São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro: The Two Rhythmically Different Pulses of Brazil

Brazil is one exciting travel destination that had been on my radar to visit for a long time. In Summer 2024, I took advantage of having several weeks off while I was living in Colombia and visiting Peru and spent an entire month in Brazil.

In the past, the idea of visiting Brazil solo seemed intimidating. Most of my hesitation came from language barrier and safety concerns, as well as flight distance and general inaccessibility.

Urca Mountain in Rio de Janeiro Views

Rio Views from Urca Hill

It is a giant country that borders 10 counties; which is all countries in South America except Chile and Ecuador. The vast majority of the country lies below the equator, which means that seasons are reversed for those visiting from the northern hemisphere. June, July and August are winter months in Brazil. Given the enormous size of Brazil, there are vast differences in climate, gastronomy, biodiversity, demographics and culture across its five main regions.

International visitors are mostly likely to fly into the Southeast and spend most of their time there. That is where two of Brazil’s largest cities, São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, are found. Internal flights within Brazil are on the pricey side and there is no high-speed railway system. Planes are the only reasonable mode of travel for those hoping to explore Brazil’s different regions. My stay in Brazil was split between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

When I was contemplating my visit, Brazil was visa-free for Canadians (which had been changing on and off during that decade). I flew into São Paulo from Lima, Peru with Sky Airline. The journey took 5 hours with the worst low-cost company I have encountered during my travels. When flying within South America, avoid Sky Airline and choose LATAM or a national carrier instead. It is guaranteed to save you disappointment with customer service and knee pain in the long run.

São Paulo: South America’s Most Cosmopolitan City

When choosing a place to stay in São Paulo, there are several options. Many hotels are located in ‘El Centro’ or the ‘Centro Historico’ downtown core. Having done research in advance, I was advised to not book there as the area can be shady and dangerous at night. The best areas to stay include upscale Jardins, bohemian Pinheiros and Vila Madalena or Bela Vista, with its proximity to Paulista Avenue and nightlife spots.

Sao Paulo Art Deco Historical Center

Art-Deco Buildings in El Centro

There is no shortage of Airbnbs in São Paulo as well. My hotel was very reasonably priced and I thought having someone at the front desk would be safer and can help me navigate the city with my nonexistent language skills.

Arriving at São Paulo’s Guarulhos International Airport, it was about a 25-minute ride to my hotel in Bela Vista. Upon landing, there are ATM machines and money exchange counters inside the terminal. 1 USD was roughly 5 Brazilian Reals. I landed at 7 AM and thankfully did not have to wait too long in traffic. After all, São Paulo, as the largest city in Brazil and South America, is notorious for its traffic during peak hours.

Bela Vista Sao Paulo

Bela Vista

I booked my 2-week stay at the H3 Hotel Paulista for under $50 USD per night. While the lobby and common areas are a bit stuffy and dated, my room was large and comfortable. The staff were also pleasant and spoke great English, as well as Spanish. The hotel is on a residential street that is quite and safe in the evening.

The first thing I did upon check in after a long flight was look for a coffee. Brazilians value their cafezinhos and pastries, and there is no shortage of cafeterias in Bela Vista. Unlike your usual chain coffee, the cups are often small. It is not very common to get coffee to go. Brazilians sip on their coffee slowly, often accompanied by a pastel pie whose fillings range from cheese to shrimp. Deep fried croquettes known as Coxinha are also very popular as a snack, often with spiced chicken on the inside. You don’t need to go anywhere fancy for a coffee fix. Even neighborhood corner stores have a cafeteria or luncheonette section with coffee and pastries, and some tables to enjoy it right there.

Coffee and Coxinha in Brazil

Brazil is the world’s largest coffee producer

Brazil was founded as a country of immigrants, and São Paulo is a prime example of this melting pot. The area of Bela Vista is primarily known as Little Italy. There are many family-run pizzerias and eateries that attract tourists from all over Brazil. My favorite was Cantina Mama Celeste, with many restaurants specializing in Mediterranean, Greek, Italian and Lebanese food on the adjacent blocks. Within Bela Vista, streets such as Rua Augusta and Frei Caneca have many bars and clubs that stay open until the early morning. It is always advisable to take taxis or an Uber when going out at night, and to never leave drinks out of sight. To avoid the hassle of getting a local SIM card, I already had an eSIM with enough data to navigate maps and request a ride. Uber in Brazil is safe and reliable. A typical trip within most points of interest in the city will typically cost less than $ 5 USD.

