place for students. It is also very affordable. Despite its size, Berliners pay low rents and restaurants and supermarkets here typically cost much less than anywhere else in Northern Europe. When I was there in 2019, you could buy a few cans of beer for less than a euro at Aldi or Liddle, a bottle of wine could cost less than 2 Euros and a it was entirely possible to have a restaurant meal for under 8 euros. Like anywhere else in the world, though, prices have risen due to inflation and global conflicts.

Though German reunification happened 4 decades ago, Berlin still lags behind Germany’s southern and western regions in economic development. Berlin is a capital city with over 5 million people. Still, the locals are not competitive and have a relaxed approach to work and enjoying life. A former mayor referred to Berlin as ‘Poor but Sexy’, and this stigma has stuck with Berlin and its inhabitants.

Unlike most cities, Berlin doesn’t quite have a downtown core. The city is very spread out, and each area has its own central area. Anything within the ring on the U-Bahn metro system is considered central. The area of Mitte is considered to be the city center and literally means ‘middle’ in German. Many of the city’s embassies and historical landmarks are located here, including the Reichstag, TV tower, Holocaust memorial and Tiergarten urban park. The river spree crosses Berlin from north to south, dissecting at the heart of Mitte.

The borders of modern-day Germany changed over the centuries. During the 18th century, Berlin was part of the Prussian empire, with the kingdoms of Saxony and Bavaria to the south. The Pariser Platz section of the Brandenburg gate was erected in 1788 by Prussian King Frederick II as a symbol of peace and to solidify Berlin’s position as the capital of his empire. A block to the north is the Reichstag building, which houses Germany’s parliament representatives. Its iconic glass dome features an exhibit where visitors can stroll with an audio guide to learn about the country’s modern history and catch some of the best views of Mitte from above.

The western part of Mitte is comprised of the Charlottenburg neighborhood. Here you will find many of the higher-end boutiques, bistros with international food and cocktail bars. Further west, the English-speaking community with homesickness congregates at Postdamer Platz. Here you will find a world-class cinema with English bookshops and American chain restaurants. Postdamer Platz is a futuristic glass and neon plaza that adds a futuristic and cosmopolitan touch to a city that is otherwise devoid of megamalls and skyscrapers.

To the east, Alexanderplatz is a showpiece of Soviet-style architecture. The large plaza’s TV tower was constructed in the 1960s as a symbol of Communist East Germany’s might. Today, it is Berlin’s busiest public square. Nearby, the DDR museum allows visitors to step back in time to when this part of the city was under Soviet influence. There are some quirky and fun interactive displays, and a real-life replica of an East German apartment during communism. For those with nostalgia for communism, there’s also the Stasi Museum. While much darker in theme than the DDR museum, the Stasi Museum is housed in a massive concrete building where the DDR’s headquarters were based. Inside, visitors can learn about the techniques and tools used by the secret police to pursue and interrogate regime opponents.

The Berlin Wall is undoubtedly the city’s most famous landmark. The Eastside Gallery is a large open-air gallery with murals adorning the remaining part of the wall, or what wasn’t demolished during Germany’s reunification in 1988. As of 1990, over one hundred international artists participated in transforming the wall with their murals and street art. Sadly, some have suffered weather damage and vandalism. The Eastside Gallery draws thousands of visitors each day and is Berlin’s most Instagrammable spot – especially the Fraternal Kiss mural depicting USSR’s Brezhnev and DDR’s Erich Honecker.

Before the Cold War, Berlin witnessed countless atrocities committed during the reign of the Third Reich, leading up to World War 2. The city’s dark past is evident on many street corners, and memorials are visible throughout the city. The open-air Holocaust Museum has a few thousand of blank grey columns that visitors walk through on a slope. The columns resemble unmarked grave stones and the feeling is intentionally eerie and uncomfortable. The point of visiting this museum is not to marvel at its beauty, but to reflect on the past and to be reminded of the struggles European Jews faced under Nazi occupation. When visiting the museum, some tourists have been criticized for disrespectful behavior such as public drunkenness and holding photoshoots at a place that should otherwise be reserved for contemplation.

On a lighter note, Berlin’s vast territory offers plenty for lovers of nature. It is flat and easily walkable and bike-friendly. Each district has well-maintained parks full of greenery and bike lines. No trip to Berlin is complete without visiting the Berlin zoo in the Tiergarten. You can spend hours here. Dating back to the mid 19th century, it is one of the world’s oldest surviving zoos. There are over 1,500 species and 20,000 animals, including orangutans and giant panda bears.

The three modes of public transport are the U-Bahn metro system, the S-Bahn that mainly runs above the ground and urban streetcars. The U-Bahn runs 24/7 all week and is very convenient. Despite this, the city is very spread out and distances in Berlin are wide. It could take over an hour just on public transport to get from a spot in the east to the western edges of the city. Taxis and Ubers are available too, but they are both on the pricier side.

Berlin is notorious for its wild nightlife. Lovers of techno music have can choose among countless nightclubs where anything goes. Nightclubs in Berlin push the envelope. At places such as Barghaim and KitKat club, the party starts on Friday night and does not end until Monday. Some partygoers spend consecutive days there and walk out looking like zombies. For people like myself, who prefer more relaxed evening plans there are many low-key bars for a pint. German beer comes in many varieties, and here you can try typical pilsners, Witbier or the sour Berliner Weisse. For a more no-frills experience, you can grab a beer from the fridge of a spatti corner store and enjoy drinks with friends right there. There is a tiny service charge for chairs and a table and it is a common way that those on a budget to socialize.

Germany does not have a tipping culture, so don’t expect outstanding service. There is overall consensus that Berliners are straightforward and may seem rude to many first-time visitors. In Berlin, and especially the eastern parts, the attitude is one of anti-establishment and is devoid of over-politeness and fake courtesy. People also tend to have a unique sense of style inspired by counterculture and designer brands are almost unheard of. You can literally have the most unusual hairstyle or outfit on without anyone batting an eye. What may seem intimidating or ‘weird’ to more conventional tourists is quite mundane for Berliners.

Living in Berlin was an interesting experience. During my three-month stay I lived in the trendy northeastern Prenzlaurberg district. Through gentrification, it became a desirable place for professionals and young families to live. Lack of German knowledge was not a significant barrier and I also got to make several international friends through the Nomaden Berlin program. During the winter months, Berlin can also get very dreary, gray and cold. I eventually decided that perhaps I just wasn’t cool or edgy enough to fit in the Berlin lifestyle and moved on.

It is easy to see why visiting (or living) Berlin appeals to many. For modern history buffs, students and heavy partying, there is no shortage of activities on offer. For tourists seeking a less international and more traditionally ‘German’ experience, perhaps the southern region of Bavaria and the city Munich is more representative of the local culture.

Berlin, Germany Pros:

· Nightlife and hedonistic way of life

· Modern History

· English is widely spoken

· Affordable by Northern Europe standards

· Great public transport

Berlin, Germany Cons:

· Cold winter months

· Intimidating Berliner attitude

Berlin: Crossroads and Counterculture