Bela Vista lies on the Southern tip of Avenida Paulista, the city’s main commercial avenue that stretches for at least 5 kilometers with giant buildings and malls lining up both sides of the boulevard. The street is very busy during daytime hours and on weekends. On Sundays, the street is closed off for pedestrians and rollerblading. Street performers entertain visitors, alongside pop-up stalls selling street food, antiques and other rare finds. It seems that most São Paulo residents, or Paulistanos, can be found enjoying their days off while strolling down Avenida Paulista. It is a massive street that showcases the city’s importance as the bustling commercial epicenter of the country. The shopping malls carry a mix of high-end foreign goods, as well as local chains. Given how large the Brazilian market is, with a population of over 200 million, there is no shortage of local companies that produce quality goods and outcompeting foreign chains. Import taxes are also high, so shop local when in Brazil.

Avenida Paulista Sao Paulo

Bustling Avenida Paulista

In addition to restaurants and shopping malls, one place to visit on Avenida Paulista is the Museum of São Paulo, or MASP. São Paulo is the undisputed cultural capital of Brazil, with over 80 museums. I went on a Tuesday when admission was totally free and the wait time to get in was reasonable. The modernist structure and its collection are not only famous within Brazil, but internationally as well. Here, there are masterpieces by Brazilian painters of different eras and styles, in addition to European works by the likes of Van Gogh, Botticelli and Renoir. The permanent collection is displayed creatively in one giant hall, with each piece hanging on transparent display case and allowing visitors to preview the paintings in the next row as they walk along the horizontal maze.

When on Avenida Paulista, you can head to the Sesc cultural building to enjoy views of the district from its rooftop café. However, if you could choose one spot to see São Paulo from above then it is the Farol Santander tower.

Located within the Centro Historico, the Farol Santander is a quintessentially Art Deco building that towers over dozens of other skyscrapers built in from the 1930s onward, as São Paulo was establishing itself as the economic powerhouse of the country and the continent. Tickets cost about 50 Reals or $10 dollars (depending on the day’s conversion rate). Here, you can ride the elevator up to the 26th floor café and observation deck. Once there, an endless sea of high-rises stretches below the deck in a 360-degree angle. It looks like thousands upon thousands on small Lego pieces assembled to form one giant concrete jungle. It is from rooftops like these where you confronted by the magnitude of the city that over 23 million people commute around and call home.

Sao Paulo Cityscape

The View from Farol Santander

Farol Santander Sao Paulo Skyscraper

A short walking distance from Farol Santander, you’ll find the elegant opera house. This cultural landmark, styled after Parisian theater houses, was erected back in 1911 and has attracted world-class stage performers, dancers and composers. The décor is opulent and aristocratic enough to rival a royal theater from Paris or Vienna. You can peek inside for free, but guided tours must be booked in advance in order to enter the main halls.

Mortadella at Mercado Municipal

The Famous Mortadella Sandwich

Another must-visit that appears on São Paulo’s guidebooks is the Mercado Municipal, another gem of European-style architecture. Here, hundreds of vendors compete for visitors’ attention.  Kiosks sell a variety of cured meats and cheese, seafood and fresh produce from across Brazil. Brazil’s eco-diversity produces hundreds of exotic fruit species that can be sampled under one roof at the Mercado Municipal. One common scam that tourists fall for is being offered fruit “for free” before being pressured to buy more at market up prices. It is best to ask for prices in advance. The main superstar of this market is the famous mortadella sandwich. Head upstairs and choose among the dozen or so restaurants offering this lunch specialty. The ingredients are very basic: mortadella sausage, Provolone cheese and mustard in a sliced baguette. Over time, the name Mercado Municipal became synonymous with the mortadella sandwich.

When all the concrete of São Paulo becomes intimidating, the giant Iberapuera offers a green refuge within the urban chaos. Complete with bike lanes, sports fields and a lake, it is where locals spend their days and evenings to escape the city and connect with nature. It is clean, safe and well lit. The climate in this part of Brazil is mild and subtropical, but heatwaves are common in the summer months. During my stay here, I had a light jacket on most days.

Within Iberapuera Park is where you will find one of the city’s most interesting museums, the Afro-Brazilian Museum. São Paulo alone has over 3 million inhabitants of African lineage. Along with the northern city of Salvador, it is the largest Afro community outside of Africa, with a history dating back to the transatlantic slave trade.

This vibrant ethnographic museum houses a collection of artefacts and costumes from both, Brazil and sub-Saharan Africa. It documents the traditions, beliefs and arts of the community’s ancestors as they settled in the new land, often combining Catholicism with African faiths. During this dark chapter of history, many were enslaved to work on sugar plantations as the natural riches of Brazil travelled back to Portugal at the height of its empire. Today, at least half of Brazilians identify as ‘Pardo’ and claim at least some African blood in their lineage.

Not far from Iberapuera is where you will find the leafy Pinheiros and Vila Madalena neighborhood. The most popular attraction here is the Beco de Batman or Batman Alley.

Street art and graffiti are common in São Paulo, and add a dash of color to an otherwise gray and gritty urban jungle. The eponymous side street was popularized in the 1980s with a mural depicting Batman and characters of the superhero franchise. Over time, the whole few blocks of the street became covered in street art combining comical and satirical murals, transforming the area into an outdoor public gallery. Along Batman alley, you will find small, independent cafes and concept stores, in addition to street vendors selling alternative lifestyle paraphernalia. The beer or ‘cerveja’ in Brazil is served ice-cold and popular local brands include Brahma and Skol. As with anywhere else in the world, craft beer has gained popularity, with artisanal breweries now serving more exclusive varieties.

Sao Paulo Batman Alley Street Art

Street Pop-up in Batman Alley

While enjoying a beer alone in Batman Alley, I was invited by locals to join them at their table and we ended up becoming friends and spending a few evenings exploring the city together. Brazilians are very open, friendly and gregarious people. They are genuinely hospitable and curious towards foreigners, and are always full of recommendations to make sure that you have a great time in their country. While very few Brazilians speak English, I also managed to improvise with my Spanish and a few words of Portuguese, creating a fusion of Portuñol. You can speak some Spanish and the locals will answer you in their own language with a common ground reached to hold a basic conversation. Brazilians are not shy. Displays of affection are not kept indoors and you will be greeted with hugs and kisses. Those with a strict concept of personal space will find it difficult in social situations.

São Paulo’s diverse makeup of ethnicities makes it a prime culinary spot in South America. The sushi here can be as good as in Japan or Vancouver. The neighborhood of Liberdade is home to São Paulo’s Japanese community that immigrated here in the early 20th century. There are over 2 million Japanese Brazilians, making it the largest diaspora outside of Japan.

The Entrance to Liberdade

Liberdade begins with a large red Japanese gate and the architectural style is maintained through the neighborhood, with lamp posts and an oriental garden. There are many shops selling Japanese-made goods, from artisanal products and kimonos to manga and anime specialty stores. There are also Asian grocery stores, bubble tea shops and bakeries and many Japanese restaurants. São Paulo’s well-connected line features a stop at Liberdade, making it a very accessible spot to walk around and spend the day in. The best time to visit is on a weekday. There is a popular street fair on Saturdays and Sundays, but the area gets extremely crowded.

There is also a sizeable Korean population in the Bom Retiro neighborhood, where you will find Korean supermarkets and restaurants. The area is also famous for its more affordable clothing and wholesale clothing. It is a full shopping district where manufacturers and local designers sell directly to customers. The denim and shoes in Brazil are particularly famous worldwide for their quality, and you are guaranteed to find great Made-in-Brazil clothes in Bom Retiro.

Bom Retiro begins at the Luz Railway station. The building dates back to the 19th century and connects São Paulo to the port city of Santos. It was built by a British architect, which is evident in the architectural style. There is a Big-Ben lookalike clock tower hovering over the station. Within Luz Station, you will find the Portuguese Language Museum that is also free to visit. There are three levels of interactive displays that focus on linguistic families around the world and the evolution of the Portuguese Language. Brazil is the world’s largest Portuguese-speaking country and differs significantly in dialect from its European cousin. An additional 30 million Africans speak Portuguese as a native language, primarily in the former colonies of Angola and Mozambique, with additional communities spread out over the world.

Bom Retiro’s Pinacoteca is Brazil’s oldest museum and is considered to be the city’s prettiest. The building resembles an Italian palazzo. It consists of three floors and internal courtyards. Visits are free on Saturday, and here you can find selected artworks from the 19th century and contemporary art installations. It takes a few hours to complete the tour of the museum and the adjacent park.

São Paulo is a haven for Italian, Lebanese, Asian and international cuisine. For those in the mood for a more local dining experience, a Brazilian steak house or churrascaria is a carnivore’s dream. As soon as you are seated, you are offered meat from the waiters fresh off the skewers. There are at last 8-10 different varieties of grilled meat cuts from beef, pork and chicken. Every table comes with a cardholder or large wooden chips in green and red. As long as you have the color green up, the food skewers keep coming to your table. To take a break, turn up the red color. In addition to all-you-can barbecued meat, churrascarias also have a buffet of side dishes, vegetables, cold cuts and cheeses, sushi and seafood, as well as cakes for desert. The more upscale the establishment, the wider the variety of the meats and buffet. One such place that I visited more than once is Bovinu’s in upscale Pinheiros. The buffet was less than 200 Reals (about 40 dollars) per person and the service was excellent. Tipping culture is not common in Brazil and a 10% service fee will already be added to the bill. When taking taxis, tipping is not expected either – as long as you round up your fare or leave 10% if you feel compelled to.

After two full weeks in São Paulo, I was excited to continue onto my next destination. São Paulo is often overlooked by international travelers in favor of Rio, or merely used as a quick transit stop. For first timers, the city might be overwhelming. The enormous size, lack of an ocean and natural attractions, as well as language barriers and high crime rate might be off putting to those visiting from outside Brazil. When looking at Brazil tourist guidebooks, it is mostly Rio that is featured on the cover and without much acknowledgement to São Paulo. São Paulo is a utilitarian urban metropolis. At a first glance, it might not be the prettiest city in the world, but it makes up for it in terms of cultural attractions, dining experiences and nightlife options and the business opportunities that attract millions from across Brazil and the entire world.

From São Paulo to Rio, there are dozens or daily flights and bus departures. I chose to travel by bus, which is a comfortable 6-hour ride from Tietê to Rodoviário Novo Rio station for less than $15 USD. One hassle I encountered was buying my ticket online. Local bus booking sites require a CPF or local residency number, which is not given to tourists. I also had this issue when trying to get a local SIM card and even at a self-service laundromat. This is one major inconvenience to be aware of prior to coming to Brazil as a tourist. In the end, I was able to book my bus ticket with an international vendor that did not require a CPF number. The busses are roomy and the journey was smooth, while making a 30-minute stop on our way for lunch.

Rio de Janeiro: The Marvelous City

As soon as you arrive in Rio from São Paulo, the temperature rises by a few degrees.

Rio de Janeiro City View from Santa Teresa

Rio de Janeiro is also known as ‘The City of God’

I booked my first 2 nights at the L’Homme de Rio Boutique Hotel in the Ipanema district for about $75 USD per night. After climbing up a never-ending set of stairs to reach reception, I was eventually rewarded by the views from the rooftop. To say that the view from the bar deck is otherworldly is an understatement. Nestled on a hill, the huge terrace comes with a pool and overlooks Copacabana neighborhood and beach to the left as well as Ipanema neighborhood and beach to the right side. L’Homme de Rio offers some of the best, if not absolute best, views anywhere I’ve stayed before as you can clearly see the ocean and cityscape from above.

L’Homme de Rio has a vintage villa feel about it. The décor is very cozy and eclectic with touches of art deco. My room was very specious. I also had own balcony that offered a panoramic view. I would suggest that anyone who comes to Rio stay here for a few days. The only downside to this little hidden gem is the steep set of stairs uphill, which can be problematic for those travelling with luggage. It is also difficult to get an Uber for pickups and drop-offs. The surrounding streets are very narrow and it is located adjacent to a ‘favela’ or shantytown. Some drivers were apprehensive about making the trip up and I each time I made an Uber booking, I would get at least 3 cancellations.

In Brazil, the rich and poor live side by side

Ipanema and Copacabana are two of the world’s most famous beaches and are connected by a long stretch of boardwalk. The urban beaches are lined with a mix of premium and luxury hotel as well as residential building towers. This is the prime spot for a stroll and people watching during daytime and evening hours. Each 50-100 meters there are restaurant and bar kiosks. Street vendors also sell art, bathing suits and jewelry along the boardwalk.

As soon as the name Rio de Janeiro comes up, two things come to mind right away: carnaval and praia (beach). The city of over 12 million residents loves to throw a party. Each year in February, the spirit of carnaval fills the city. The streets overflow with partygoers and professional dancers train all year for the annual parade in colorful samba costumes and on extravagant flotillas to millions of spectators. My visit did not coincide with carnaval, but I hope to come back for this extravaganza one day. One thing to keep in mind that February is summertime in Rio, and temperatures can reach as much as 40 degrees Celsius. Booking and preparation must also be made well in advance to avoid disappointment. Even during low season, there is no shortage of things to do and see in Rio de Janeiro.

The beaches are where most of the action takes place. It is not just about swimming and tanning. The beaches are the congregation point for Rio residents (or ‘Cariocas’ as they like to call themselves) and a center for all entertainment and social activities.

Copacabana Rio de Janeiro beach promenade

The Copacabana promenade stretches for 4 km

The most popular beaches are located in Southern Rio or Zona Sul, from Leme in the north to Leblon in the south.

Copacabana is the city’s most famous beach, followed closely by Ipanema.

Copacabana has the largest cross-section of Cariocas and foreigners alike. Young and old, rich and poor, skinny and large – Copacabana beach has everyone. Even on a winter day, the temperatures were above 20 degrees Celcuis and the waters of the Atlantic Ocean were warm enough to swim in. The beach is numbered by posts, where a kiosk attendant will offer you a seat and/or umbrella for about 10 Reals each. They will also give you a menu to order drinks and food from them. You can also skip this part and find a place to bring your canga and sit on the sand completely free. Instead of beach towels, Brazilians use a canga, which is a colorful thin sheet like a blanket.

Scores of vendors walk on the beach and will come up to you to offer beer, snacks, merchandise, fruit juices and cocktails. When on the beach, nothing beats a Caipirinha. This local specialty contains cachaça, a sugarcane liquor, mixed with lime juice and mint. Other varieties include strawberry, mango and (my favorite) maracuja passion fruit. A good cocktail right on the beach will not cost more than 20 Reals or $5 USD. What I enjoyed about hanging out on the beach is that prices are very reasonable and fair, and I did not encounter any scams there. You can actually get a whole green coconut with a straw for as little as $ 2 USD.

If Brazilians are generally very friendly people, then Cariocas are a whole next level of fun and friendliness. The attitude is very relaxed and nonjudgmental. They embrace their bodies in all shapes and sizes, and are known for their very skimpy bathing suits. There is no body shaming on the beaches of Rio, so leave your modesty and squeamishness at the door.

A 30-minute walk along the promenade from Copacabana, you’ll find its main rival, Ipanema Beach. Both beaches offer similar vibes, with the latter being younger and less touristy. The waves in Ipanema are also a bit stronger than in Copacabana. As you swim, you are immersed in views of the cityscape and the green mountains surrounding it. Apart from the fun and happy locals, what makes Rio beaches so special is the kilometers upon kilometers of uninterrupted light-yellow sand. Despite the massive size of the city, the beaches and water are very clean. Within Zona Sul, Lemme and Leblon have a more tranquil vibe. Lemme draws a large hippie crowd and Leblon (located in the wealthiest part of the city) is where you might spot a few local celebrities.

You can spend a whole day on Ipanema Beach

Brazil is a highly stratified society. Further south is where you’ll find the upmarket suburb of Barra de Tijuca. Before coming to Rio, some locals that I had met recommended that I stay in Barra since it is perceived as the safest part of the city. I booked one week at the Radisson Barra dee Tijuca.

This area was only developed in the past few decades to cater to upper middle classes as the favelas started creeping up closer to the neighborhoods of Zona Sul. The result was a sprawling commuter suburb tucked away from the chaos of the city. Barra is very car-centered area. It is connected to the main city by a metro line, but you will need to drive or Uber around Barra de Tijuca.

The beach on Barra de Tijuca is very spacious and spread out. The sand is white and the water is crystal blue. It is a good spot for surfing and beach volleyball. Apart from the beach, I often found myself feeling very bored in Barra de Tijuca as a solo traveler. I would not recommend staying here for first-time visitors. The energy there is very different from other parts of Rio and it feels like a Brazilian version of Dubai or Miami with multi-lane highways and giant glitzy malls.

One place that stood out for its quirk and charm was Ilha de Gigóa. It is a tiny inhabited island village within a marsh area. To get there, you can take a motorboat for less than a dollar. He fishing village is characterized by narrow lanes where the local fishing community lives, with small bars and restaurants scattered around. Here you can escape the city and get a taste of authentic Brazilian village life right inside Rio de Janeiro. Be sure to bring bug spray. Ilha de Gigóa is a swamp area and the mosquitos here bite without mercy.

One thing to note about Rio is that the majority of the population lives in working class neighborhoods and favelas. Movies such as City of God made tours of favelas popular among tourists. Brazilian slums suffer from neglect and occasional gang violence. These neighborhoods can be found all throughout the city, even bordering the upscale areas. I decided to not go on a favela tour. I find the concept of poverty tourism unappealing to me. The areas might not be particularly dangerous for visitors, but local residents may not appreciate tourists staring and filming as though they are in a safari. Still, there are many tour operators that do bring tourists there. Ideally, they are run by locals who actually live there and know the area well.

Other touristy things that I do recommend is taking the cable car up Pão de Açúcar or Sugar Loaf Mountain. 

For observation points, there are two main options: the Christ the Redeemer statue and Sugarloaf Mountain. As per recommendations, Sugarloaf Mountains is a more exciting experience and provides better views. Plus, you can see the Christ statue from below as it watches over Rio de Janeiro. I did not feel the need to visit the statue, given the mixed reviews I found online.

Rio de Janeiro Sugar Loaf Mountain cable car

Postcard Moments from Rio

Taking the world-famous scenic cable car up Sugarloaf Mountain costs around $40 USD. It is one of the pricier activities in Rio, but totally worth it. It makes two stops, with a lower observation deck on Morro Urca da Mountain. There is a jungle trail that is perfect for bird watching, and if you are lucky you might spot some monkeys in the trees. From there, you switch the cable car and continue to the peak of Sugar Loaf. Rio is often hailed as the most beautiful city in the world. As you take the cable car up, you come to the realization that you are indeed in the most beautiful city in the world. The juxtaposition of mountains, urban towers and Atlantic beaches is a scene out of a postcard. The best time to visit is earlier in the morning or towards sunset. You can catch the last bits of ocean mist as it clears, revealing the Marvelous City from a 360-degree angle atop Sugar Loaf Mountain.

Parque Henrique Lage Courtyard

A Palace in the Park

One free activity that nature loves will enjoy is the Henrique Lage Botanical Park. The site of a former sugarcane plantation was transformed to a public park with hiking trails along lush forests, fountains and benches to relax in a cool, shaded space. The centerpiece of the park is a plush mansion that was passed onto different owners from Rio’s aristocracy throughout the past centuries. Inside, there is a popular coffee shop overlooking a gorgeous old-fashioned courtyard. It is one of the most Instagrammed spots in the city.

There’s much more to Rio than beaches and natural parks. As the former capital of Brazil (before it was moved to Brasília in 1960), its historical center and downtown core rival any other world-class city.

Rio de Janeiro downtown historic center

Rio de Janeiro was Brazil’s capital until 1960

In addition to Christ the Redeemer statue, Rio’s most impressive structure is the city’s main Metropolitan Cathedral located downtown. The modernist building was modeled after Mayan pyramids and can host up to 20,000 worshippers. Inside, stained glass windows tower vertically. The colorful stained-glass windows intersect at the topic forming rectilinear shapes as stairways to heaven.

Not far from the main cathedral is Rio’s historic Cinelandia neighborhood. There are hundreds of colonial-era buildings and landmarks to discover. There is also notable French Beaux-Arts influence in the elegant street planning and finishing touches of the buildings. This style is most evident in Rio’s own Municipal Theater structure which sits in the middle of Cinelandia Square. If you don’t mind waiting in line, then head to the Colombo Bakery. Founded in the late 19th century, this local institution is still very much in operation today. Modelled after a Parisian bistro, it is the place where Rio’s high society hung out and entertained visitors. Confeitaria Colombo ranks as one of the 10 most beautiful cafes in the world.

Another place of epic beauty and flair is the Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading. The library houses the largest collection of Portuguese books outside of Portugal. The ornate, vintage arch-shaped wooden bookcases make it one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. It is like something straight out of Harry Potter, and entrance is completely free!

Two museums that I enjoyed visiting during my stay in Rio are the National History Museum and the Rio Museum of Art.

The National History Museum is located at the site of an old military fortress. The cannons used in warfare can still be seen in the central courtyard. The museum holds a collection of over 300,000 items from prehistoric times to the Portuguese Empire and modern-day Brazil. The most exciting hall is on the ground floor, with an exhibition dedicated to horse carriages.

At the Rio Museum of Art, there was a temporary exhibition dedicated to the Funk musical genre of Brazil. Funk in Brazil is different from the rest of the world and is also called Funk Carioca or Favela Funk and is influenced by both, Latin and African beat. The displays included sound and whimsical visuals. You can head up to the rooftop to observe the waterfront and look down at the Museum of Tomorrow, another Rio landmark themed on sustainability, from up above.

Don’t Skip Santa Teresa

My favorite neighborhood of Rio is not featured very often in travel books. Santa Teresa is a hilltop area that is reached by yellow tram. Once a very affluent part of Rio, many of its stylish villas today sit abandoned. With ongoing revitalization efforts, many artsy boutiques and galleries are popping up in this quiet gem right in the heart of the city. From Santa Teresa, walk down the hill and you’ll find yourself atop the Selarón Stairs, leading you down to the Lapa District.



Lapa Selaron Stairs

Lapa’s Crowded Sttira

Once a run-down and inconvenient part of town, Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón took it upon himself to redesign his street. He covered the stairs with tiles out of pocket and ones that he scavenged on construction sites throughout the city. When he ran out of money for his project, hundreds of tiles were donated to him from abroad. The stairs run through an inhabited neighborhood and attract thousands of tourists on any given. While a fun activity for those already in the area, I found the Selarón Stairs to be somewhat overhyped and overflowing with people taking pictures on their phones.

Lapa is a popular nightlife district. Here, locals head for happy hour after work and continue onto the many traditional salsa clubs to end the end. Brazilians are also massive football fans, and the bars overflow with fans to watch their favorite sports. Better yet, you can head to a stadium to watch a live game and absorb the infectious cheerful energy.

Rio’s historical center is just as impressive as its beaches. Sadly, the area is known for crime, so always be aware of surroundings. Visit Cinelandia during the day when people are in their offices (avoid Sundays) and head to Lapa in the evenings when bars and cafes are open.

When it comes to food in Rio, it is not quite as diverse and international as in São Paulo. The shopping malls and upmarket streets of Ipanema and Copacabana will have foreign and fusion cuisine, but Rio eateries tend to focus more on local dishes.

For authentic Brazilian food, head to my friend Anderson’s Estilo Carioca restaurant downtown. One thing that will surprise you about some Brazilian restaurants is that instead of aa set menu, you can customize your plate from many options and pay by weight.

You will love açaí

In addition to meat, Brazilian food is heavy on rice and beans. The national dish is Feijoada, a bean stew cooked with bacon, sausage and pork loin. Towards the end, it is mixed with tapioca starch from thee yuca plant and served with rice and greens.  

When the weather gets hot, açaí dessert. Derived from the Amazonian açaí berry, this frozen delicacy is mixed with Greek yogurt and typically topped with banana chunks. It is rich is antioxidants and is often praised as a healthier alternative to ice cream.

Both Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo are like day and night. One is an oceanfront breeze and the other is a giant concrete ode to Brazil’s economic might. In terms of beauty, Rio is a clear winner, but both cities offer no shortage of things to see and do. Beyond Brazil’s two largest cities, the world’s fifth largest country has plenty more to be discovered.

 

Brazilian Food

Frango Means Chicken in Portuguese

Brazil Pros:

·      Friendly Locals

·      Cultural Activities

·      Natural Beauty

·      Vast Territory with Variety

·      Affordable travel destination

You can customize your Caiprinha

Brazil Cons:

·      Statically High Crime Rates

·      Common Language Barrier

·      CPF Number Often Needed

·      Pricy Inbound and Internal Flights